altoncustomtech

I cannot imagine a single possible reason why you could not do this. Hell, I've done it many times, as I'm sure many others have. If there's a no no reason for doing so I'd like to have it explained in excruciating detail, lol. It's not going to hurt any equipment, nor should there be any effect on charging the batteries together.

You can't push the sound waves, but you can "concentrate" (for lack of a better word at the moment, M5 I know you have a better term for it) them. Think of yelling through a traffic cone for example, there are horn loaded enclosures than can do the kind of thing your idea was moving toward. However, if you remember Impious's post on the length of the waves, it takes a VERY large and long horn to effect the sound waves in that manner and are not really ideal for car audio use due to the size. People have done them, don't get me wrong. I just have never seen one in person to give you any idea of how it worked out. I would still stick with the idea that a properly built, braced and tuned ported enclosure will out perform any other wild idea, like a transmission line or horn, that was done wrong just to fit in the car. Just my .02

I agree.... I use that gasket tape on EVERYTHING I build. Seal subs, ports, removable ports/panels just about anything. Look at the bottom of the rubber gasket, you'll see the foam tape.

Welcome to the forum!!! Time for ????

Sooooo.... How long 'til they're up on the site? I'm planning on making another decent purchase on some apparel (wife wants shirts too) and would love to toss a belt or two on with the order!!

If you own a DMM it is possible to use one amp on each coil of the sub, HOWEVER, you have to be certain the output of each of the amps is very close or it can cause damage eventually. You'll want to use RCA splitters to get both amps the left and right channels. Second, find a CD or an MP3 of a test tone to play on loop so it's the same tone over and over again. Now, at this point you'll want to set the gains on the amps as you normally would except for one big detail, don't turn one up and then the other any significant amount. Tweak one up a few volts on the DMM, then the other to match the first one. Get the gains set where you want just make sure they're as close to the same output as possible. Do that, and you should be alright until you can save up the money to buy a good 1 ohm stable monoblock amp. I wouldn't wait any longer than absolutely necessary to make the purchase either since if one amp decides to take a crap on you, you may not notice much of a change until it's too late and the sub is damaged. I've seen people screw up and run a sub on a single coil for months not realizing how it was supposed to be hooked up and I've also seen one get destroyed moments after getting power applied without one coil connected on accident. Every piece of equipment and situation is different. Running two amps, one to each coil isn't a dangerous practice in and of itself. Competitors have done it for years, especially back in the olden days of yore. They did it back then because the drivers could handle the power but the choices of high powered amps were limited and quite expensive. A person could theoretically put more power to a driver with less money in two smaller or cheaper amps, then with the one bigger one. Ultimately I wouldn't do it myself, but I'm just saying, it's not impossible nor completely impractical to do so.

i believe he meant negotiable...

Looks like it turned out real good. I figure that now that you've gotten and used the router with the circle jigs and other bits that you wonder how you ever built boxes without before, lol. It's been a long time coming and I'm REALLY glad it turned out so well. Gotta get with ya sometime and get all the skinny details on how it's sounding. Can't wait to see it completely finished, it fits the truck so well!!

Dude, as M5 stated in the other thread, most likely you don't have the proper room for 12's in the cab of that truck. Three SA-8's could do well though.

You know, the easy math says that 10kw of power is 100volts at 100amps. Not only could you blow the cones off the DD9515's, you can weld together any of the parts that break on the car from it. Awesome grab dude.

In all seriousness, welcome to the forum dude.

First of all, neither MLV or deadener bounce any waves by design, the MLV will absorb them though. Second, IF the waves were some how sped up it would cause the frequency to rise which would be VERY bad in any situation and screw everything up in the response. It's still not a stupid question, or theory. Nothing wrong with trying to think outside the box, and if you don't ask you'll never learn anything.

Um, you'd waste money? All I've ever heard about doing it is that it would do no good what so ever. However, I used to know some old school enthusiasts who would line a few walls in a ported enclosure with quilt batting claiming it helped in some way. Never did a before and after comparison to see if there really was any difference though. It would probably be tough to keep something like that in the enclosure too with the large ports, high power, and sheer volume of air most of us are moving with our subs and enclosures. Most of these guys were building simpler, smaller, and lower power home speakers. Not a dumb question though.

^^^^ THOSE ARE REAL TOO!!!!!!! LOL, she is a blessed woman.

I would imagine they are still available or they wouldn't be on the website. I also just ordered two for some friends Friday, just after the new year hit. Place the order, the worst that can happen is they'll have to refund the monies.

Being an owner of the exact setup you're pushing for (pair of 12" Q's in 4.2cuft tuned to 32hz) I can tell you the response is great. The subs can get plenty loud enough and sound amazing with the upper bass notes coming across crisp and tight and the deep notes rumbling through with authority, sometimes violently.

WOOHOO!!! Congratulations to the entire Hinkle family and welcome ado to the new family member!!! It's been a long, hard road for Samantha and the baby but the worst is over now, prayers and good wishes go out to all of you!!

LOL.... gotta love reading things on the internet.... I know and I agree, there is at times too much emphasis pointed to having it done.... and all I was really trying to say was that with the emphaiss aside, it doesn't hurt anything to have it done either.....

The big 3 is always a good idea, but it is too over-hyped. You do realize this same wire is carrying over 500 amps while your car is starting yet you don't see manufacturers putting 2/0 in the car to handle that do you. The fact of the matter is, That alt will very rarely, if ever, be supplying 270 amps, much less be doing it at a constant rate, so many times stock wiring is fine. I dunno about 500 amps. My 2007 Chevy 2500HD work truck with the 6.0L only pulls 180-200amps when starting, measured with a DC clamp on multiple times for some other testing we were doing to the truck. Plus that 180-200 was only for a second, maybe two, not near enough time to build any real heat on the stock wires. Even 500 amps, given it was only a short burst of a few seconds tops, wouldn't heat the stock size wiring up enough to cause any trouble. Don't get me wrong, I'm not arguing against your point, when it comes to current draw it's seldom ever at high rates for any period of time unless you're playing sine waves instead of music. BUT even so, the current draw whether it's 100amps or 400 amps is more efficiently transferred with the BIG 3. The first thing I noticed in my van when I did the BIG 3 was that it did indeed seem to start a little faster/easier as well as support the audio equipment better overall with less voltage drop than without it. While it could all be debated, one thing is for certain when it comes to current flow is that there's no way the extra capacity to flow will ever hurt anything.

Search function.... two minutes.... easy..... .19cuft per, .38 for two....

They don't have to be inaccurate if the people who create them think of such things. The calc sheet I use takes, sub,port and port wall displacements into the calculation and with a little ingenuitive figuring anything else such as bracing, plexi, etc. can be added as well. It's not impossible, just takes more time to include. As far as the OP's design is concerned, I completely agree with Andrew on this. If you think it's fine run with it. It's not enough port area for my tastes either, however I also understand that sometimes a compromise has to be made to get things to work/fit/cooperate in these screwy environments that are our vehicles. I would go through it a few more times, take extra measurements, whatever it takes and be completely satisfied with the theoretical results before making the first cut though, if I were you.

Whoa bro... glad you and your buddy turned out of the accident ok.

Dude, that is great! I assume you're rewinding those by hand in most cases, simply awesome. Even if you weren't, that would take quite a bit of skill and patience to do those repairs, especially with the condition some of them were in. Nice job.