altoncustomtech

Your thoughts are correct, tuning should affect where you set the SSF. LPF will be more of a system and user preferenced setting. Some drivers in some alignments will do well playing up higher, others won't. Sometimes if the front stage is weak a person will need a little higher LPF setting to get the midbass response they are looking for. It's really pretty situation dependent and basically a person should just set it to what sounds good to them.

Awesome! Thanks for the link to that! I have considered doing something similar with window tint, looks like someone else beat me to it.

Thanks brother! I figure any progress is a good thing, lol. Speaking of progress, I have an update!! The false floor/amp rack is installed, hooked up, and the Bravox set has REALLY come to life now! That little Zapco ST-4D is a powerhouse for it's size and the Bravox CS603CS components are digging everything it's throwing at them bridged. The midbass impact went from definitely feeling it to almost feeling a little violent. It's a bit freaky to hear and feel the midbass like that and then take a close look at everything and it doesn't even look like it's working hard to do it. It's making me SUPER excited to get the SLS 8's shoehorned into the Jimmy! Here's some pictures of it completed. Here's the wiring connected at the battery. I ordered and used the new battery terminals that Knukonceptz has available. I wasn't horribly impressed with the first ones they had, which I used in the Jimmy. These are fantastic and tighten up on the terminals perfectly which was the issue I had with the other ones. These have three set screw connections, 1/0, 4 AWG and 8AWG respectively and a bolt on the side which can be used for ring terminals or, as in the case with my setup, with the available top post adapters that I used for the factory wires to connect to. All said and done it's a super solid setup and should serve me well for a long time. Here's the final wiring pictures of the amps in the amp rack. With everything connected there's not as much room as I had hoped for between everything but it should still all be far enough apart to prevent any issues. I can't wait to get the enclosure built for the DCON's so I can hear that Zapco Z-1KD do work. Being so close to the battery with the 1/0 wiring it shouldn't want for power at any time. Here's another shot of the remote knob for the Zapco and the remote controller for the Soundstream Harmony. I'm going to have to put a little finger nail polish or something on that LED for the Zapco knob but otherwise they're lit up and showing that things are ready to rock! Lastly here's a few pictures of the amp rack with the lid shut and it slid fully into position after setting the gains on the Harmony and the ST-4D. Because it's bridged I played with everything and got one side as close to just right as I could setting it by ear then used a 400hz tone and my DMM to match the voltage output of the 3/4 bridged channels to the 1/2 bridged channels. Well, that's it for now. I spent some time tuning the HPF, time alignment and EQ's for the speakers. I have plenty more tuning to do but the wife was too excited to get to go play with it for a bit to do any more today, lol. Time to start on a final design for the subwoofer enclosure and get started building that while looking for time to complete the fiberglass work on the front doors.

Happy birthday dude!!

I've got some stuff from my hoard of car audio that I'm certain that I'm not going to be using anytime soon and I'm fairly certain that no one I know close to me is going to need it either. So instead of it sitting and going to waste I may as well sell it to someone who can and will use it and put the money to good use elsewhere. First up: A used Audison SR2 two channel amplifier. It has all the accessories it came with and looks as though it was very gently used. I wanted to keep it but it probably won't ever get used so out it goes to someone who can use it. All the original mounting screws and the screws for the plastic cover are poked into the styrofoam and no I haven't hooked it up while I've had it. $100 shipped $90 SHIPPED Second: A used Sundown Audio SA-15 sub with D2 coil configuration. I hooked it up to play with my DATS when I first got it, it's not been on an amp or in a box. It still feels tight and doesn't have any coil rub or discoloration to the coil at all. It was shipped to me in the original styrofoam but without the original box, only a bunch of cardboard panels that were taped together and that immediately fell apart when I opened it. I will find a proper box for it to ship in before I ship it out to whomever buys it. $125 + shipping (this thing is heavy!) $115 + SHIPPING (It's still heavy) Third: Here is a pair of BNIB Diamond Audio D3 10" Dual 2 ohm subwoofers. They're brand new, never hooked up, never mounted in an enclosure and only out of the boxes for inspection and pictures. These retailed for ~$140+ each so this should be a great price. $150 + shipping SOLD Fourth: This is a BNIB Blues Audio BA1-1000 monoblock subwoofer amp. It's rated at 500wrms @ 4 ohms and 1,000wrms @ 2 ohms. This hasn't been hooked up or out of the box for anything but pictures. It's a cheap little Chinese built amp but it does have some weight to it and I would imagine it's no worse than any other Chinese amp of similar build and ratings. $100 shipped $90 SHIPPED Last but not least: Another BNIB amplifier, the JBL GTO1004 4 channel amp. It's rated at 100wrms x 4 @ 4ohms, 150wrms x 4 @ 2 ohms and 300wrms x 2 bridged at 4 ohms. This amp hasn't been hooked up at all either and has only been out of the box for pictures. $140 shipped SOLD

The Audison SR2, Blues Audio BA-1.1000, and Sundown SA-15 are sold.

Thanks brother! Okay, just a small update here. I've been working on getting some of the small stuff done the last couple of weeks. I prewired the amps and DSP in the false floor/amp rack so that all I have to do when I get the time is drop it in, get all the wires hooked up, and get everything tuned. I've gotten the remote knob for the Z-1K and the remote controller for the DSP mounted in a pocket at the bottom of the dash. Those associated wires and the RCA's and remote wire were all ran at that point. I also decided to go ahead and run new speaker wires to the doors which involved me having to take the doors off to drill holes, install rubber grommets and then run the wires up under the dash and through to the doors. So everything wiring related is ready to go. Here's a few pictures. I would like to have taken more but with my super limited time to work on this stuff I keep finding myself taking pictures as an after thought. Sorry guys. This is the remote knob for the sub amp and the controller for the Harmony DSP. I had to do some custom fab work to that little pocket to fit these here but they're in and don't look too shabby. Here's a shot of the door jamb where the KnuKonceptz Karma SS speaker wire is passing through. The outer jacket on this wire makes it PERFECT for this application. Finally here's the false floor/amp rack with the covers over the amps finished with paint and clear coat and the associated wiring. All it needs is put into the Traverse and hooked up! There's this little update. I can't begin to pretend to have any clue when I'll be able to get it put in and that update posted up, lol.

I agree 100%, this should be the bare minimum. Carefully playing it free air should alert you to any problems it may have. You sure don't want to bottom it out but getting it moving a bit to check for problems is necessary.

TTT Bumping this thread... There's still two amps and a sub that need a good home!!

That depends on exactly what you mean by "overdriving" the subs. Technically speaking they should have better mechanical power handling in the sealed enclosure versus that of a ported enclosure across the frequencies they play and especially below the tuning frequency of the compared ported enclosure. Anytime someone mentions anything about poor power handling characteristics in an otherwise acceptable environment for the subs to be playing in my first thought goes to ensuring all the wiring and connections are correct and secure. My second thought goes to questioning how perfect the enclosure is sealing. Any air leaks at all affect the performance and can cause unpredictable results. Especially even on a ported enclosure, if the air is allowed to escape anywhere other than the port it's going to suffer. On a sealed enclosure you should be able to push in on one driver and observe the other one moving outward and staying there as long as you're holding the first one in. Double check the wiring, connections, crossover settings and the seal of the enclosure. That and a better explanation of what you mean by "overdriving" and we'll be in a better position to help out more.

For anyone close enough to attend, there's going to be a car show going on Saturday October 17th at the Ivy Tech community college in Terre Haute Indiana. A link to the website for pre-registration is below and they have a link for a flyer available on the website as well. I thought I'd throw this one up just in case someone might be interested in going. WEBSITE LINK

Not the same one. The one from last year is in November. This is a new one I saw when passing by that school during work the other day. As soon as the other one has the information up I'll definitely be posting it up as well.

Awesome! Glad to help out!

Here's the enclosure. It's 4.4 cu.ft. NET and matches your given dimensions exactly. The angle that the top, bottom and back need to be cut to is approximately 17.5 deg. If you have a table saw you should have a pretty easy time of getting really close. If you're using a circular saw to make your cuts I suggest getting a tool like THIS ONE and it should make it easy enough to get really close as well. Otherwise you may have to just practice on some scrap pieces until you get it close enough. Also, if you're using a circular saw make absolutely certain you're using a saw guide with cuts this long, especially when cutting angles. It's tricky enough to cut straight lines with a circular saw with a standard cut but go to cut angles and it's almost impossible to make a good cut without a guide. If you don't have one I can point you to a link that explains how to make your own very easily that cost next to nothing. Onto the enclosure pics. I can't wait to see how it turns out and what you think of the XCON's in the sealed enclosure. Let me know if you need anything else.

Alright. There's no way for me to know if everything lines up without having the vehicle to look at personally. You should mock up the profile of the enclosure (16" H x 12" Top X 17" Bottom) by cutting out some cardboard in that shape. Then you'll know for certain if everything lines up at those dimensions or not. Polyfill shouldn't hurt at all. Listen to it without any first, then add about a half a pound per cubic foot. Listen to it again and adjust the amount to what sounds the best to you. Just keep the maximum amount you add to 1 pound or less per cubic foot, there is no minimum.

You've got just right at 4.8 cuft. of space to work with. Each sub has .2 cuft. of displacement so that leaves only 4.4 cuft. NET to work with. That still falls in the range of usable for the subs in a sealed enclosure so if that's okay with you I'll start drawing a sealed enclosure up with those dimensions.

The difference between the standard and optimal sizes are as simple as the names sound. The standard size is a size that will work fine without issues but isn't 100% optimal for the driver whereas the optimal size is what SSA feels is the optimum enclosure specifications for that driver. As mentioned by ssh, and per our other conversation, power doesn't determine any of the enclosure specifications and in the grand scheme of things doesn't even play that big of a part in output. Not big enough for a daily vehicle anyway. Gimme the dimensions and other pertinent information and I'll be glad to help work something up for the XCON's.

Personally, I love it here. Sure, it's a little slower here than on some other car audio forums. The difference is that here it's about quality, not quantity. The other forums are chock full of crap starting, attention seeking, false information repeating members and none of that is conducive to a productive environment. I'm not saying that none of that EVER happens here, but it is usually started by new members from those forums and gets stomped out fairly quickly on most occasions. I would much rather be a member of a site that is a little slower but full of good people and information than a site that has lots of activity and none of it worth seeing. Just my .02

Happy birthday brother!

Thanks guys.

Another small update to post up. The amp rack is pretty much completed. The only thing left to do with the amp rack itself is the last second addition of hinges. I was going to just screw the top down to the base but I'm afraid that if I have to remove it to make adjustments too many times that it will ultimately end of causing problems. So I've opted to put some hinges on the top to allow for it to simply be opened when adjustments are needed along with the use of a cabinet lock to keep it shut. The only other part of the rack I have to complete is cutting some 1/4" thick perforated steel to size to fill the recesses in the top of the rack lid to protect the top of the amps while allowing air to ventilate. The 1/4" thick perforated steel has 3/4" holes and in adverse weather conditions I'll be temporarily covering the rack with floor mats to protect everything. So onto some pictures. Here I'm checking the fitment of the rack base along with making sure there is sufficient clearance for the 4 gauge and 1/0 power wires to make the trip from the battery to the amps. I've got the ventilation holes cut, routed and ready for the perforated steel inlays. I also have gotten the upright supports glued into place as well. The amp rack is pretty much completely done at this point. The base is painted with rubberized undercoating and carpeting has been applied with contact cement. I have some thin sheet metal that was left over from the door inserts for our cabinet doors from the kitchen renovations we're also in the middle of. It looks pretty good but will not likely be permanent due to it's "overly light for the application" nature. I will likely find something in 16 gauge perforated steel to replace it at some point in the future. That's all the updates I have to post up right now. If life will ever cooperate I will have the amp rack installed this weekend, or next considering that next weekend should be a 3 day weekend for me.

Sorry I hadn't seen this until now. From a patience standpoint it was absolutely grueling. Not only because of the work itself but because there was so much time in between the instances where work actually got done that has caused this whole project to have been taking over a year now, again, like the Jimmy which isn't even completed yet. The good thing about that is that it ensures that it gets done exactly like I want and/or how it should be done.

Well, that didn't last long.... Crescendo BC2000 is SOLD!