altoncustomtech

WOOOOOO-HOOOOOO!!!!!! I got my "used" SAX-125.2 to run the 6.5" PG RSD's in my Jimmy today. Thing is, I can't tell it's EVER been used. No scratches at all, no dings, hell I can't even find where it was ever even mounted (no scratches in paint at mounting locations). I ordered it direct from Jacob and all I can say is WOW, Jacob YOU ARE THE MAN! I never imagined I could buy something used that looks this much like it was never used and with a 1 year warranty to top it off. I can't wait to see the "used" SAZ-1500 I'll be getting with the SA-8's. On to a few pics. Tested twice, apprently it's nearly a year old. See, no sign of being screwed down and mounted. The other three locations are just as clean. Not a single scratch or ding on the top, and if you notice the white spot in the lower right of the picture it was just a spec. I brushed it off right after I noticed it in the picture. Here's the bottom scratch free as well. As you can see, Jacob sure treated me right on this one. THANK YOU MAN!!

Same here, I've spent ~$1820 on Sundown equipment myself. It's not everyday you get a "THANK YOU" direct from the owner of ANY company for helping make their business successful. This is another sign of the A+ class that is consistently shown by Sundown Audio and Jacob, and why us customers keep coming back for more.

I'm glad I could help! LOL I think it has more to do with the quality products and customer service than anything else. Keep on the excellent work and we'll keep on buying!!

X2... Why? Who really cares, it's a QUALITY product. If it only cost them 5 cents to build them, would you think the MAP price wasn't justifiable for the quality, performance and customer service? Besides, look at the mainstream brands, I can just about guarantee Fi isn't making the profit on their drivers that the mainstream companies are.

Looks like you may be doing your job too well, LOL! BTW, you should have an email from PayPal regarding the payment clearing for the 125.2 Thought I'd give you the heads up. Keep up the great work man!

Actually I must commend you on ACTUALLY EXPERIMENTING. 9 out of 10 times people are asked to try something they simply whine and ask on another forum and get bogus information. It's good to see someone trying so hard to figure out for themselves how/why/what really helps or hurts. While the methods left a little to be desired it still did what it needed to do and you learned from it. I think that you deserve a pat on the back for that.

I used to have one of these little meanies back in the day, the above information is 100% correct. Quite a current hungry amp though, very inefficient and if you run the load down on it it will get VERY hot as well. The guy I traded mine to melted the carpet on the amp rack around where it was mounted in his truck at 1 ohm. I'd also say that they seem quite underrated as well though I didn't have the ability to test output back then.

Wish I could have gone. Damn, I though I was the only one with a system infused mini-van. Glad to see another MV out there, gotta love how they turn heads. Glad to hear the show was good and that Sundown ruled the show!

Right now you can get a System Builder package from newegg for $104.99 for Home Premium, $139 for Professional, and $179 for Ultimate... That's a copy a Win 7 mind you

I didn't think the AP 3001D was 1 ohm stable x 1. I've always read it's 2000wrms x 1 into 2ohms OR 1500wrms x 2 into 1 ohm. Though I'm probably wrong.

no.... you have two dual 2 subs, that makes for a total 2 ohm load series/parallelled. If the amps are strapped to a 2 ohm load (the recommended lowest load) then each amp will see 1 ohm. Plain and simple, like bridging an amp, each channel see's half the nominal load.

Why not do two SAZ-1000D's strapped?

Look through the cooling vents where the cast frame meets the motor structure. The coil configuration and any options such as copper coil and BP will be written on the coil former.

Hi guys! It's been too cold to work on anything still, and this weekend we had better temps but the 'ol lady had me busy doing other things like buying and moving a new couch, cleaning up outside, etc. I did find some time to get the kids out to meet for the first time and let them play together a little, snapped a few pics during the play date. Sorry for the lack of quality in the pics though, stupid cell cam. I'm also pretty sure this is the first time I got a pic of both Q's at the same time. Hopefully the next time I post any pics it will be of the rebuild log.

I think it sounds like a GREAT plan!

Thats 13cuft total, plenty of room for a pair of 15's ported. I think 2 15" Dual 1 BL's in 7cuft (net) tuned to ~32hz would be fantastic for you. That will load that amp to 1 ohm, and give you some good power from it. Eventually you might want to consider upgrading the amp to a Sundown 3k, the new 2.5k when it comes out or something along those lines (a new Crescendo Audio 3KWP even). You'll have all the output you could want (I'd imagine) along with great sound.

Why in the world would you tune a BTL that high? Fi recommends 32hz as optimal, 30-35 is the best range, 40-45 is just way to high. A couple of Dual 1 BL's would be right up your alley IMO. SSD's would be great as well, but you could upgrade to a bigger amp down the road with the BL's over the SSD's. Now, whether or not you should go with 12's or 15's would depend on the room you're willing to use up. You'll need around 5-6+ cuft gross for a pair of twelves, 8-9+ cuft gross for a pair of 15's depending on tuning and port type.

What kind of 12's do you have? It could be that the box is not optimal for them and that's why they sound so bad.

That's a common myth. An 18 can sound just as tight and punchy as an 8, and an 8 can get loud and low like an 18. It's all in the installation and execution of the design of the system. 12's can get PLENTY loud, but in general 15's will get louder. As long as the enclosure is built and tuned correctly the subs will sound great no matter the size. Besides, moving into anything in the Fi line will most likely sound better than what you have now.

Where r u located, I've done lots of box mods like that, be glad to help you out if you were close. Also, what kind of depth do you have to work with? I believe most cast frame woofers have a 11.25" cutout diameter which opens the door to lots of drivers from lots of manufacturers.

This is about the best way to do it, follow along the edge of the baffle all the way around with a saw. Table would be most accurate, a circular saw would do IF you take your time. Also if you do this be sure to put the kerf of the saw on the baffle board NOT the rest of the box, otherwise you'll loose the amount of kerf of the blad from the total height of the enclosure. If you need a clearer idea of what I'm saying let me know, I'll draw a simple diagram.

You're correct about the cut-out (inside) hole, 7.25". The outside hole will be over 8.25" if you're going to use the gasket, go 8.5" or even 8.75" for that I'd imagine. On the countersink, how thick is your baffle going to be? I think most cast frame gaskets are about .5" tall, I"ll go measure my Q's real quick and let you know for sure.

I sure wouldn't try it. That's a quick way to smoke an amp. If you connect a 2 ohm load to that amp bridged, each channel would only see 1 ohm and it's definitely not designed for that.

thanks for the invite bro. chop You're welcome man, I got all this equipment lying around and most kids around here don't give a crap that things are set right. Most of them just turn it up to distort they way they want it to after I set everything for them anyway. It'd be nice to do it for someone who cared, lol. Hey Jacob, you got GPS on that ship? We could hi-jack a couple of tugs or another ship and tow it here faster?!? LOL

Thanks! I just might do that for some pointers. Hate to sound like an inconsiderate prick, but I do like doing my own work. I really appreciate the offer though. Like I said, I may give you a call for some info on the Plexi work. Looks like you really know your plexi well. X2 on the epoxy question, never heard of using epoxy before, though I can see where it would have the same benefits as resin with a little added flexability, maybe.