altoncustomtech

Same low 30's tuning as well I presume. Thanks Nick!

Hey guys, I was running down some information to do a build for a buddy this weekend. He's looking to do a modest setup with 4-500 watts of power to the sub stage and would like to go with a pair of 10's. I showed him the 10" X's which he was very interested in after listening to my Q's he's quite impressed with Fi. One thing I noticed both here on the forum and on the website is that there's no Tech specs for that line. It's easy enough to post up here or send an email asking about the optimum tuning, enclosure size, etc. which we'd like to know, but I figured I'd just go ahead and ask when you might be expecting to have something up on that information? Also, I think I read somewhere the X line would still only be a limited run, if that's correct how much longer do you think we're looking at here? He's not got a lot of spare $$$ to spend on the hobby and I'd hate for him to miss the deadline. Thanks in advance and keep up the good work, my Q's are absolutely incredible!! I fully expect the X's to blow my buddy's mind away as well!

Actually, in most cases it will help midbass response. There's an article here Car Audio & Electronics - Midbass Response that goes into some good simple explanation on it. It follows the same principal of any speaker box design. The smaller the enclosure is the further up the frequency scale it peaks at. By building the enclosures in the .3cuft area (not exact science but a good general place to start) that moves the peak response into the midbass region greatly improving the impact and overall output response. Of course this is very general and doesn't apply perfectly in every case. jroadtatts can give some insight in the difference in the response from IB to .5 to .25 as he recently did some testing for that purpose. I believe he found with the Aura's he still got the best overall response IB but you have to remember he was testing with 10" and 12" drivers as well.

One question I'll toss out there right off is about the 10's and 12's of the E line. Do you have an estimation on when those may be expected to go on pre-order. I have a buddy who's going to be doing a very modest install and a pair of 10's in that power range are right up his alley. Don't get me wrong here either, it will be months before he's ready to buy so no rush on the response. Otherwise I'm looking forward to seeing what the "X" line can do. Between them and the SA line there's a good chance there will be a lot more Sundown being sold in my area soon. Everyone's been impressed with the amps in the van and I'm sure they'll be even more impressed when the Jimmy is complete and they get to see and hear the SA-8's in action.

Thanks. They're Neutrik Speak-on connectors from Parts Express. The Karma speaker wire from Knukonceptz is what really makes them nice. When I did the old installation the subs lit up. So I used 4 pole speak-on connectors. 2 poles were used for the signal to the sub, 2 were used to get the 12vdc to the lights. I kept the 4 pole connector's and used the Karma 12 guage bi-wire speaker wire for this installation. For maximum power transfer each sub has two 12 guage runs for positive and 2 runs for the negative. I didn't forget the series jumper wire either, it too is two runs of 12 guage. It's overkill for 1k each sub, but I figured the wire was cheap enough and I already had the 4 pole connector's so I went ahead and used it. Thanks man!!

^^^^ I agree, I think strapping the amps would be the best way to go. I don't think one would destroy the other unless it was a VERY serious failure, but if you just can't drive yourself to do it then, yes an Oscope would be the next BEST. You could get by using a test tone and a good DMM though since even with the oscope all you're doing is matching the output voltage's of each amp. Regardless, I don't think strapping the amps would ever cause a problem.

The accuracy thus far is quite surreal. Was listening to Disturbed - Land of Confusion yesterday and was utterly blown away by how clean the drums and bass guitar were. The more they play the better they get too. Thanks Bro! We're still planning on attending some of the festivities next weekend, as long as the funds come through. As far as the questions, you got my # feel free to call anytime. LOL, I don't have to tell her to stay away, she does everything she can to avoid them. She suffered through the pain in her stomach for around 8 hours before she finally listened to me and let me take her to the ER. She's a good bit stubborn.

Look forward to seeing this build Chop.

While I don't own any SSD's myself my little brother bought a new 18" SSD w/ BP for his 2008 Grand Prix. We're going to shoehorn it into an 8cuft net enclosure tuned to 33hz sealed off to the cabin of the car. We'll be starting the building very soon and we'll have to build it into the trunk of the car. No way to slide that in, lol. Anyway here's a couple of pics of the sub. Here's his SSD next to one of my 12" Q's.

Just out of idle curiosity, where in the great Hoosier state are you? Close or not I'd be more than happy to help you out with what I can. Like everyone else has mentioned, the only way to know for sure is to monitor the voltage. Easiest way to do so would be to purchase something like this Stinger LED Volt Display. Then you can monitor the voltage continuously.

I would imagine, before you go and possibly make a costly mistake, it would be best to cover some bases. First of all, most people really enjoy the sound of their Type R components from what I've read they have sufficient midbass. Are you certain the high pass crossover is set correctly? If that crossover is set too high it will easily cause the midbass to go bye bye. Try turning off the high pass filter and see if it helps. Also you could have one of your midbass's wired out of phase. I'd check some things out first before plunking down money on another set of speakers.

Wow.... I mean WOW... I wish we had haunted houses around here that got that involved and went through that much trouble... They're pretty cheesy around here... I've always wanted to be in something like that. I think it would be an absolute BLAST to dress up and act the part.

Yes, Vincennes. Record Cellar IS NOT involved past the fact that I'm sure a few of the guys who work there attending the show. Which I dunno about you but the less anyone has to deal with Rick and his bullcrap from that place the better.

Holy crap dude. You're on the other side of Detroit. That's a long haul to attend a car show, but we'll be glad to have ya down.

I took the original post by the understanding he didn't have the intention of going active, just crossover capability between the components and the sub.... guess I understood that wrong.

or perhaps he didn't heatshrink/tape the wires good enough and something's shorting out?

:FACEPALM: The harness adapters are only a few dollars, why on earth didn't you make sure he bought one. I'm not familiar with that vehicle at all, but chances are it has a factory "amp" hidden somewhere and it's now fried either due to getting 12v run through it or too high of an input signal because of the amp built into the aftermarket HU. That would be my guess. They make harness adapter's that for connecting the HU to the factory wires and in the case of vehicles with factory "amps" a bypass harness for those. Try hooking a speaker directly up to the output of the HU, not through the factory wiring and see if it still plays. If so then there's something in the chain of the factory stuff that's bad, if it doesn't then something happened to the internal amp of the HU.

Preach on brother, preach on. OP, it's all about the installation. I would say, for now, use the crossover's on the Zed since they're there, but once you have everything installed correctly you'll want to change up to something like what M5 suggested and there's other's out there as well. Even on a budget SQ system you should not limit yourself to so few choices and remember there's much more to what's going on to make it "SQ" than the crossover's, speakers, amps, etc. that you choose.

Another first impression I noticed is the sheer impact. With the Hifonics subs and amps it got loud. Plenty loud enough for us in most cases. Like anything else with two 12's and over 1kw of power you could feel the bass, feel your pant leg or shirt move a little, things like that. Mind now that I have around double the power now but still the sheer impact of the Q's is unreal. For example, Tuesday a friend and fellow club member came over to check it out. We played with lots of songs covering many music genre's. The one that stands out in particular is Metallica's One. The kick drum was down right brutal, the impact nearly took our breath away and almost hurt our chest. Yesterday after work I demo'ed it for my little brother and was playing Tesla's Song and Emotion. When the song came alive he nearly jumped out of his seat. He couldn't believe the force he was hit with from the drums. It's amazing to have the drums be that forceful AND articulate at the same time. Most amazing is that I still have to tune the thing. I set the gains quickly and conservatively by ear with no adjustments to the EQ (not much to make it was pretty much flat to start with) and no adjustments to the crossover settings. It's still not being driven alot yet so I'll get them before we get too serious on it. I have to say I'll enjoy giving a full review once everything is dialed in properly.

I agree with him. Sounded like the amp clipping the sub to me as well. I know speakers are "dumb" and they simply do what you tell them to do, but I swear I've noticed over the years that higher quality more sound quality oriented subs seem to make the clipping more noticeable, such as on kick drums where the power peak is sharp, than other subs that kind of mingle the clipping into the rest of the muddled mess they're reproducing. Just my .02 I say throw a sine wave to it period. If there's no noise that sounds like that then the sub is fine and the amp is clipping.

Thanks man, looking forward to meeting you and the rest of the IAK family that weekend.

I've seen plenty of posts where people say they hate the KLMX, although I have used the KLMX several times without issue. I think it would be just fine to use. Make your buddy chip in on the cost of wire and his own connectors and I think that would be a great way to go :EDIT: I think the problem most people have is they cut too deep when they're stripping the ends off the wire which causes lots of the strands to break off. As long as you don't cut into the strands when you strip the wire it won't do that which goes for pure copper as well, it just doesn't break off as easy.

eheheheh.... reminds me of the PA amps in the PA setup at the university gymnasium here. BIG relays doing the same job, but they almost sounded like power transfer switches. Like the ones used for emergency generators, lol.

Believe it or not the entire Alton family should be in attendance for some of this. Wife wants to take the kids to the children's museum Saturday, get a hotel room and do the show and stuff next day. (given I can get a few extra $$$ up before hand) Our plans as of right now is to make it for the cruise Saturday evening and the show Sunday. May be able to make the lil man's B-Day party depending on how everything goes with the museum.