altoncustomtech

I doubt that wire is REAL 0 guage at that price. Quite honestly, if you're needing to save a few dollars and the only amp on the wire will be the 1500 then you can easily get by with a 1/0 CCA kit from KNU. CCA can't carry the same amount of current as an equally sized wire that's pure copper. However, if the 1500 is the only amp on the wire you won't pull anywhere near the capacity of the 1/0 KNU CCA kit. If I were you, that would be the way I would go. KNU CCA Amp Kit The kit doesn't come with RCA's but here's KNU's run of the mill ones. KNU RCA's

WOW.... can we say pissing match anyone? LOL! I think everyone's forgotten the purpose behind the topic here. The OP was simply asking what size would be best and it turned into a mess. Now, we need to give him all the points, not just toss a bunch of opinions out there and argue over who's is the better. Definitely as was originally stated, the largest that can fit in the terminals of the amp should be used, for best results. Verifiably that is 1/0 AWG. While the kits, be it Stinger, KNU, Rockford, whatever brand can be a little more expensive, they are handier for beginners as they include pretty much everything one needs. When it comes to places to get welding cable, weldingsupply.com, cableyard.com and several other places can be much less expensive to attain the cable. However, it does have to be pieced together which takes time and a little experience. Piecing a kit together from a welding supply isn't too bad, the cable and connectors are easily gotten, however the fuse holder, battery terminal if you want one, and other accessories still have to be picked up at the Stinger, KNU, Rockford, etc. stores. Speaker wire, RCA's and such really come down to how much you're willing to spend on them. At least 12awg speaker wire should be used with the subs as a generally followed rule. C'mon guys, lets keep the topic at hand. Sorry everyone, I just read through the entire topic and it threw me how much no help it really was.

Which mobo do you have? A faster CPU may help a little, but the Vid card upgrade, and if possible, a faster RAM would be more beneficial, especially the vid card if yours is much older than the one you linked. Today's games are much more dependent on the power and speed of the BUS (PCIE), the memory and the power and memory of the video card than before. I can remember the days when CPU power and RAM were the top need for a fast gaming machine. They're still important, but not nearly as much as the video card and bus speeds. My guess is you're limited by memory and bus bandwidth.

Cutting that metal plate will be just fine, depending on the car. Some cars build some structural integrity into that plate, you'll just have to study it very closely to see. Usually there's braces, or more than one layer of sheet metal in a crease to indicate some sort of structural purpose. If that's the case you'll have to keep those parts in place while you do the building. If not, then cut away! I'm with Jared on the trunk scene. I think they sound best when sealed to the cabin of the vehicle. Then a fiberglass beauty panel will look gorgeous. There used to be a build somewhere I went to all the time to show people where a guy built a hell of a box in a trunk and built some BEAUTIFUL beauty panels to seal it into the cabin, with the aero ports coming up where the rear speakers used to be, flushed into fiberglass, then a fiberglass beauty panel for his amps as well. Sub was a TC Sounds LMS Ultra, 15 or 18.... wish I could still remember where that build was at....

Someone posed the exact question to Nick in the chat the other day. None of the soft parts on the subs are fragile enough to be caused any trouble by playing hard cold, but if you feel better letting things warm up first, there's no problem doing so.

Nope, gotta say I call dibs on the El Camino project car. Got my dad's '78 SS to play with.

I have a secret crush on a volvo wagon. just done think i could own one. So put it in your wife's name, then YOU technically wouldn't own it.

Yeah they're big, but believe it or not they're still small compared to some of the engines that exist. Thank You, I thought any one who's a gear head or who generally likes to see something different would enjoy it. Work is getting in the way of me getting the pics.

LOL, that's not a bad idea. Though it might be kinda hard to get it setup cuz unless we're doing an overhaul the only time we have it apart like that is when there's something wrong. They're not like a smallblock, you don't take it apart unless you really have to. In the 5th picture you can see the big beam with the yellow and black stripes on it. That's our 5 ton hoist. Every part from the heads, to the piston & con rod, to the liner have to be lifted off and out with that hoist. Not exactly something that can be done very quickly or easily. A couple of interesting notes though, after we reinstall the piston and rod and bolt the cap back onto the rod we actually use the hoist to lift on the piston to bump check the clearance of the bearing. Also, there are TEN 1.75" studs that hold each head onto the block. Each one has to be torqued to 990ft. lbs. for proper torque spec. Not exactly friendly to maintenance. We do use an air powered torque tool called a RAD tool to torque them, but it takes quite awhile as the heads have to be torqued down in steps. By the time you get done hefting that 40lb. tool over and over again you're pretty well worn completely out. They're torqued down in 6 steps, then it may take another 4-6 rounds at 990ft.lbs. before they're fully torqued and the nut no longer spins more than 1/8 turn.

Well, the turbine can do 0-60psi of differential in about 5, depending on pipeline conditions. The recips take alot longer to get up to speed, but they can haul it like no other. Think of it like this, the turbine is more like a regular race car, it can wind up and blow down the track (pipe) in a hurry. The recips are kinda like those BIG dump trucks you see at coal mines with the 13ft tall tires, they're far from the fastest things in the world but little can stand in their way. :lol2: :lol2: :lol2:

LOL, you are aware that technically speaking, 2700HP at 300RPM is 42,768ft. lbs. of torque? How's that for POWER?!?!!? It can be!! It's always fun when we have to change a liner out to climb down into the block, stand on the crankshaft, and clean where the liner O-Rings seal and clean the intake and exhaust ports. Only a little...

Well, it's not exactly rocket science or any kind of absolute. It has to do with your listening habits, the enclosure and it's tuning, and how you set your gains. If the enclosure is built and tuned correctly, assuming it's ported, AND you set your gains conservatively, you shouldn't have any problems as long as you listen for stress from them while playing them, especially when you get happy with the volume knob, otherwise you should be fine. There's no definite answer. I've seen a 100watt rated speaker take a wall socket for over 15 minutes without giving up. I've also seen a sub rated for 900wrms blown with a 250wrms amp. It all depends on application and execution.

From my experience, "A" will be the proper length dimension, due to the fact the air must travel around a bend equal to the rest of the port width it adds to the total length. Or, at least that's how I've been doing and figuring them for years, but I could have been wrong all this time.

We will bring this model to production, we have to complete testing to see if it is this version. The original did not stand up to Marks abuse testing. 4k bwaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaahhhh *POOF* 4k??? Abuse testing??? That's not abuse testing, that's being lined up at the firing line, or putting the noose around your neck at the gallows. :lol2: Damn that's a mean test, hope this prototype is holding up better! I'll definitely be recommending these to everyone around here!!!

Happy B-Day dude!

Hey, you're not going to hear any laughter from me on the minivan thing. I'm real glad you're liking the Fi sub, you'll love it even more once it's loosened up some more. Had a friend that works at the local gas station tell me yesterday that when my wife pulled into it the other day some guy kinda freaked out and said "WOW, that's a rockin' soccer mom." In reference to her rattling a few things in the store from her 1998 Chevy Venture minivan. Aside from it's capability to rattle a few things outside of it, it's a very clean sounding vehicle and I agree the cabin gain lends itself nicely to being easily energized. Plus it is kinda fun to be driving through a parking lot with the windows up and watching people looking around for the vehicle responsible but not putting a second thought on the minivan, lol.

Too many DeeBeez?? Looks like the spacer between the bottom bolt leg of the alt and the bracket was too narrow which made the bolt pull on the front of that bracket and finally snapped it. In order for it to not happen again that alt and spacer need to have VERY little play inside the bracket so it doesn't pull on the tabs.

If it weren't for the 155mph part (though with today's available mods it might be possible) I would recommend something completely different, like a retired Ambulance??

No kiddin, I THOROUGHLY inspected my Q's when I got them because the boxes were beat up pretty good. They both turned out fine though. I know once you get your second one you'll love them!!

You're going to have to do some troubleshooting. The problem could be caused by several things. You've burnt a coil, an amp is failing, the enclosure may have failed, there's a power problem with an amp. There's literally a couple dozen possible problems. You'll have to start at one point and start checking problems. Wires first, then make sure both amps have power without protection lights, then check the enclosure, take a DMM and test the coils on the subs, play a tone and test the voltage coming out of the terminals on both amps or take it back to where you had it installed and have them check it out if you don't think you can properly troubleshoot the system.

Happy Birthday dude!

Being that I own a set of the PG's myself, they are hard to beat for good overall sound and price. Very good bang for your buck set. ID CTX's are a great component set at well, though priced a hair above the $150 budget you mentioned. Rears with a good set of components up front won't be necessary in almost any case. You've got the right ideas, which ever set you end up going with I think you'll be happy with the end results, perhaps even surprised. You're on the right path, continue.

I don't care who ya are, that's funny right there. :lol2:

Woohoo, made the deposit this morning. Sis will be rockin' her DCON in no time!! Thanks again Andrew!!!

I bought my sister a DCON for her birthday, and haven't had a chance to get around to building the enclosure for her. As we all know, it took me a year to get the Van done, I don't want her to wait any longer for the DCON. I have already designed the enclosure, just need a quote to get it built, finished in standard charcoal gray carpet. Dimensions, measurements and design are as follows. THANK YOU for the help here. Hopefully I can get this taken care of before her birthday rolls around AGAIN!!!