altoncustomtech

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My guess, temperature. Traveling down the road you're cooling things off under the hood. Once you're parked and sitting everything under the hood heats up, including the alternator, and it's efficiency is reduced. Just my thoughts, probably way off though.

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pretty sure they wont fit but worth looking in to both boxes list mounting depth at 5.375"and that's exactly what the DCON is i was thinking the dcons have pole vents. so they would need another 1/2-1 inch behind the motor. The old ones did, the new ones have a solid rear plate now. Though I'm still not sure I'd use them if there's not at least a little bit of clearance to keep the motor from hitting the enclosure wall in case of flex.

We have it. My sons and future son in law play it quite a bit.

I've heard stories like this before... That's why I always call first with OCS. I ordered an item that happened to be out of stock (not listed as so on the website). After a week of not seeing any movement on the order I called and they told me it was out of stock and would ship as soon as it was back in stock, the time of which they said might be a week or so. Two weeks later I call again and I'm informed that it will be another two weeks. Two weeks later again I call and it's been discontinued and still had to call three more times to get money refunded and had to call and fight with them again because my refund was charged a restocking fee, go figure. I've ordered from them since because they had an item either at a price that no one else could match, or an item that wasn't in stock anywhere else, but like I said I ALWAYS call first and verify they have it in stock now.

You got a bad ground connection going on. Your best bet would be to go through EVERY connection on the positives as well as the grounds from the battery to the amp and make sure they're all tight, clean and in perfect shape or next time it's liable to burn up more than just the ground wire.

Love Sonicelectronix myself. I primarily order most all of my HU's from them for the reasons mentioned above along with the great prices. Only hiccup I ever had was being sent an incorrect wiring harness (one of those years of vehicle where they changed things in the middle of the production year, they couldn't have known) which they took care super fast with no problems what so ever. I've also ordered from Online Car Stereo before too. Only problem I have with them is that they don't keep track of their stock status online as fast as SE does. I always call first with OCS but have never had to worry about it with SE.

Happy Birthday Brother!!

Awesome!! I almost went with mirrors on the enclosure in the Jimmy.

With an SMD AD-1 too I venture to guess? Trust us, you've made the right decision to look elsewhere for your amplification needs.

The question ultimately boils down to what your maximum dimensions are. Like I said, I would use all the possible available space I could for the port, personally. If the dimensions you've indicated above are your maximum dimensions then you're going to be stuck with about 31sqin of port area. You're not going to gain anything useful by making the NET volume of the enclosure smaller to try to gain port area inside those dimensions either.

There's a lot of things that have to go wrong at one time to set any sub on fire. The Fi subs aren't built any differently than any other sub and are no more prone to blazing up than anything else. As for the build times, it's a custom built product that's literally machined from raw materials when you order it. It's hard to imagine any way to make it faster that wouldn't result in unneeded overhead sitting on the shelves in products that aren't being used that wouldn't result in the prices for the products having to be raised. It's not ideal from a time standpoint but the way they do it allows them to offer a premium product at below premium prices. I guarantee if they priced their products the same way a mainstream company does no one would be buying their products. Q is located near the Hammond/Covington area and if he has the time I'm sure he would be more than happy to demo something for you.

Personally I would give it as much as I can afford to give it the space for. Going back through the calculations, with the same 1200 watts of power and tuning even with 34sqin of port area the vent mach is under 15m/s which is still plenty acceptable.

Calculating it as if he would end up using the Q1200 and tuned to 34hz it would take 85sqin of port area to get the vent mach down to 5m/s which is well below the threshold for any audible noise or port compression. That should be good enough to be considered a practical maximum.

That wiring scheme you described is just parallel wiring, so no the amp will see a 1 ohm final load. Yes, if you had a two channel amp and wired one coil to each channel then yes, each channel would see a two ohm load. That's not currently what you're using on it though so that scenario isn't really relative anyway.

It's a dual 2 ohm sub, physically impossible to wire it to 2 ohms. Sorry

to the forum! I'm not sure if anyone knows if that's a statement or a question. Either way without any more information that that it's hard to comment.

Hence the reason that so many people can't understand where he's coming from most of the time... Leagues ahead of the vast majority of members on this site and the reason why he is such an asset. At least in my opinion.

Woohoo! I'm online, can't do much else....

to the forum!!

Bored and waiting on the next step of preparing dinner.... anyone who's interested I'll be in there and around...

They still overlap, the crossover setting isn't a brick wall. The frequencies roll off, like rolling down a hill, above/below the frequency it's set to. How steep that hill is depends on the slope of the crossover and that determines how many dB's the response is down each octave (doubling/halving of the frequency it's set to). Take your sub for instance, at 80hz with say a -12dB slope the frequencies would be down -12dB @ 160hz. Which means the sub is playing 100hz quite audibly as it would only be down -3dB. The higher the frequencies the higher the overlap because an octave covers many more frequencies. It may not be that far off, I've never had an opportunity to put a handheld Decibel meter next to a TL or similar SPL meter and compare them. Too bad you didn't live close I'd have you come over and we'd meter it and go over everything.

What is your LPF set to on your subwoofer's amp? You may have it lower than the frequencies you're expecting to be hearing, though they probably shouldn't be in the realm of where the sub should be required to play. Another question is what the HPF is set to (if using one) on your front stage. They could not be playing low enough to cover the frequencies that are missing. Otherwise, the sub may just not excel at frequencies that aren't considered "sub-bass" A subwoofer, as indicated by it's namesake, is designed to play "sub" bass frequencies. Generally speaking that's in the 40 to 50ish hz range and down, the exact numbers always seem to up for debate. A woofer overlaps some of those frequencies and plays into the midbass/lower midrange frequencies, say 40 to 50ish up to around 500 to 600ish hz. That's where mid range frequencies begin to pick up and somewhere in the 4kish neighborhood is where the tweeter would ideally be playing. Again all those numbers are debatable but the point is that a subwoofer isn't supposed to play but a very small range of frequencies by comparison to the rest of the system. I think I calculated the percentages at something like .2% of the general audio spectrum (20hz to 20,000hz) is considered sub bass and when most people set their LPF crossovers in the 60-80hz range that's only .3%. Everything else can't really even be played by a subwoofer. That's why I said the front stage needs to be looked at. If the sub is lacking the output you expect in the "high" bass frequencies then a smaller, preferrably more front located driver should be picking those frequencies up. Proper installation including a solid mounting baffle and sound deadening at a MINIMUM is how the most possible performance is used from the speakers in the front stage. Now, if the lackluster upper bass frequencies aren't bothering you bad enough to do the work and spend the money required to maximize what you have then that's okay. Everyone has their own listening tastes and goals, I'm just trying to provide you with good information on the possibilities and reasons why the response is the way it is and give you some food for thought on the what and why of how to go about making it better. Your enclosure may be the issue. Knowing exactly what it's tuned to would be the best place to start. Sure, you may have an idea but the only way to know for sure is to play tones and watch the excursion of the sub. The sub will move the absolute least amount at the tuning frequency. Start at something like 45hz and turn the volume up enough to get it moving good then go down in single increments of frequency until you see the sub move the least amount. You may have to go up and down a few hertz around the tuning frequency to best determine movement but you'll have your answer. Really low tuning generally results in reduced upper bass response, its just an avoidable tradeoff. You can raise the current tuning frequency a few hertz to experiment and see if a slight trade in a few hertz of low frequency response nets you the upper frequency response you desire. You could also try sealing the enclosure, though I don't think that just covering the ports will NET you 3cuft from 4.5, you're gonna have to fill the box with blocks of wood, bricks, or some kind of ballast. There's plenty of things to do and see what helps.

A meter like that isn't really ideal for measuring that, but for a quick reference I did a 131.1dB at 49hz with my single XCON 10" in an enclosure designed for flat SQ reproduction. It also did 129.9dB at 28hz and 129.5dB at 36hz all measured with a new TermLab meter which is built for the task. Not knowing the frequencies at which your response pleases and disappoints you makes it very hard to fix what's wrong. If the higher bass frequencies are lacking output then you might have to beef up your front stage to help with midbass response.