altoncustomtech

Thanks brother, clean was what I was hoping for. Well, my first impression was amazement at how loud they get for such little excursion, lol. The sound so far is superior to anything I've ever owned. I still have to go all through the tuning but SMOOTH is definitely the first word that comes to mind. Thanks man, and it was an expensive idea too. I used stainless steel all-thread, nuts and washers. It totaled $72 for 3ft of SS all-thread, and a 50 count bag each of SS nuts and flat washers. I didn't go for the lock washers, just too much money. Instead I opted for double-nutting so that nothing gets loose.

Alright, everything is going well here. The hospital has discharged the wife and she's now home. Hopefully not going back ANY time soon, we HATE hospitals. ANYWAY............ Here's the pics as promised guys. Unfortunately battling with insomnia two nights along with concentrating on the work led to the absence of thought on taking pictures during the installation of everything. I'll post what I have though. If you notice, there's a lack of wires for the fuse holder. I removed the bolts that were in it and used all-thread to make the connections on the back side of the board to help clean up the look. There's a few more things to do such as test and tune, a few more fitment issues with the amp rack to resolve and other little odds and ends but it's working out pretty good overall.

Okay guys. A few of you knew, but my wife has been in the hospital since Saturday. Looks like a gall bladder attack, but without a gall bladder? Anyway, been taking care of her and the kids this week and after the last few sleepless nights........................................ THE VAN IS DONE!!!!!! It's amazing what can be accomplished in the wee hours of night when you can't sleep. Everything is installed, but there's still the testing and tuning that needs to be completed yet. I'm on my way to the hospital now so I'll post up the pictures later on when I can.

Oh hell yeah, CONGRATULATIONS!!!!! That is one happy looking family, good looking little guy, and one proud new daddy.

They're .1 cuft per driver and if that .5cuft box is a ported enclosure don't forget about the port displacement.

If it is going to put out the same power at either ohm load I'd go for the S4 because with the higher impedance it will be easier on the amp and the electrical running it.

Well there's always this, Click HERE. It's about as big as you can even fit in a speaker terminal. If you're just worried about minimum resistance possible this would be the way to go and the price isn't too shabby either.

IMHO 6ft really isn't that far, though the 14awg is probably still a little small I doubt it would make that much of a difference. If I had to recommend a wire though, Knukonceptz 10awg klear kable would be a good wire to use. 10awg would still be small enough not to be a pain to get in the terminals while being able to carry just about anything you could throw at it. Knukonceptz Klear Kable

Figured I'd give a little update for those interested. Haven't gotten anything else done with the van since the last update. Been working the last few days on some things that have been being neglected since putting so much time into the van. Such as the yard, which was needing mowed something awful. With six acres to mow, it takes some time and if I hadn't gotten it done when I did I would had to have had a local farmer come bail it, lol. Along with some other honey do's I've not had time to get anything more done with the van. However, that's all caught up so I should be able to get the little added wiring jobs done tomorrow and be installing everything Friday, WOOHOOO!!!!

Welcome to The Forum!!!

I think it's looking good. For the future I'd recommend countersinking the screws when you put them in, it just helps the overall look and finish. Another note is it looks like there's a little more width between the opening of the port that is inside the enclosure than through the rest of the port. This could mess with the tuning a bit, however I wouldn't worry about it too much, besides it could just be the camera angle or something as well. Otherwise you're using lots of glue on the joints which is good, though you'll want to try to wipe up the excess to help with sealing the box with silicone later. These are all things we learn as we go, so far it really does look good and the box should be a great learning experience for you. Good job and keep up the good work.

^This^ Before I got my nailer I would use my two small clamps to get the fit I wanted, then pre-drill and countersink the wood. Then remove the clamps, apply the glue, then put it back together with the clamps to help hold it until the first few screws were in. Never had a problem doing it that way for many years.

Nice and clean looking install man. I've had my stuff jacked before too, it really sucks. Glad they worked it through with you though, that at least makes it a little better. Hopefully with the way its all installed now you won't have to worry so much about it getting jacked again.

Thanks, that's what I'm going for. Amp rack should be installed REAL soon. Thanks man. Felix appreciates the comment as well. Thanks! and yeah Iove those terminals too. They make it so easy and clean to make quick connections/disconnections. Soldering larger guage wire onto those terminals takes a bit of patience and experience, that's quite true. Patience more than anything though. On to a few quick updates, got the amps mounted to the board. As soon as the last of the wiring is completed in the van this should start going together. Hopefully I'll be testing and tuning by the middle of the week. Mmm, mmm, them amps look sexy.

Here's a few updates. First of all, a little messing around. What's that old saying?? Oh yeah, curiosity deafens the cat? Wiring and installing the first sub. Some pictures of the soldering of the Neutrik Speak-on terminals. Wiring and installation of the second sub. And everything to do with the subs and the box are DONE! I think the look of the subs and the enclosure turned out almost exactly as I had hoped. The motors on them Q's are just SEXY!

Got some more work done, next to wire the box and put the subs in it. Got the subs out last night and put the SERIES wire in place between the coils. You might be able to see it in the picture down by the magnet. It's both leads of 12AWG Knukonceptz Karma speaker wire. Applying the carpet to the beauty panel on the amp rack board. Here's the carpet finished. Amps will be mounted to the board tonight along with the wiring and installation of the subs in the enclosure. If all goes well getting the rest of the tiny details complete it will be done this weekend.

Why not try bypassing all that processing. Temporarily run directly into the sub amp with another source and see if you notice a difference. It sounds like you have so much going on before that amp there could easily be a setting or adjustment that isn't correct. I agree with M5 as well, use a battery and verify the polarity of the terminals on the sub. If one coil is out of phase from the other it won't work anything like it should. You could try hooking another sub up to the amp as well and see if you have another inherent problem with your sub as well.

I will be using the remote knob's in the van and the jimmy. While my Kenwood HU's are great units they do not offer the best or quickest adjustment for the subwoofer level output control. In the van with the old Pioneer unit we had it was a quick easy one or two button press to turn on/off the subs or adjust the level and it could be done from the remote just as easy. The Kenwood's just aren't as easy, which means the wife will need the knob(s) to make adjustments when the kids are riding along. From what I've read the Sundown amps remote knobs are GAIN control knobs that make adjustment within the adjustment of the local gain control, which is ideal for this purpose I think.

Yep, I've gotten the same message when I try to access my email account there. I have no idea what's up.

It can be done but it takes modification to the PSU's. There's tech forums out there with the information on how to do it. In all honesty it will take SEVERAL PSU's to get the power needed to run that amp with any efficiency and with a bank for the power (i.e. battery, capacitor bank, etc.) quick sudden bass lines, drums etc. will continue to drop the voltage quickly. Personally I wouldn't be doing it unless I had the equipment designed to supply that kind of power. I seen on a forum somewhere where a guy built a super heavy duty 12v power supply out of an old welder somehow. It was good to over 200A of current too.

The police here gave tickets for loud stereos for quite awhile until they gave one to the son of a prominent business man and city/county council member (or something like that). Anyway, that guy had so much pull the noise ordinance was all but trash by the time him and his lawyers got done. You can still get ticketed, but if you so much as ask if the officer had a dB meter when he heard you or any other details it gets tossed out of court in a heartbeat with no fines or anything. Pretty much gotten to the point that the cops have quit writing those tickets all together. Although what happens now is when they do pull you over for loud music they scrutenize everything looking for anything they can get a ticket that sticks on you for. I know a guy who had to pay a $25 ticket for one of his two license plate lights being out when he got pulled over right after he turned his music down.

THANX! I would love to have had some pictures of the process of creating the template, however I couldn't hold a camera and do it at the same time, my wife wasn't going to stand out there in the heat and humidity to do it, and I couldn't trust the kids to do it, so...

Here's a few little updates. Here I'm cleaning up the holes drilled into the board for all the wires. Dremmel FTW! Here's a shot of the channels routed into the back of the board. In this area the board will be right up against the panel in the van. To keep things flush the wires will run down the channel to the SAX-100.4 and be held in place by an 1/8" piece of fiber plate. (an old sign from work, thin but very strong) You can also see the beauty panel that will trim and fit the amp board to the panel in the van. Ready for carpet. Carpet applied to the front only for now until the adhesive sets, then I'll slowly work it around the edges.

Thanx, It's coming along. Got some carpet on the amp rack tonight. Wish the heat and humidity would die down for a bit so I could work without feeling like I'm on the 8th level of hell. Thanx man. The box hasn't turned out EXACTLY like I pictured it in my mind but I can't spend any more money on it at this point so it will have to do. A friend asked if I liked the seams showing. I don't particularly but by the time I had enough primer on to see that they weren't going to cover up even after several applications of body filler I wasn't about to sand it off to apply more. Like I said, spent too much money already. The plan on the amp rack is that it will be super clean. Seeing only enough wire at each connection point to make the connection from the board and even the leads going to the fuse for the SAZ-2000 will be completely hidden. By design the only wire's that will be fully seen are the wire's that will connect the sub enclosure to the amp board/amp, and that 's only because it really will look good. (or should anyway, by design)

Fantastic intro, Welcome to the Forum!!! Like the others, look forward to answering questions and helping however we can.