altoncustomtech

If the coil isn't burnt then more than likely it is a failure at the point where the tinsel lead attaches to the coil wire. Unfortunately, unless you get really really lucky, a recone may well be the only course of action to repair it. You might mess with the tinsel lead connections on the terminals first just to verify with certainty that it's not on the easier to work on connections.

Damn man, that sucks. Though I am super glad to hear the enclosure is doing it's job correctly, or at least seemingly so.

They certainly are and I'm not looking for miracle answers either. I was just hoping to begin discussion about the subject since I'm fairly certain once the SLS's get installed the anemic bottom end of the full ranges and the troubled top end of those in midbass duty will only compound that issue. I do have to say that it's not real bad, not bad at all. I only notice it when the music information in that range is heavy in certain songs, otherwise the MLI's and FR88's blend quite seemlessly the rest of the time. I was just wondering if something with a little more cone area could help without ruining what the full ranges can do on the top end. I assumed 5" was a huge stretch to do much good in a full range application, though I would have thought 3-1/2" or 4" would still be alright as long as the drivers were actually on axis. Thanks for the reply Sean, I know you'll always shoot the answers straight, lol.

Damn, that's odd. I wonder if it's got a problem in the suspension. Does the cone move by hand any easier with it than the other two?

Yep, I'm on it. Between work and the kids it's taking a minute to get the prelims drawn up, lol.

I'll bet it's the center one isn't it. Nope, not likely your imagination. As I had mentioned when designing the enclosure for you it's possible for the sub(s) closest to the port opening to move a little funny, even unload when the other subs don't. It's not something that can be modeled either, at least not at our level with easily to attain/afford software. There might be some FEA or other high end software that could but I'm not even certain of that. That's why that loading wall/brace was in there, to try to prevent that from happening. Apparently it's either not large enough or isn't in the right spot, damnit.

Oh damn, the cheapest chip brushes I could find. I put it on thick and heavy, let it set up most of the way then hit it again until I got it good and thick. No brush strokes are evident afterward either and the amp rack has been suscepted to everything from firewood, tools, dogs, auto parts and other crap without any scratches, gouges or noticeable damage.

I'm not aware of any that are textureless, but I know the Rustoleum I got from Walmart has a weaker/lesser texture than the professionally applied brands like Rhinoliner and Herculiner. The Rustoleum has just enough texture to be able to feel and see it but that's about it. I got to thinking, it may also have to do with how it's applied. I brushed mine on both the amp rack and the enclosure. Most times it's either rolled or sprayed on.

Really hard to beat bed liner. I have it on my amp rack and enclosure in the Jimmy. It's super tough, can take tons of abuse and infinitely more so than paint alone ever could. It's also super easy to apply and not even expensive either.

Yes, that's all you have to do, carefully of course.

I'd be glad to help with a redesign for you if you like. Post up the maximum dimensions you have to work within and I'll make up multiple configurations and we'll see what will fit your goals the best.

^^ This exactly. The cross-sectional area of the port tube. Area for a circle is calculated as Pi * Radius squared. So the radius of a 4" tube is 2", 2 squared is simply 4, multiplied by 3.14 = 12.56 sqare inches. You would need a port diameter of roughly 6" to get near the 30 sqin minimum requirement for port area. 6" diameter is a 3" radius, 3 squared is 9, 9 multiplied by 3.14 = 28.26 sqare inches.

to the forum!

I did the same. Most of them were CFL's and I still saw a difference with the LED's. The biggest difference was replacing the 50watt per bulb GU10's in the big six bulb light in the kitchen with LED bulbs. Went from 300 watts worth to 42 and have more light than with the halogens as well. Ever since I was in high school I thought LED was the way to go for lighting. I should have started building and pushing on it back then, I might have been retired on my own island in Bora Bora or Belize by now, lol.

I've done the same thing and replaced almost every bulb in the house. Saw a difference in the electric bill the first month.

Yep.... been on call though so not much free time to delve into the numbers yet.... Maybe this weekend after the show....

I wouldn't use a "used" battery for anything and sure as hell wouldn't use one for an application like this one. I've also not had any luck with Odyssey batteries either, but that's not necessarily completely the brand's fault. I don't think the place I bought them from sold them to me in the condition they claimed them to be in. Brand aside, for an application like this I wouldn't trust a used battery, plain and simple, but that's just me.

So which drivers were they? I'm going to say it, cuz I know several people will think it.... "Imagine that, a genuine driver performing the intended job better than those "PA" drivers just like it's suggested all the time on here." lol Glad to hear the new purchase/drivers are making you happy!

It's that time of year again when our local university automotive department is putting on their annual car show. It falls on Nov. 1st this year and as always is open to anything and everything. There's a pretty good showing of cars every year (especially when the weather is decent) and wouldn't expect this year to be any different. I'm hoping to get a better showing of Car Audio related vehicles at the show this year. I'm trying to get everyone I can locally that's into the hobby to attend and I plan on having at least the Jimmy there if not both it and the van. It would be absolutely awesome to have some guys from the forum attend, especially anyone from Team IAK!

Damn that really sucks ass. I was really looking forward to meeting you and seeing what those Ethos can do. Maybe next year at Slamology or another show. Gotta take care of work so the bills can get paid and food is on the table though. That's much more important. Thanks for letting me know ahead of time.

Absolutely man, I'd love to help. I just need all the maximum dimensions and other particulars and I'll get something preliminary drawn up for ya.

Awesome!! Replacing that OLD gas too! lol Awesome to see it alive brother.

Thanks man, I appreciate that! Now I need to figure out a great reason to head out your direction....... hmmm

Yeah, it's not the BEST prices, but with the constant updates on stock status and prices it makes it easier to catch a decent deal. Especially for someone like me who is just starting to assemble my arsenal and who doesn't visit the local stores on a regular basis. A few extra dollars for the convenience doesn't bother me. I was also never in the habit of buying anything back when you could get a 500+ round brick for about $10. So the prices aren't bothering me any cuz I don't have a prior reference.