altoncustomtech

Eight gauge wire and a one ohm load sounds like a disaster waiting to happen. The amp has BIG power wire terminals for a reason, and you simply cannot transfer the current required to make 1200 watts of power on a 12vdc system through 8 gauge wire. You should probably stop playing it at all until you can upgrade the power and ground wires. You're going to fry the amp allowing the input voltage to drop like we're all sure it's doing, and I'm surprised it's not shutting off on you. I believe the SAX1200 only has 4 gauge wire inputs, unlike the SAE's before it which had 1/0. You should get you some good quality 4 gauge wire such as one of the Knukonceptz Kolossus Fleks kits. Don't use any of the CCA (copper clad aluminum) for this application, you don't want to starve anything any worse than it already is. The amp is unable to output full power because it is being choked by that 8 gauge wire, and if it's a Wal-Mart 8 gauge wire kit chances are high it's really closer to 10 gauge.

I'd recommend getting a decent brad nailer and using the nail gun. I bought one a few years ago and have never looked back. Screws take so long with the pre-drilling, screwing and switching back and forth. Even with a second drill it's a pain. As bromo said, it would be best to leave the clamps on a little longer just for good measure. I think you'll find the investment well worth the money.

I have to agree with all the above. It has to be the box. I have a pair of 12" Q's that flat murder the low frequencies. There's no acceptable reason that 15 shouldn't except for the box. As Nick will readily say, speakers are stupid, they do what you tell them to do. The chances are high that the box isn't built and tuned to the specifications that were requested. That being said, get the measurements and we can tell you what it's true volume and tuning is. That includes the port length as well.

Welcome to The Forum!!

The above is very true. There's usually a big, easy to notice difference between manufacturing defect and user error and whether anyone knows for sure which it is or not demanding that it be repaired under warranty is a quick way to guarantee they will not go out of their way to help you out. Like you said, you were nice, explained the problem and even though the conclusion was that it was your fault they were still nice enough to repair it for free. THAT is a great example of how the business relationship should go and just because yours went so well doesn't mean everyone's will, but if a person jumps them right off the bat they can throw it out the window for sure. OP, do exactly as MKader has described and I can guarantee the fella's at Fi will take the best care of you they can within reason. I'm not saying they'll fix it for free, but if they would do anything special to help you out it will only be because you were courteous and respectful to start with and didn't hound them everyday demanding answers either. Also as jay-cee said, finding the real problem that caused the failure is absolutely necessary or it will definitely happen again. +1 to both of you

Man, you'll be asking yourself what the hell happened in no time when he's asking for the keys to borrow the car..... lol I was playing with a good friends 6 month old boy earlier today and it reminded me of how much I miss my kids at that age and size... enjoy and cherish every second you can cuz you'll miss it later..... the first few years are definitely the most precious.....

You may be getting an email tonight to discuss a different box design as JBLcamry is not getting back to me. im sure he's busy and i didnt really wait in line to get his help. Brother, anything I can do to help, anytime. I can't imagine how busy he probably is either. So I take it the last quickie design worked out okay except for the slight miscalculation in the fit?

You do realize the warranty does not cover misuse, abuse or anything you did to destroy that sub don't you? If you bought and starting using the sub back in March then the damage caused to the sub will definitely have been caused by user error. At this point you'll need to contact them about a recone and send it in for repair.

Lookin' forward to seeing this thing get done... Also looking forward to hearing your opinion on those Bravox components... I'm at your service should you need anything I can help with...

That boy's lookin' good there proud daddy... he'll be riding Roxee like a horse before too long... lol

Jared.... I can't wait to see your brother's leg done... That is damn sweet work man....

I was wondering, in the original test I think I remember that RaamMat was your overall winner in the test results. I've learned alot about sound deadening with your answers to other people's questions over time but mostly originally discovered what it was, how it worked and what not from those tests. As a result I used and recommended the RaamMat for quite some time. Recent months have had me questioning it's true nature anyway. I was curious where it stands now. Is it still a worthwhile product, even if a little less effective, or is it like the many other less expensive options out there and not completely unlike the peal 'n seal.

Can't measure ohms while the driver is hooked up to the amp, and especially when you're playing a signal to it. I'd check your input voltage at the amp's terminals and watch it..... almost sounds like the voltage is dropping out on the bigger bass notes. If you see lower 11v... or even into the 10 range you've got a problem with a wire connection on your power or ground wires somewhere I would think...

Lookin' forward to it brother, lookin' forward to it.

That may start tomorrow, I also have an alternator to install. I just hope I don't have any issues with the alternator, it's from DB electrical, 200 amp. I've heard some bad things on this forum about them, but i bought it before I knew there could be potential issues. I guess I'll find out soon enough. Like the enclosure a lot, it looks mean as hell. I do question how well the steel is going to seal to the top and bottom panels of the enclosure, but I figure you have something worked out. Otherwise, my first HO alty was a DB electrical 250 amp. Aside from the voltage regulator being a little slow to compensate it seemed to work pretty decent. It at the very least made a good deal more output than the factory 140 amp that came on the van, but I didn't own a clamp on meter to test it with before I had to replace it. I would imagine I would still be using it if a bad battery hadn't burnt it up.

Don, that is a fantastic write up. I enjoyed reading it.

Fantastic, thanks guys. Just another item on the list of reasons why this forum is at the top of my list!

hey Alton, Regina and I are going down to buy a meter from Shizzzon this weekend...... chop Hell yeah, that will be too sweet. Too bad I'm so far out of the way between Indy and Louisville, would love to meet you guys. It will be going on pretty much all day, signup starts at 9am and the judging for the show and prizes will start around 10am and prizes to be handed out around 1pm but everyone hangs around there almost all day long cuz cars are always coming in late just to attend instead of being judged.

Nice grab chop, this thing will be sweet I can tell, I'm psycho.... wait... I mean psychic...... lol Looking forward to seein' this baby in action soon...

Happens to me all the time.... glad to know I'm not the only one....

The Kenwood would be my choice as well, though u must consider I have a KDC-X991 and a KDC-X492 so I may be a little biased. The Kenwood's have excellent crossover and EQ controls and the higher voltage pre-outs are great to have as well. Good clean output and the ability to turn off the internal amplifier and dead head it if you plan on using all external amplification is another nice function.

Sounds like you may have blown a fuse, check them. The sub amp won't come on if there's no power on the remote wire and it sounds like nothing has power, and since you are using the ACC wire for the HU to remote the amps it just about HAS to be a blown fuse.

Just about any kind of expanding foam will do. After you put the foam in and it's fully cured take that sander with some 40 or 60 sand paper and shape the foam down. Once that's done, get a small can of fiberglass resin and coat the wood and foam after you tape off the area, then just paint it all to match the door and that will get you lookin' decent without too much trouble.

X2.... unlike a computer there's nothing inside an amplifier that is affected by magnetism...

Have you tried contacting anyone at Alpine? They could have it archived somewhere, surely someone has been there long enough to remember it and maybe still have access to a copy.