altoncustomtech

I'm not into competing either, however, I think I have to agree that this information for the brothers ( & sisters) of IAK should be distributed by email only. Believe me when I say there's several good ways to open encrypted documents, and there's some software out there that while not particularly easy to come by, can make short work of most standard encryption methods. I'm all for inside Team secrets, that's one of the benefits of being a team/club member in the first place. I honestly believe though that any documents containing information that should be kept within the Team should not be made readily public. I'll send you an email shizzzon, even though I don't compete I'm still interested in what has been compiled, especially after that intriguing conversation we had about enclosure densities a while back.

That's not really what I was trying to say. If the sub is wired in series then you're good to go. I was wanting to make sure you KNOW for certain that the sub is wired series. Where the amp says it's parallel is only referring to the internal configuration of the terminals and has no effect on the wiring of your subs. Please DO NOT wire the sub to .5 ohm on purpose. A DMM is a digital multi-meter, used to test voltages, resistance, continuity and more depending on the unit. If you have a DMM you could connect it to the sub and verify for certain that you're wired in series.

Nah, I think you guys just like showing off, lol.

Holy ampified brown note Batman!! 48 of ANY size speaker is nuts, but 48 10" subs on 18,000 watts of power makes you guys down right commitable, lol.

You have the coils wired in series then? If it were wired in parallel instead that would present a .5 ohm load at the amp which SHOULD probably put the amp into protection and cause it to not play anything. Though that would really depend on the amp and how the protection circuitry is designed. Do you have a DMM? Also, have you checked both ends of your RCA's to verify they're still plugged in? (sounds silly, but I've seen it happen) Can you re-install your old amp and verify everything is working? There is ALWAYS a chance that the new one is bad out of the box. While it's VERY rare, it does happen.

Gonna ask a few silly sounding questions here to cover the basics. Are the RCA's plugged into the IN jacks and not the PASS THRU jacks? Where are the GAIN and LP knobs adjusted to? How are the speaker connections made at the speaker terminals? What is the coil configuration on the sub?

It's looking great! That black leather looks fantastic, should definitely set off the whole thing. Can't wait to see it finished and I still can't believe there's enough room across there to fit those 18's side by side with room to spare! Wild, just wild.

One thing that would help would be to give us what troubleshooting you have done so far. Is the amp powering up? Is it going into protect? Did you do anything to the wiring at the sub? Answering these questions and a few more like them can help us help you out, which we'll be glad to do whatever we can.

On another note take a look at this ->Problem blowing tweeters? Try this..... I'm not sure exactly what they do to help, but Bose, Phoenix Gold, Polk Audio and many other manufacturers use the same technique to protect the tweeters in their speaker systems. It could help save you from this problem in the future.

www.db-r.com This should get you rolling.

I agree, looks like it's shot. I'd recommend getting a hold of db-r and seeing if he can repair it for you, unless it's still under warranty.

nothing wrong with that, i wouldn't mind paying to be a beta tester. X2,000,000 I'd gladly pay to be a Sundown Audio BETA tester!!! I have a friend who is basically a BETA tester for Bowler Transmission. He helps them design specialized parts, cases and other crap then throws the tranny in one of his machines and puts the balls to the wall to see if it does what it's supposed to do. I'd do that for Sundown in a heartbeat. If for no other reason just to help spread the Sundown Audio name around here!

A thing of beauty. That's some incredible #'s for a 3.8L V6. I've seen a few hot ones around here but none are that hot. Anywhere near 500HP from any V6 isn't playin' around.

Well, glad to hear that it's working now. It's easier than a lot of people think to get a wire wrong when you have multiple, multiple voice coil subs, which is why it's mentioned almost every time someone posts a problem like this.

I'm tuned in just to see how you shoehorn those 18's into that thing.

I'd have to say my favorite amp was the first one I ever had, US Amps A50HC. A guy traded it to me for doing some repair work in my high school electronics class for him. I never did know it at the time, but that was one hell of a competition amp stable down to something like .25 ohms stereo. I did know that I could barely use the thing, installed in my 1970 chevy truck it could run the battery down even when I was flyin' down the highway (factory size 60 amp alt), used (what seemed at the time) way too much current. Burnt up 3 alternators and a few batteries as well while it was installed. The other funny thing about it was that it has the 4awg power wires soldered directly onto the circuit board which I still find odd. It drove anything I ever hooked up to it with authority, though not without getting hot enough at almost ANY ohm load to easily fry bacon on. I could still kick myself for trading it to a guy for 2 Profile A200XL amps. At the time I thought it was a hell of a deal cuz I was getting two for the one AND they didn't drain my electrical like the A50HC did, but you live and you learn. I put that amp through 9 kinds of hell, even had 10 house speakers hooked up to it at one time goofing off and it wouldn't slow down, just got hotter, lol.

It could be, but I don't think port unloading affects the sound through the entire played frequency range and generally causes problems like one sub to move further than the other and other weird happenings and then usually only under high power. Now that begs the question, are you noticing the bad sound at high volumes only or at any volume level? Are you seeing the subs moving in any other fashion than in unison? Someone with better knowledge of port unloading should chime in here, I'm limited in my experience and knowledge of the problem, though I was always under the notion that it isn't really a problem for most daily drivers.

EVERYTHING effects the response of the subs. The problems you're having though I still don't feel that the enclosure's higher tuning is fully to blame. I'd still like to know that you've double checked all the wiring on the subs and tested them with a small battery to verify they're both moving and moving in the same direction. If that's truly kosher then we should probably look at other potential problems, I say this because just having a box tuned to 38hz instead of 33 shouldn't make the sound absolute crap unless you were already used to a very good low tuned setup before this and are comparing the two, just MHO.

Welcome to the forum!!

From the quick calculations I had done It looks like you'd need about another 8" of port length to get the 33hz tune. Not something that can be easily performed on an existing enclosure, it would also reduce the internal volume to about the minimum specs Fi recommends for the those subs. DON'T quote me on that 8" either, that's just punching a few fast #'s in, to be dead on it would require much more precise figuring.

I don't think you can add the port displacement to the calculation, you have no idea what the displacement will be until you know all 3 dimensions of the port. You have to use the target volume when calculating.

Sounds like you got it figured out, looking forward to the build log on that 4th order.

That's about what I was coming up with. Another question, is the box perfectly sealed up, no air leaks? Air leaks in a ported enclosure can ruin the function of the enclosure VERY quickly.

2.8 is the smallest recomended enclosure. I think with 500 xtra watts rms it shouldn't make that much of a difference correct? Wouldn't the smaller airspace help control the cone? BL15: Displacement: 0.21cuft Chaos15: Driver Displacement 0.17 CF .04 difference shouldn't be a problem right? I got the 3-5 right from the website in the BL woofer's listing, seems we need to see if one of the Fi guys can verify which is more correct. Otherwise, yes the smaller air space can help to control the cone, although even with only .04 difference the tuning will be slightly higher, though it's likely it will not even be noticeable. IMO if I had the money I'd try it, the worst that could happen is that it simply doesn't perform as well as you would have preferred and in that case you could sell the BL and get something else or try another enclosure.

The tuning on the box seems WAY off, but I'm still calculating it..... Are you POSITIVE the subs are wired in phase with each other and the voice coils on both subs are in phase? Chances are that you're having a difficult time setting the gains with a DMM because the output voltage on that Jensen unit is probably very low, but that shouldn't cause the problems you're experiencing. It really seems like another problem.