altoncustomtech

It would depend on your technical abilities as to how good it turns out, but it's perfectly possible. Check out Parts Express for terminals, it's a good place to start.

Pretty much my thoughts exactly. Whether it was copying or OEM building they look SUPER similar to Fi built subs, except they're asking a rediculously high price.

Much appreciated man! Have a great day Aaron, me and my kids are going to try to get the pool goin' today!

Bass boost is really ONLY so bad because it gets completely abused. The idea behind having bass boost is really just a selling point from days gone by. It was originally used to bring up bass frequencies that were almost non existent in the music of them olden days. Today's music is recorded much differently and the need for BB is just not there, but from a sales standpoint, if you didn't know ANYTHING about car audio (and lets face it, the majority of people out there really don't) and were shopping for amps. If amp A had a bass boost, and amp B didn't chances are you'd buy amp A cuz it seems better cuz it has more features.

I dunno if you've ever tuned a fully active system before, but it has to be done in that fashion. With the gains low, crossover, eq and level settings all have to be adjusted before setting the gains. Even then setting the gains is not done in the regular fashion either.

The subs look VERY similar to Fi Q's, SSD's, and DC's Level 5's. I dunno anything about them, but my personal opinion is that they look like copy cats.

Man I really hate to hear that. Thing is, you may still be in good shape as far as the doors go. As you said earlier it could of all happened during the testing/tuning phase. If you don't notice the cone's moving as though they're out of control (should hear it as well) then most likely the problem was a clipped signal or something along those lines during the test/tune period. I would guess that the amp you have and the Aura's are a great match and the doors are working well as the enclosures for them and that the damage was induced while making adjustments. I would repair/replace the one bad Aura, leave everything just as it is and try running everything again since you're very close to being dialed in, and see how it goes. If you run into problems again then you/we should go over the possible causes and solutions.

Not again.

Change would be bad, VERY bad. If it's a 4 ohm driver it should read around 3.xx ohms DC. No matter what it reads, it shouldn't change from moving the cone.

I'm of the opinion that the amp has a problem. If it just went from playing for awhile to cutting out immediately when you turn it up there has to be a real problem. I'd start looking for a bad spot in the speaker wires just to make absolutely sure there's no short anywhere for starters. (I know you did a fantastic job running everything in this build, but it's still worth a look) Otherwise, yeah the load could be a problem at high power levels but it still seems to me that the amp should be fine on impedance rise. If the impedance was falling out real low then I could see that being a problem, but rising shouldn't cause the amp to freak out IMO. That's why I think the amp may have an internal problem. On the other hand, an impedance matching circuit (I believe it's also known as a Zobel network) would be ideal to flatten the impedance curve, however I'm pretty sure it would require a little retuning AND the worst problem is that in order to build an IMC or Zobel to handle that kind of power requires some very large (high power handling) coil's and resistor's to handle several hundred watts and that could be expensive to build or even very hard to find the parts to handle 300+ watts. I dunno for sure, that's just how I see it.

The Alpine WILL NOT have factory warranty through EBAY. The Sundown however will have a full and transferrable warranty. My choice would be with the Sundown for that reason, among several others.

That poor thing deserves a 21 gun salute. Is it even repairable with that much burnt material coming from out of the motor? It died a horrible death, looks like it saw 480v.

Welcome to the forum!!

Welcome to the forum!!! Yeah where at in Indiana??

Welcome to the forum!!!

Why not look into the Crescendo 3k? Get a dual 1 BTL and run it at 2 ohms and have room for expansion later, or get a dual 2 run it at 1 ohm and have TONS of headroom on tap for that sub. Either way at $550 new it's not a bad choice and it's supposed to be built just like a Sundown SAZ3000.

Where you at Blak? There's lots of people on the forum, surely there would be someone fairly close to you with the tools and skillz to help you out.

That's just too cute man. Look at the smiles on their faces, they're having a BLAST.

I'm not sure what kind of terminals your rear battery has, but I have seen on SEVERAL occasions when someone used the standard top posts on a battery where the posts had some oxidation on them that they didn't clean before putting the terminals on which caused the connections to have problems within a day or two of the installation. Took the terminals off, cleaned the posts and terminals with a dremel brush and put them back on. Two guys I've helped with this I know are still bumping the same stuff today, one after about a year, the other has been running strong 3 years now.

OMG Jacob, I can't wait to see what the end result will be like. (assuming everything in the prototype testing works out to your goals) Everyone thinks the SA-8's are badass, these sound like the beat all/end all of the small subwoofer market. Good luck!!

Look at it like this. Having lots of problems gives you the opportunity to learn how to troubleshoot the problems, find the best way to repair the problems, and gain the knowledge and experience to avoid the same problems in the future. I know it sucks. I'm married, have 4 kids, and my 18yo little bro lives with us. I have VERY little spare $$$ for when things go bad.

I'll save Nick the trouble. Speakers are dumb, they do what you tell them to do. Sending it a clipped signal generates more heat in the coil than sending a little more than CLEAN rated power will. (open to debate I know, but I agree with it) You sent it a clipped signal, and you knew it, now it's blown. It sucks, I know, but if you get the signal problem fixed and get the sub reconed, you'll be better off than you were before.

Welcome to the forum man! Post some pics, I can read them better, LOL.

Good luck and God speed. Be careful over there and return home safe and unhurt. BTW, Thank you for what you're doing. I don't think you folks get all the credit you're due.

Unless someone else has any further questions I think you very clearly explained everything and that's exactly what I was hoping for. Until someone can really understand the reasons why anyone would go through so much trouble to tune a stereo system I don't think they can fully appreciate the difference it can make. I've seen it many times where people just crank everything up and think things are dandy and then I come along and change some settings for them and they flip out cuz they never thought it could sound that good, get louder, etc. Proper tuning is key for good sound even if SQ isn't the goal. I think anyone who reads your build log and then gets to the excellent summary and description of your time tuning and dialing everything in will appreciate the hard work you've done and perhaps spend a little more time themselves going through and checking settings, tuning and testing phasing to see what they may be able to do with their systems even if they're not as ellaborate or SQ oriented.