altoncustomtech

It probably just needs a new battery. I had one and replaced one for some lady once that the internal bussing or whatever ties the cells together gets a bad connection or goes bad. No charger and no amount of jumping would work. Tossed in a new battery and everything was copesetic. At least borrow a battery to be sure.

The wife is at the store and the kids are owning the TV at the moment, so until the wife gets back I'll be in here.... lol

Awesome to see the variety! I used to use the same Bondo body filler too until I discovered Half-Time and for this stuff I doubt I'll ever use anything else again. Far quicker to sand and better finish than I ever got using the Bondo.

Do you know if there's a battery isolator being used? If it's not a good one and connected correctly there could easily be a .7vdc or more drop between the batteries. Otherwise I agree with the others and there has to be a connection issue somewhere.

Jumping in for a little bit before dinner....

Well, here's the result, just about what I had thought it was. Absolutely no testing, no preparation, hell I wasn't even completely sure where and how to put the sensor on the windshield. I stuck it up on the passenger side of the windshield just a few inches from the A pillar and a few inches from the top and went at it with music only (Thanks to Chop for pointing out where to find some different stuff to download) and the truck all sealed up. The wild thing that you can't see in the picture (the device can probably show it, dunno) is that it was pretty damn flat across the board with the real time level and frequency showing me I was still hitting 129.9 at 28hz and I saw 129.5 at 36hz too. Can't wait for my Omni mic to get here so I can see what the frequency response looks like overall. This is going to be a fun little toy.

That's awesome. The XCON is a 10 and with the PR setup and tuning I'm not expecting it to be too high at all.

I apologize ahead of time to everyone behind the APM-1 and to Sean with the SPL Labs equipment. Any news of the APM hadn't hit yet when I pre-ordered it so I couldn't even consider it into my decision and when I weighed the cost, accessories, features, etc. with the SPL Labs meters I just felt I was getting the better piece of equipment with the new Magnum setup. I would love to have supported the companies closer to me but it's a good deal of money no matter the option and I simply wanted to make sure I got everything I could because this is going to be the only time I will buy one. With the expansion capabilities, the fact the RTA software is now included, and other such factors it just seemed like for a one and only shot at getting one, the best option for me. That out of the way, my brand new TermLab Magnum SPL meter arrived today. I'm looking forward to seeing just how quiet my van and Jimmy are. Just to get it in before anyone else's speculation I'm guessing the Jimmy will be in the 130-135dB neighborhood. Hopefully before the end of the day rolls around I'll know for sure. Onto a few pics....

I'll try this again... for anyone who's as bored as I am, come hang out....

to the forum!

The only one I have seen is the Clarion NX702. Unfortunately, like the CZ702, the active capabilities fall short of the Pioneer. Not horrible, but just not as powerful as it needs to be. I agree with the miniDSP recommendation. You can use it with whatever HU floats your boat on capabilities and have more processing power than you can imagine.

Look at the HELP topics in WinISD under entering new driver data. There is a specific order in which all the T/S parameters have to be entered in order for everything to calculate correctly. Follow that and you'll be golden with most drivers. The only ones I've not been able to enter following the provided directions were cheap or sketchy ones that had provided T/S specs that must have plain and simply been wrong. Also, watch out on the units, such as square centimeters vs. square millimeters for the Sd (cone area) as an example. If the default measurement unit doesn't match the manufacturers specs just click on the unit itself and it will cycle through the different available units for that parameter. Like anything else, it will take a few trips through the software to get used to how it works. As for M5, yeah he may come off a little prickish but that doesn't make anything he's been trying to get across to you any less correct. Have fun with it and when you're really ready to listen and learn we'll still be here to help.

I'm glad to hear you got it done! It's hard to believe the cost, time and trouble are worth it with sound deadening until you hear it for yourself. Which Pioneers did you end up using? I can't remember exactly but it seems like they were the TS-D1720's. Either way it sounds like you're enjoying them!

My bad on that one, the Maestro was the unit that worked for my Traverse, I wasn't thinking about the names being any different for other vehicles.

I don't want to sound condescending, but are you sure you're on the right website? I was able to pull up a 2008 Infiniti G37 with Coupe trims right on their homepage. I dunno for sure. Maybe I'm not seeing the car type right.

What year is it? Unless it's like a 2015 that they may just not have gotten support for it yet they're usually pretty good about covering anything that has controls on the wheel including lots of cars we don't see around here...

Aboslutely. There are multiple options from companies like Axxess and PAC but the easiest I've used yet was the iDatalink Maestro. It's a little more expensive but you can custom program the buttons, special functions on the buttons, and it's programmed by downloading the configuration to it from your computer. Just my .02

For anyone who might be interested and as bored as I am right now.... lol

Your posts say that you don't. VERY clearly.dude, i may not have a technical knowledge such as yourself. as you seem to know alot about this. what I'm wanting to know now is, how do you know what won't work if you've never tried it? is it just because your learnings say different, or because an app says that it won't work? i enjoy learning more when I'm trying different things. i don't understand how let's say a 12 can be any better than what I've gotten out of them. i could almost flip a quarter on the roof of my vw fox with 1 12 in a bandpass in the trunk, I'd say that's pretty good and i don't see how it could be any harder except with more power as that one only had around 400watts goin to it. it was a 600rms sub if i remember correctly. There are a number of fundamentals about speakers, acoustics, and their interaction with the environment they are playing in that tell a person who is well educated in the field whether or not a particular plan is even worth pursuing. That is the reference that many of the members responding in your post are going by when they say something won't work. Now, that being said, what sounds good and works satisfactorily for you may not sound good and work satisfactorily for anyone else. That also doesn't mean that your reference (i.e. the other systems you've listened and compared yours to) were or were not on the level either. All they're trying to say is that, due to how you've done your builds in the past, there's a VERY strong probability that a proper design for the driver(s) you used would have netted better results. like I've said, the bottom line is that I've never had a sub box that didn't sound good or hit hard. and I'm not ignorant to the potential of subs, i know when a sub isn't reaching it's full potential. so how could they be better if they are hitting hard and sounding good? by making sure they utilize the exact air space? I'm sure they where though, or else they wouldn't have sounded good, right? Again, sounding good and hitting hard to suit your personal preferences is not an exact measurement and the beat all end all answer, necessarily. Through your experimenting you may have found the sweet spot for your goals however that sound may not please everyone or through testing with equipment more output could have been gained by building differently. granted, i do not know as much as you about the correct spec building method, but i know how to measure a box and say, well that's 4cubes it's too much and back it down. I'm not just blindly throwing pieces of wood in a pile, squirting glue all over it and callin it a box! i do add some screws too! seriously though, if i make the port longer then it calls for, what's gonna happen exactly with the sound or feel of the bass? am i going to diminish the quality or the feel of it? i assumed it would sustain the notes longer. again this is me experimenting and just because you say it's not good isn't going to stop me from trying. Making the port longer changes the tuning and overall response of the enclosure. The exact effect it has on the sound can easily be calculated through the use of modeling software or good old hand calculations too. Without knowing all the specs of the driver, the enclosure, etc. there's no way to guess and know if it will diminish the quality or help it, diminish the output or help it, or anything else blindly like that. There's nothing wrong with experimenting and testing, but you can't generalize statements about past experiences applied to new builds and assume that everything you've done has been right and that everything to that has been said by the members of this forum to the contrary is wrong. you can build boxes to spec all day long and assume that something different isn't going to be good. but until you try and see for yourself, it's always just an assumption. That is precisely why modeling software exists. By modeling the driver in the different enclosures the assumptions are removed from the equation. However it does take some experience to understand exactly what the modeling tells you which is where doing the modeling coupled with the experimentation like you're doing/have done makes for a good education. I don't think anyone is saying that EVERYTHING you've done in the past is COMPLETELY wrong. The way you've done it may not have been the most efficient, and the way you've applied it over the years seems (from many of your responses) to have been misguided, but that doesn't mean anything moving forward from here. I can speak from experience that when everything you've been taught by others and learned on your own is suddenly found to be either wrong or questionable is a really hard pill to swallow. Sometimes the tact used by others to try to explain the things that are wrong isn't the best and it comes across aggressive or calloused but that doesn't make it any less correct. Everyone here only wants to help. If you're not ready to follow their suggestions or really learn about what they're saying that's fine but don't get defensive about it blasting back with information about how what you've done in the past worked and sounded so good to you. As I mentioned, sounding and working good for your goals is great, but that doesn't mean it absolutely couldn't have sounded better or gotten louder. Accepting that and opening your mind to really learning all the other possibilities will provide huge gains for your personal advancement in this hobby.

Damn I sure wish I had the funds to spare at the moment, I'd pick it up and hang onto it for a rainy day.

to the forum!!

AWESOME!! Congratulations brother!!!

Awesome, nothing like goodies for the ride! Greenfield, neato, lol. I've only ever driven through on the interstate, never been to the area for any length of time so I don't know anything about it. There's nothing but fields and coal mines around here, but if you ever have a reason to come down to Knox County (or nearby) look me up!

Something sounds a little off to me that the subsonic is affecting the signal as soon as you start to turn it up. Even so, if you built the enclosure exactly as the designated design calls for then it should be right. The thing to do is start to play a tone at about 25 to 27hz and turn it up enough to get the sub moving as good as you safely can. Then turn the subsonic up until you see about half the movement you did before you adjusted the subsonic. That will have the subsonic set where it should be. I just noticed you're a fellow Hoosier. Where you at in this state?

Yeah I have four kids, then all their friends play too. Plus we've bought most of the texture packs too. Huge elaborate buildings and underground mazes and all sorts of things I can't begin to keep up with. Some games allow you to use external storage and some don't. I hate to hear that this one wouldn't let you.