altoncustomtech

Sounds like you need help all the way around. Give us more info, what HU, what amp, what electrical, what's the specs on the enclosure? The more info you give us, the easier it will be to help you out.

I don't have any experience with that sub at all, but I would be concerned about it performing at it's best in that space. Fi's site recommends 3-5 cuft. the .2 cuft difference of 2.8 isn't that much smaller, though I'm not sure if the BL may have more or less displacement than the Chaos. If it has more displacement then the net air space will be even smaller than 2.8, if it has less then it will be even closer to 3cuft. Either way it is just outside of minimum specs. Hopefully someone with better experience can chime in with more info. Besides, unless you were putting 2 or 3x the power to the sub seems like you'd be looking for a larger enclosure for #'s anyway unless I'm thinking bass ackwards again.

What would you want for it in it's current condition?

I know I've seen plenty of people use spray/roll on bed linings for the outside of their enclosures and such. I am wondering two things though, was it applied to the bare MDF or with a primer on the MDF first and how well is it holding up after "x" amount of time? I'm about to start on the enclosure and amp rack for my Jimmy. I had planned to paint the port to match the truck and use standard charcoal colored cabinet carpet to cover the box and amp rack with. Though upon thinking about possible liquid damage to the MDF on the floor/amp rack I'll be building I thought perhaps the liquid bed liner may be the better route. I have no experience with it though so I was hoping that those of you who have used it before may be able to give me some pointers. Thanks in advance guys!

Thanks guys, and how is it holding up so far? No pealing, chipping or anything yet? I'm not worried about it covering imperfections, I planned on having the enclosure, floor and rack paint ready even when I planned on carpeting it which requires having almost all imperfections repaired. It will be handy if I don't have to primer it first, that will save some time and money!

For me, it's that I've always been a music fanatic. If I had any talent I'd probably be singing or playing an instrument in a band but sadly I have no talent for making music. However, I still LOVE to listen to it. I can't get away from car audio because I like to listen to my music on the same level in my vehicles as I do in my own house, both in loudness AND sound quality. I appreciate a "true as possible" reproduction of my music and with my vehicles it's not only nice to have that but a good amount of fun doing the work to get it. Not to mention that helping teach today's youth about right from wrong in car audio and how and why things work the way they do is fun and rewarding as well. Those are the reasons I can't get away from car audio.

Try a local auto shop such as Advance Auto, they're starting to stock more and more metric screws and bolts, they may have a good replacement available. I would try getting a tap and tapping it out another size bigger with new set screws. I wouldn't want to disturb the solder joints on that circuit board. Otherwise you might be better off sending in to db-r for repair.

You'll need a D2 sub wired in parallel for a final 1 ohm load. All 3 subs would perform great on your amp, personally if I was you I'd go with the SSD. You'll save a few $$$ and have plenty of headroom available which is a good thing. Phi's suggestion is a great one as well, running just one 15 ported would be a great option.

I would also like to add that after sound deadening and other such items get done that the OP may want to go through and double verify that all the speakers are either in phase OR go through the balance and fader to see if he does indeed have midbass from his speakers and needs to wire one out of phase due to cancellations he may be having when it reaches his ears. He mentioned that he had to turn his subs up to 250hz in order for it to sound good. That sounds to me like the rest of the speakers are either crossed over incorrectly and not able to play midbass frequencies or he has some MAD cancellation going on in that truck. Just my .02

I think it's a great idea. I saw a build log somewhere where a guy put a 15" or 18" sealed to the cabin with the aero's coming up through the rear deck like you're referring to doing. He used fiberglass and flushed them into the rear deck so it all looked integrated and turned out absolutely amazing looking, not to mention it was mean as hell. I'll look and see if I can find the build log and post up the link.

When it comes to disassembling something like a remote knob to integrate it into the interior for that one off custom look, it's almost ALWAYS possible. Now, that said, how good the end result functions and works will depend entirely on the person who is doing the work's patience, imagination and finally abilities to execute the job. I think integrating that knob into the dash is a great idea. With just those pics it's really hard to give a good recommendation on where to put it, I'm sure others will help there. I'm a BIG fan of one off custom work, I've seen IR remote integrations, screen integrations and several remote adjustment knob integrations over the years. Go for it man, it will be great.

I think a new basket and recone would be the best route for this. Use the money you should get from the USPS claim to repay the cost of the basket and recone, and have a little leftover maybe. If nothing else, even though it would suck having to spend more money on it, it would be worth repairing with a new basket and recone regardless of the outcome of the claim with USPS.

True, to perform at full potential, but on the same power it should be louder then the BL or Q. So if he already buys the btl he isn't going to change subs later, only amps. I love the "GO BIG, OR GO HOME" philosophy. I almost bought a BTL for the Jimmy instead of the SA-8's for that same reason. In all honesty, the reason I tried to talk him out of the BTL setup is simply because I'm affraid that once he starts down the road to a BTL he might decide to cut corners for cost, difficulty, or inpatience reasons. Then be either unhappy with the results or end up with broken equipment. The bigger the setup the more money AND time it takes to do it right, all of us with experience knows that. If he can get the enclosure built properly then the amp and electrical can come in time, true enough. My biggest concern is that like most younger people today (my little brother included) he'll not want to WAIT for things to run their course and everything be done correctly then be back on here asking why the sub blew or the amp fried. If he's in it for the long haul then I expect the results to be as fantastic as the rest of the great BTL installs I've seen. SAMZ, if you're sure you're ready then go for it.

Assuming you did your homework and ordered the first two SA-8's with D2 coils for a 2 ohm load now and a total 1 ohm load later when you ordered the other two, I think a SAZ-1500 would be your best choice.

For the same reasons I mentioned in your other thread about the BTL I think you should look into some lower powered subs. BTL's really need a stout amplifier to perform at their full potential and a stout amp REQUIRES stout electrical. Now, if this is a car you're sharing you really don't want to sink a ton of money into power wire, batteries and a HO alt just to get your own different car and possibly have to spend that money ALL OVER AGAIN to do the same for the new one. I think you should be looking at subs like the DCON, Daber Audio's, DC level 2's, IA 187's, maybe some SA-12's, something that doesn't require as much power to perform. That means less electrical to keep up with the amp and a cheaper amp too. I really believe this would be your best move. On turning the sub(s) off, if the HU doesn't have the ability built in then just put a simple switch in the remote wire to turn the amp on and off with. On the box, there's most likely someone from the forum nearby who could help you build one, or you can have one custom built by Argent or one of the other companies here.

Save some more and get the pre-order in or find a used or refurbished SAZ-2000 for sale by someone or at Db-r. Trust me, you'll be happier making sure you purchase something you know you'll be happy with as apposed to settling for what you have the money for at the time. EVERY time I settle for what I can afford at the time I've gotten burned by my choice and I try to help others not have to learn the hard way.

Kicker's Impluse series subs? I had a pair of those, did very very well for 150wrms... Wish they hadn't gotten stolen.

If this is your first system I'd recommend going much smaller to start out and get a feel for things. Going with subs like the SSA DCON or Incriminator 187 or the Daber Audio subs would require a MUCH smaller amp and all of these subs have proven themselves to be fantastic performing subs even though they're not real high power subs. Then, if you crave more you can work your way up to something like a pair of BTL's. BTL's, Mayhems and other high power high spl subs are different kinds of beasts. They need lots of power, which requires ALOT of electrical upgrades, expensive amps and enclosures built tough enuf to park a tank on. The amount of money you'd spend on the supporting systems for even 1 BTL, and do it the proper way, would surpass your imagination by the time you got done with an HO alt, batteries, power wires, installation gear, MDF etc. Thats not including the price of the amp or sub. I think you'd be surprised at what you could get out of some of the lower powered subs AND save some money to put toward other upgrades like sound deadening which would prepare your vehicle for the future upgrades. I remember when I was starting out, I wanted all the best stuff too. You younger guys have a great advantage starting out with all the information that's available on the Internet to guide you as well. For that matter I still want the best money can buy, but I still have to settle for what I can afford. I have to say though, that starting out on the bottom and slowly working my way up has taught me alot of things that can really only be learned from experience. Don't get me wrong on what I was saying up there, if you truly have the money, time, support, patience and will-power to do the BTL then by all means go for it, but since you're a beginner I think you'd be better off starting with a more forgiving setup.

It just wouldn't happen with them. But for my desktop I will definitely look into it. Thanks. I know your dad already ordered a new machine, but you'd be surprised at how fast and eays Ubuntu is to use. Julian is right. I installed it for my mom who plays alot of online games and gets TONS of spyware in her machine from it. Now with Ubuntu the machine runs faster than ever, she still has ALL of her usability on the machine, and she says the Ubuntu is ending up being easier to use than windows was so far. Just my .02

Kind of reminds me of Trans-Siberian Orchestra. Sounds pretty damn good to me.

I just got my wife a Nikon L20 for Valentine's day this year. I like these camera's for several reasons: 1. They run on standard AA batteries, alkaline or rechargeable's that's a great feature as you can get batteries anytime. 2. It uses a standard SD card, which is good because they can be used pretty much everywhere and in almost everything. (printers, picture kiosk's, etc.) 3. 10 (or 12) Megapixel camera, takes fantastic pictures that can be printed to very large sizes. 4. The camera is easy and intuitive to use, doesn't take a bachelor's degree to figure out all the features. 5. It has Anti-shake picture steady technology, so if you're not the most steady person (even bordering on palsy) you can still get great pictures. That's why this camera and most of the Nikon models are on my list of to get.

As the title states, I'm traveling up to Des Moines for some training for work tomorrow. If there's anyone in or nearby it would be great to meet you and see and hear your ride. If anyone's there or interested let me know. Sorry, won't be able to show off my van, will be in the company truck. Eight or nine hour drive one way with factory crap tunes.

Distortion is really more of a product of the amplification than the subwoofer. Harmonic distortions created from cone break up, power compression, etc. from subwoofers is never really heard as distortion in the sense of clipping an amplifier. I can say with great confidence that either sub will impress you, however, the woofer for you will surely be the BL. Yes, it is geared more toward SPL than the Q, but the sound you'll get from it IN THE PROPER ENCLOSURE will astound you and you will not be disappointed IMO.