altoncustomtech

Another one I missed.

yep.... all you need is the HTTP plus the :// thesitename.com/whateverfolders/picture.jpg to copy paste into the button.... you can use the IMG and /IMG too... but it can't have anything but the straight link inside it....

I noticed in the first post that you also had text there that stated "Shot at 2011-07-12" you can't have that in the link....

At the top of the editor window there's some buttons.... next to the smiley face there's one like a chain, which is for HTML links.... the one that looks like a polaroid is the one for pictures.... simply copy/paste the picture link into the box that pops down when you press the button.... Make sure you don't have any accidental spaces or characters unrelated to the link at the beginning or end of the text or it will reject it...

There's one I missed...

Heres the box A little weight for the baffle Dont have a razor, so i improvised for the carpeting here it is installed, hopefully i can get a vid of it flexing my truck i just need to find a better camera than my cell phone. There ya go...

Hold on one momento bro.... copy the link.... click the picture button on the editor bar and paste it...

damnit... stupid computer.... ignore this post.. May as well make the most out of the screw up.... GO Fi!!!

Out of the three my vote is on the Audioque as well, though I have to admit my opinion is a little biased since I got one for sale, lol.

I think four 10" DCON's is a great way to go as well, and they're ALWAYS the option of upgrading down the road to say four SSD's or BL's and strapping in another 2K amp and really getting crazy with it, lol. Also, that little difference in tuning and may or may not be very audible. What I would do is use a sealed sub setup to find out what frequency the car peaks at, then have one set of ports for tuning to sound good and another set to tune it for getting loud or competing.

Here's a couple more videos, this time with a real video camera. Quality still sucks cuz I'm trying to get used to the settings on the video conversion software so I'm not trying to upload 400+Mb files. Still working on camera settings too. In the first video the image stabilization was on and it could barely show the subs moving. In the second video it was off and it caught the subs moving decent but couldn't catch anything else moving. I also tried to do a little paper trick on the second video and the camera didn't catch shit there either, so both videos turned out lame IMHO but hey it's just for fun anyway.

Here's all the pictures I have up to now. Constructive criticism is welcome. If you have a snide comment or remark, well, I'm probably not going to respond to that. Here we go.

There's a lesson in how the equipment works that needs taught here I believe. Subs don't "pull" power or put a "strain" on any amplifier. Now, that doesn't speak to the impedance the amp is seeing, I'm just referring to the fact that speakers are stupid. They do as they're told and are in no way an intelligent device that uses, pulls or requires power to operate. Now, if you wire any speaker(s) to any amp and the impedance is less than the amp is rated for it will stress the amp, but that has NOTHING to do with the wattage the speaker(s) are rated at. You can put a 10,000 watt speaker on a 1 watt amp and it won't stress that amp any worse than it would a 10,000 watt amp, it just won't get as loud obviously. As long as whatever subs you get have a final impedance that didn't go below 1 ohm it won't matter if they're rated for 300wrms or 2,000 wrms it's not going to stress the amp any differently at 1 ohm. And I'll admit I'm biased, go with Fi....

WOOHOO!!!!!!! Now that's awesome!! Killer Q coming right up!

Yes, yes I do.

Okay, let's try this again. In the chat room.

Got a hell of a deal dude!!

Oo yeah I kno but believe me I'm not going to have any problems wit the batts being there Ive worked around batts for some time now agms don't just blow up like a explosion covering them will be good enough I think he meant "missile" as in they could fly around the cabin in the event of a wreck or roll over, that's a ton of weight in those batts. Otherwise, to the forum and holy crap that's got to be insane to sit in. I second the "Hell of a first post" comment, LOL.

Yep, I'd go get the trouble code(s) read and see what's up. There's no distributor, but there's still plug wires, spark plugs, an ICM and coil packs that can give misfires when going out. There's also the possibility it could be a throttle position sensor, EGR valve and numerous other sensors that can cause such a symptom. The code scanner is your friend, embrace it and it will guide you back to a well working vehicle, lol.

Look at it this way, it will likely need reconed anyway, I wouldn't hesitiate to go poking and prodding around on it and seeing if it could be temporarily repaired. I wouldn't be real pissed, look at it like this. It's 3 yrs old and a subwoofer which sees a fair amount of mechanical movement on a regular basis and is therefore going to be susceptible to mechanical failure. After 3 yrs of regular use one of the most moved parts of the assembly finally gave out and could even have had a small imperfection (sorry guys, but it can happen) that helped it too. It's nothing to be happy about, but it's not something that can't be completely unexpected. One good way to look at it is that when you're done reconing it the sub will be just like brand new! lol

On your question about the grounds, grounds are grounds. In the audio realm if it is to be grounded then it's best the equipment is grounded at the same point. The rubbing sound was most likely exactly what you think it was, the lead coming off. I like the build and while you didn't have much of a choice on the amp mounting perhaps you can get a creative impulse and figure something out. You can use a putty knife, pocket knife or a razor blade to clean off the glue, some contact cleaner or mineral spirits will help cut some of the adhesive too.

It can very easily be something other than the transmission. A common problem that causes a vehicle to buck and toss up the check engine light is a misfire due to bad plug wires or spark plugs. I don't know what kind of vehicle it is, but if it has a distributor the cap and rotor could be worn as well or a coil pack or the ICM (ignition control module) could be going. There's several things that it can be, a little extra info might help like the year make and model of the vehicle. Take it to Autozone or Advance Auto parts or one of those places that can put a code scanner on it for free and see what the code is. If it's a misfire code then it's definitely ignition system related, if not then it can help pinpoint the problem for sure.

I'm going to go out on a limb and am likely going to sound like a real dick here. You're "new to the game", your own words right? Please listen and answer the questions that everyone is asking you. You're already beginning like a lot of the bunches of the young new members we've seen on come on here who ask a question like this, then totally disregard what gets said and recommended to them. You may have had your mind made up before you asked for a recommendation here because some friends are telling you this sub or that amp or this design is the best, but NO ONE here is going to be recommending anything to you that will lead you wrong, and if someone would happen to the other members would catch and correct it because we're like family here and we do care. Now that the rant is over, how much experience do you have with car audio? I am assuming the RE 5000 watt amp you're looking at is the XTX 5000.1 which is rated 2500wrms @ 1ohm, 1700wrms @ 2 ohm and 1000wrms @ 4 ohm. I also assume that you had planned on running those Powerbass subs wired to 2 ohms on the amp for 1700wrms of power. While that would be a decent match of equipment your planned starting electrical setup will be very marginal at running it. If this is your first system then listen to these guys and do something a little different. I think you could get by spending a little less money and be happier with the results without stressing the electrical system so badly. Lurker had suggested the DCON's or Fi X's, which are both great subs that fall in your budget. They don't require tons of power to sound good and get loud either at 300wrms and 250wrms rated handling respectively. There's also the SD-2 series of subs coming out very soon by Sundown and Ascendant Audio has the Arsenal series subs, both of which are rated at 500wrms or the SA series or DC Audio Level 3's which are rated at 600wrms and a pair of any of those wired to 4 ohms on that amp would be a great match and not be quite as stressful on the electrical either. Do you already own the amp? If so then those are some good considerations, if not then the DCON's or X's would be great on a smaller, less expensive amp. There's so many brands and a multitude of equipment offered by them that it can be somewhat overwhelming when you're looking at new equipment and don't have direct experience with it. It's even tougher when someone recommends something to you that you nor anyone you know have ever used or listened to. I stress though that no one on here is going to recommend anything to you that we ourselves have either not owned, used, listened to or had some experience with and not know it to be a good, dependable, worthwhile piece of eqiupment.

As I said in the other thread, I think you can handle the recone just fine. Still sucks about the sub though. The fix on the HU may seem ghetto, but necessity is the mother of invention, it works.

Dude that sucks about the Q, but like you said at 3 yrs old it's hard to say for certain how much anything was worn or exactly what may have happened with it yet. I think you could handle the recone on your own. Some people use plastic shims, other's use note cards inside the coil gap around the pole to center the coil. It doesn't matter much what you use as long as it doesn't leave any part of it behind in the gap and holds the coil centered with even amounts of it around the gap. The rest is just gluing and making sure the glue job is a good one. Otherwise you can always send it in to Fi and have them to recone it. I'm really glad you found the issue with the noise. While coil feedback was a possibility, I thought it was odd it was making noise in the radio.