altoncustomtech

If properly sealed from the trunk, your cabin volume would drop slightly, thus less room to pressurize, more cabin gain, more output I've always read from quite a few people that when they fired forward, they had a little better sq. Oh and your trunk shouldn't flex like a bitch, no nasty annoying ass trunk rattle LOL, beat me to it... yeah, what he said......

Forward firing, sealed into the cabin has the benefits of not having to worry about in trunk cancellations. It also help tremendously with rattles and vibrations as the trunk is no longer a factor in the pressurization of things. It helps also that the subs have only to pressurize the cabin of the vehicle. With less air to pressurize there's more potential there for getting louder. All in a nutshell. I've always just liked the sound better sealed to the cabin as well. Just my .02

True, the 3500's should easily pull more than 320, I wasn't thinking of that testing situation really. No matter the testing situation you'll have to be sure to adjust the engine RPM's to get the right alternator armature rpm's to be sure you can get full output from it, anything less than that and it won't produce the full 320A. I don't think you'll have any problems getting the rated output from it as you test though. Good luck with it, I'm looking forward to your findings. I always forget they do that.

Actually, no on both counts. A fuse will not blow at its rating no matter the size even if it's built to do so like a "quick blow" fuse is. The current flowing will have to be over the rating to blow it and over that rating for a given period of time. Obviously the higher it is over the rating the less time it will take to blow, but that's how they work. Just because your alt isn't blowing a 300amp fuse I would not discount it's ability to output 320amps at all. First of all, how do you you've even put a load on it heavy enough to pull a full 320amps of current? Second, was it already hot? As the alt heats up it's output capability will be somewhat reduced. Third, IMHO 20amps over isn't going to blow a 300amp fuse on any day.

There's no good reason why you couldn't go ahead and get a ZCON and run it on 1200 watts. There's no such thing as underpowering, nor will too little power ever cause any problems. You could easily go ahead and get the ZCON and deal with upgrading the electrical for a bigger amp later, which is financially always the easiest way to acquire equipment, in steps.

Sounds like a great match for the sub AND your situation, good find.

Still hopin' to make it to the show this year, work is biting at my heels for next weekend so we'll see. Looks like it's about 60/40 in my favor at the moment.

Thats funny, and I know a few soldiers who wouldn't hesitate to do that themselves...

Yeah, ported in 1.55 cubes tuned at 34 hz. Not really pleased with how the box turned out that I made for the Mazda 3. I built the box with the port opening up and there is no way to get air into the cabin without having the backseat down. Right now the port is firing air right into the rear deck. Poor planning on my part. results in some odd frequency response and a great deal of rattling (I believe I can fix that) Well, my musical preferences are pretty much anything and everything. Listen to hip hop, alternative, classic rock, house/techno, even some country. My next box I want to make with the sub firing towards the front of the car with the port facing the same way. I would like to try and seal it off from the trunk as best possible. I am trying to save as much trunk space as possible, get as much sound as possible into the car, and either use the sub I have to get my desired sound or get some sub(s) to fill the job. I wouldn't mind keeping my sub, since it has been great for me, but am keeping my options open. Any feedback is welcomed. I highly recommend the ideas in bold to lots of people. If I were you I would keep the current setup, especially since it's still working well, and build a really nice spec'd box in the fashion mentioned above. Then, if it's STILL not giving the output you're looking for and you've done all you can with it, look into changing equipment. Then you'll know the measurements and techniques it will take to get the box just right in your car for whatever you upgrade to in the future. Just my .02 I'm a big fan of doing all I can to get everything out of what I already have before spending money on new stuff..... I'm a cheapskate in that regard....

I see this and it really makes me want to ask if it would be possible to trade my 3 never powered, never installed original run ones in for 3 of these....

In that case your best bet would be to install some bass blockers, however IMHO if you tune things correctly you won't need them. I've done this scenario many times for folks who either didn't want to or didn't have the money to buy a HU with built in crossovers or put an amp on the highs with its own crossovers. I idea being that you tune your Bass and Treble settings, or EQ, so that you can get the best sounding lowest distortion output from the highs. Then simply turn the gain up on the subs to level match with the highs and bring in the bass that you need. More or less.

I use automotive primers and paint in a spray gun on my enclosures. Rattle cans can work but it seems like it takes way more work to get a nice finish. Also, if you can, try to do the painting in a location with a little bit of environmental control. As anyone can see in the build log for the van, heat and humidity will "blush" the paint and make it nearly impossible to properly finish.

to the forum fellow Hoosier!! On your request for suggestions I would toss out the SSA DCON's maybe at 2 ohms on your amp, very impressive subs. Some used Fi SSD's would be nice as well, some Sundown SA-12's, or Skar VVX-12's. There's so many options out there for that power range, though the DCON's will really surprise you!

The high wattage dummy loads that PE sells are about as good as you can get. It depends on the testing that you're doing though as the dummy loads are not like a speaker, they're non inductive. The inductance of the voice coil on a speaker, it's movement through the motor structure and many other properties changes the impedance the amplifier sees. Depending on the type of testing you're trying to do you may not get the results you're looking/hoping for. EDIT: I read a little closer on what you wrote and I think I understand what you're trying to do. However, there's really no need to worry about the 8ohm load on the amp AND the power will be split between the speaker and the dummy load anyway so it's not going to get you any closer to what you're wanting to do. If your amp puts out 150wrms at 4 ohms, putting a resistor in with the speakers to get a 4 ohm load will not net you any extra power to the speaker. With the 4 ohm load the resistor and the driver will each see half the power given the impedance's are the same.

Happy Birthday dude! Had no idea ur birthday was so close to mine...

Wait.... that's not that big..... math is a little off, did a square root instead of cube root..... that's a cube approximately 43ft each side or 43'x43'x43'..... still hard to imagine that much going by every second....

I concur, the absolute power of water is hard to fathom. Not to mention the fact that 150,000 or even 80,000 cubic feet of water a second is completely unimaginable in any other context. Hell, its hard to imagine in that context. Look at it like this, a volume of water nearly the size of a the length of a football field CUBED is passing by a given point every second.

I have no idea what he was banned for either and I think most (or some) knew that me and him didn't co-exist the best on the forum, but I believe this to be a good idea. Everyone deserves a second chance and quite honestly the guy did seem to try hard to help people who were asking questions for help. Whether or not the info he was giving was right or wrong I can't remember, but I believe it to be noble of you to allow him back.

Glad to see things coming along bro... keep up the great work and keep having fun with it!

to the forum fellow Hoosier!! Good to see another, somewhat, local guy on here! I'm about an hour North of you, just outside of Vincennes. We need more 812 representation, lol.

to the forum!

I like the magnet boots, wish they were available when I ordered mine. Your daughter's just too cute BTW.

Can you get a pic with the door card off so that we can see what the door itself looks like beneath?

Awesome dude, glad to see this kicking off finally. I haven't seen what the door looks like behind the card but I still think getting away with 5.25's shouldn't be too hard and maybe 6.5's if you get real ingenuitive with it. Also, BTW you're girl looks like she's a cutie. I'm tuned in bro.