altoncustomtech

A little more work done today. Cut these out the other day, the shape matches the shape of the factory plastic speaker baffle, holder, thingy. Getting all the tools out and ready. Been awhile since I used the little jig, forgot it only goes to 7.5" needed to cut out 7.25" circles but since the cuts are measured to the outside so they had to be 7.75" ooops... oh well... with the SKIL it's as easy as changing the bases. Getting some circles done Test cut out. Showing the recess for the top layer the mids will mount in. Love using a router to cut out circles. Got the depth just a hair shallower than the 3/4" depth of the MDF so thin I could finish the cuts with my pocket knife. Here's the last test fit. Here's what the baffles will basically look like once they're done. I still have to mark the alignment of the rings to the baffle through the hole in the panel to finish them up. Glued and ready to put the rings together. Rings are assembled. Hopefully I can get the rings aligned on the baffle and begin deadening the door in the next couple of days.

Do you know what the final price is yet guys? I should have a few extra bucks here soon and would love to get one for everyone.

Whether or not the sub will last with 1k of power will all be install and user dependent. Which means if it's installed correctly, gains set correctly, and you have respect for the volume knob you're not going to instantly destroy it or anything. 1k is almost double the rated power, but a responsible person could easily get by alright. The fact that you're considering using a sealed enclosure will help with the power handling ability of the sub as well. If you're looking for more quality than output then going sealed with 1k is the way to go IMO. On the second question, I assume this is a trunk car? Most setups in trunk cars are easier to work with and sound just fine with the sub firing toward the rear of the car from just behind the back of the seat. However, if you wanted to go through the trouble of building a box and sealing to the back of the back seat firing into the cabin you can generally get more output into the car and not have to worry as much about rattling of panels in the trunk, the trunk lid, tail lights, plates etc. Just depends on your installation experience and how much work you'd like to put into the car.

It was a bitch getting the melted crap off after the heatgun. but if you just peel it off it dosent really leave much behind. I always kinda wondered about that. I have wondered if using an old CO2 fire extinguisher or liquid N or something like that to freeze the deadener would help it come off easier. I never thought the recommendations of using heat was a good idea and it looks like you proved it.

Lookin' good thus far. I can imagine the removal of that fatmat was a nightmare by the looks of the crap that was left over.

Guess I shoulda jumped in with a response sooner.

The best way to keep the saw from meandering across the board is to either buy or build a guide for the saw. Lowes has some nice aluminum ones that come with the C clamps, or you can make your own and buy the clamps you need to hold it steady. I would suggest making one for the simple fact that when you use the aluminum one's you have to add the distance from the edge of the saw to the blade to the cut measurement. Whereas with the one's you make all you have to do is line it up with the line to cut from all the different plans I've seen for them on the net. Plus they're really quite simple to build. Cut the end of a piece of MDF or another board of some type, the whole 48" and the long length as well. An inch or two wide is all you need. Then glue and screw (or nail) back on the board with the factory cut side facing in. You'll have to do one at a time on this step as well. Then take your circular saw, set it up against the rail you just screwed (or nailed) and make another cut. The piece that comes off will be the perfect width for your saw and when clamped down on your cut lines will give you a perfectly straight cut every time. Just remember to adjust the new fence for blade width (usually 1/8") for inside cuts. Here's some links to free plans and instructions. number 1 number 2 number 3

Welcome to the Forum!! You shouldn't have any trouble getting the help you need here.

Boy dude, you got too much going on. As much as I would like to see some kewl audio stuff going on in a few weeks, I would agree that it would be best to maybe hold off a little and get some of the other stuff done, and the way unexpected things seem to like to drop on people around here I think making sure your piggy bank is a bit fatter before going for it is a very good idea as well. Still can't wait to see what you end up doing with the car AND definitely still looking forward to next month if you can still make it.

I figured if anyone knew what I was talking about it would be you. It's got me itching to play with the doors on the van. Gotta come up with a plan for it! And believe me, I know how lucky I was the door panel made it so easy. Thanks, and you won't be disappointed by the results. I actually haven't measured the hole there yet, the depth is about 1.75". I'll be using three layers of 3/4" MDF to build my baffles so the rings will be about 2.25" tall, should stick out the door about a half inch minimum, about 3/4 maximum as the depth changes a little as you go around the hole due to the way the panel was molded. Thank you sir, want to keep the builds with the Team. Was too damn tired last night to realize I started it in the wrong section. I'm probably lucky all the pics worked, lol. thank you for the supportive jesture Alton, that is cool of you bro! your ever so breif introduction to this new build already has alot to offer others ....that too, is super freaking cool..... helping others to achieve thier goals..... very important! thx chop I figure I have a hard enough time making it to support the Team at shows and events I damn well better support it any other way I can. LOL I also believe that more people should be doing more to help others out, it's one of the many problems in today's world IMHO. If following my builds and using any of my mad methods to do someone else's build can help that someone else out to achieve their goals then I have achieved my goal in the matter of helping others. A win-win for both. Yes sir... I have the supplies on hand already too. Once the rings are cut and the baffles are built I will apply the deadener and finish the doors. Plans after that are to deaden other key area's of the truck and build and install the amp rack and amps. Hopefully when that's complete it will still be good enough weather to build the box.

It's official. Anyone crazy enough to not modify the door panel to get the mid out from behind it is wasting their money, especially if they have spent big $$$ on quality components. As the pictures indicate above I removed the factory grilles from the door panels so that I can get the mid out from behind the panel with the MDF baffles (still under construction). I drive the truck for an hour everyday to and from work so I get a fair amount of road time listening to it. Immediately noticeable was that the sound stage was up off the floor. It used to sound like almost all instruments were playing below the dash primarily and they also sounded stifled. With the factory grilles out of the way the sound stage has risen up to the top of the dash and every instrument, especially the guitars and vocals, no longer sounds like it's being forced through the wall of a cardboard box. The most impressive difference I noticed was in the response of the components. The PG RSD's have been known for some time as some very good budget components. Mostly due to how loud they can get and still sound decent, especially for the money. I noticed that they seemed to have a bit of a peaky response in the 1.5khz to 3khz region and figured it had to do with the cheaper build nature of the set. I'm proud to say that the peak in the response seems to have been caused by reflections off the factory grilles causing some sort of odd order harmonic interaction. With the grilles gone the songs I used to turn down due to the ear splitting response now play just as smooth and defined as the rest. At any rate, anyone ever debating on building kick panels, door pods or any other custom modification that results in the speakers not being stuffed behind the door panels should stop thinking about it and do it. I never imagined the factory panels hurt the speakers response THIS bad. I mean, logic told me it had to have some affect but I never imagined it was this dramatic. Sorry for the rant guys, just excited.

Thank you sir, want to keep the builds with the Team. Was too damn tired last night to realize I started it in the wrong section. I'm probably lucky all the pics worked, lol.

Thanks, glad I could help. No. Actually I used my dremel tool, a spiral cutting bit, and a VERY steady hand. I cut a rough hole out smaller than I needed first, then slowly went around it until I had a perfect hole for the tweeter. Yes this is a 2 door Jimmy AND stay tuned as I may be doing exactly what you're looking for without building a custom kick panel or pod.

This is almost EXACTLY what most of the kids' installs look like around here.

lol.... ooops..... I believe they have a standard cast basket..... If you know someone who has a 12" sub with a standard cast basket lying around you could use it, or if someone just had an one off a sub that wasn't any good anymore you could lay it in the holes and skip the template.... just an idea...

why not lay a sub face down on a piece of cardboard, then stick a marker, pen, pencil or something through the mounting holes to the cardboard to mark the holes, then go around the outside of it for the outsie cut out.....

I second this one. I've even found them online for around $200 as well. Very good sounding, clean system. It has impressed everyone who's listened to it, with a few people who have a hard time believing that it's only what it is. While the amp being built into the sub cabinet and the control box having limited cable length can be a problem when using it for HT, it's nearly impossible to buy a regular HTIB that can keep up with it. None of the HTIB's I've seen in Wal-mart, Sams, or Best-Buy with a price anywhere near this can touch it. Just my .02

Figured this needs posted. The address for the location where the show is held won't come up on Yahoo or Google maps for some reason they default off to another address. That address however, is right on the corner next to the parking lot where the show is taking place so that's alright. If you use this address: 1400 Chestnut St., Vincennes, IN (47591) it will take you right where you need to be, you'll see the show AND the parking lot right off to the left at that intersection. Just an FYI for those interested in coming by.

I have the issue of the mag before it went out of print with this list in it. I still want the Polk SR6500's. One thing is for certain, whether it's $5000 or $160, every set on that list is pretty much a good set it seems, good for their intended purposes for sure.

As a former Hifonics owner and user, I'll say to steer clear of them. They have more than their share of reliability issues. While most of the people who experience reliability issues are most likely running them outside of their design specifications, and I never had a functionality issue with mine either, the overall performance leaves a good deal to be desired. They do their job, but really only do it befitting their price range. I watched the ones I owned begin to distort the signal far before they reached full output on an o'scope, with or without a load. One of the biggest reasons I got rid of them as quickly as possible. There seems to be amps out there, similar in price, that are far more trustworthy performers. Since you ordered a dual 2 Q, that throws the Kicker out, the Audioque 1200 is the next best option. A lot of people are using the Audiopipe amps as well. They're price seems too good to be true to me, but they have a lot of users so without a bench test I'll wait for a chance to play with one myself before giving any opinions. I'll just toss out there that there are people selling amps all the time. You could find a great used SAZ-1000 or SAE-1200 or even a refurbished one. Used amps of all different brands and sizes are for sale all the time.

Damn Chop.. that's purdy.... The wheels look fantastic on it, and that paint is amazing! Can't wait to see it in person.

If Jacob agrees, that is a really cool thing to do. Props for the good business character.

If it's dipping to 12.8 on the gauge at the dash, the voltage at the amp is probably below 11v. If you've already got your 4 gauge, battery here soon, and ready to do everything then you should be good to go when it's done. I would still limit my playing with it until it's done though. To maintain power output when voltage drops, current rises, thus creating heat. Between the heat and the current being choked voltage drops more, then current rises more along with more heat. It's a vicious cycle that can, and has, burned up many an amplifier and if you're not careful it can ruin yours as well.

I swore I'd never buy an IPod. Still haven't, though my lil bro gave me his old Nano. Gotta say, I love the damn thing. Got over 1,000 songs on it, and while I can hear the difference between it and the same songs I have on CD, to me it's not detrimental enough to stop using it. It's simply too damn handy to use, not having to switch CD's constantly, being able to listen to ALL my favorite music anytime I like, unlike the radio. Then, when I'm out of the vehicle working or whatever I can put the earbuds in and listen some more. While I do hate that the music quality isn't as good as it could be, the pros far out weigh the cons to me. With the headunits I have, USB control with the IPod's standard USB cable makes it a walk in the park. Now the only time I pull CD's out is for demoing purposes. Kenwood KDC-X991 in the Van, KDC-X492 in the Jimmy.

Is that 12.8v on a gauge on the dash, or with the DMM at the power terminals. If it's on the car's gauge then that is not a true representation of the voltage at the amp. If it's the DMM on the amp then, well, it's amazing it's staying that stable.