altoncustomtech

How many ports?

That's cool... I'm so much of a damn hermit though, I'll probably just spend most of the time at the hotel or maybe the beach, it's not that far away ....

wow..... well... at least it's in the ballpark.... any good sites to see in the area that you know of?? other than the beach?? and bikini's!!!!

The city of Lake Forest. It's SE of Santa Ana and Irvine on the map. Other than that.... I dunno...

Just a guess, but the tapping noise could have well been the amp giving out. Best thing to do to be certain is hook the sub up to another known good amp and listen for any sign of the noise again. IMO if the coils are both reading 1.8 it's most likely the amp was the culprit.

That's a lot of volume available, plenty for a couple of 15's ported. The problem I see with the available measurements is that you won't be able to use a slot port enclousre IMO. The 15" subs will have use ~31.5" width side by side and you only have 34.5 width inside the enclosure. That leaves you with only 3" available for port width and at 17.5" enclosure height max (16" inside) that's only 48sqin of port area and just not enough for a pair of 15's to me. You'll likely need to look at using Aeroports or slide the subs to each side of the enclosure and use triangle shaped ports at the top and bottom between the subs, maybe. Otherwise I like 32hz tuning on the Q's myself.

I assume you mean one cut and made from MDF, Birch, or some other wood. I have them in my van, and have them cut and ready to install for my Jimmy. It stands to reason that having a heavy, solid place to mount the driver will help reduce resonances and help overall output by not losing the driving force of the motor into a flimsy baffle. Or, at least those were the reasons I've read and done it for and there's definitely a noticeable difference between a good MDF baffle and the factory plastic or sheet metal of the door IMHO. So I feel it's worth it, others may disagree.

Thanks man! Thank you sir, and you're right it can be done any time. When his son gets to driving it regularly I'm sure there will be much more work done. I couldn't believe it fit either. Not only did it fit, but there's 1/0 AND 4awg stuffed in that one side. Although I did move the factory wires that ran through that side to the other side of the track, it still simply amazed me that it worked.

This little build here is for a co-worker. He bought the old Hifonics equipment out of the van from me and plans on giving this truck to his son to drive in about a year or less. The system was designed on a fairly short budget, though he didn't want to cut many corners there's still almost $1,000 in it. Equipment consists of a Hifonics ZXi 6006 amp for the components, a Hifonics BXi2006D sub amp, a pair of 12" Hifonics Zeus subs, CDT COM-626 6.5" 2 way components and a JVC KD-HDR60 head unit. He purchased a "custom" enclosure from ebay for an easy fit under the rear seat. It's a sealed enclosure totaling 2.2cuft. net volume (according to the manufacturer) and he raised the rear seat himself ~3" and mounted the amps to the top of the enclosure. Before you ask, yes he understands the heat problem associated with doing this and will have the bottom of the seat raised when playing the system hard or when the temperatures require it. It has KNU 1/0 and 4 gauge CCA wire ran for the amps so there's room for future upgrades, the subs will be wired to 2 ohms on the 2006D and I'll be wiring the BIG 3 as well. While it's not a real bad-ass system or flashy by any means, it should be a great beginning setup for his son. Forgive me on the number of pics for this build. It's been VERY hot and humid here (heat indexes >110F) everyday and so I've been trying to make the most out of the time I spend working on it and unfortunately not as worried about getting the pictures. Here's a picture of the door panels off. I removed the factory mesh cover's and the factory tweeter plates from the door panels, removed the factory tweeter and cut holes for the CDT tweeters to mount into the plates. Here's a shot of the box he bought with the amps mounted to it and one of the subs resting there on the center hump. I also added poly-fill to the enclosure. Here's a general shot of the passenger side of the truck. You can see the RCA's coming out of the bottom of the dash, and the CDT woofer mounted there as well. Here's a shot of the driver's door with the CDT woofer mounted in it. I just have the wires looped up there to keep them out of the way. Quick shot of the JVC mounted in the dash. Here's a shot of the back of the cab stripped down for wire running purposes. Not much left to do here. Here's a shot of the finished doors. As you can see I kept as factory an appearance as possible there. All that's left is to finish placing the wires where I want them to run, get things hooked up, install the wires for the BIG 3 and tune it.

Yep, while spending thousands can yield a really awesome system, it doesn't necessarily take that much for most people. About $1k is enough to do it pretty decent and with the performance that can be gotten from today's equipment it can make the majority of people VERY happy. I've always liked doing budget builds myself. It's a fun challange to get all you can out of stuff you spent as little as possible on.

Don't ya think? LOL, couldn't help it. Congrats on the sponsorship man!!!!!!!!! :drink40: :woot:

Alright, got everything installed, hooked up and done last night. He and his son came to pick it up and were very happy with it. His son was very surprised with how clean it sounded. Apparently he has a cousin who's into car audio who's ride "sounds like a public pool full of fat girls farting in the water", those were his words verbatim, LOL!! So, they're happy it turned out pretty clean and the overall sound was enough to make them more than happy with it. My co-worker said his son spent around 2.5hrs playing with and listening to it last night after they got it home. As before, the pics are pretty limited, but they tell the tale so here we go. Can you believe the factory wire tracks had enough room in them to fit a run of Knukonceptz 1/0 AND 4 gauge CCA wire? Here's a couple of pictures of the wires getting routed to their intended locations. Got the rear driver's side trim panel and the back seat back in the truck. Here's a couple of shots with everything wired up and ready to rumble. Overall it didn't turn out too bad to me. The subs are horribly choked by the box configuration though and that really seemed to mess with some of the response and output but I don't believe anyone with less building, tuning and listening experience would ever notice without a side by side comparison. The CDT components were decent as well and showed the limitations I expected for their intended price point. First was the tweeters which were quite bright, almost to the point of annoyance on some songs. Even with some fine EQ tweaking they seemed had a tendency to want to shriek on some music. The other thing I noticed was the mid-bass's inability to handle almost any bass frequencies at all. CDT shows in their specs a power handling of 150wrms WITH a crossover point of 100hz. I have to say it seems as though the power handling drops off significantly with the crossover anywhere below 100hz which was a little disappointing. Luckily in the sealed enclosure the subs were up to the task of stretching that high with little localization to them, which was plenty good enough for the boy's first setup. Overall it should make him plenty happy until his craving for more bass starts to take over, at which time I believe we'll probably be removing the back seat all together and doing another build with different subs and components and a ported enclosure.

to the forum!!

I also completely agree, there's nothing wrong with headroom at all when it's used for the right reasons.

Better yet.... I punched this into WinISD real quick just to show everyone. These are drivers that are already in the program I used just for reference. Same manufacturer, same series both in whatever WinISD considers as optimal enclosures. They're rated at 250wrms and as you can see in the first example the 18 is considerably louder than the 10 on a 250watt signal. Now look at the power it took to get the 10 to the same theoretical output as the 18.... 1500 WATTS!!!! The driver will never take that much power, no matter the fancy enclosure or work that was done and is why using more power to get louder is simply the wrong way to do so.

i wanted harder hitting Then you should have gone with more or larger subs. There's no replacement for displacement when it comes to getting louder. As Denim and Stefanhinote had said, it's not the best way to go about it because it's not an efficient way to do so. You can use a program like WinISD to give you an idea about how much more power it takes to raise SPL levels. It's only a calculation, but it can show you what we're trying to say. Doing so you can see that in order to significantly raise the SPL level of a driver by power alone it will have to go well beyond it's thermal or mechanical ability to handle it. That shows in a glance that it's simply not the way to go. Besides that, "harder hitting" is a horrible way to describe what you're trying to achieve. If you want it louder and "harder hitting" you'll either have to add more 10's or get larger subs.

I'm with edub on the idiot running into the street. I really do have a lot of patience for idiots, but that's absurd. I would have cranked it, stepped out of the car and asked him what he was going to do about it, personally, I don't take idle threats very well at all. Ever hear the saying "Sarcasm is the body's defense against stupidity."?? I usually try to start with the sarcasm, it's up to them how it ends. The beauty panel is a great way to help make things look even better. Keep up the great work dude.

to the forum!

Thanks! LOL, I know. There's no way to get great from ~$300, hell it's hard to get good from that. I was glad to see him willing to spend a few dollars to make sure it was done right, that's for sure. I only wish he would have been willing to spend some on sound deadening. Oh well, perhaps in the future.

Yeah, I'd say lucky kid!! Took years before I could have anything near as nice as this. It should do him very well for awhile. Yeah, it's nice how well the factory setup allowed for the aftermarket installation. Thanks!! I sold him the Hifonics subs (w/ tube enclosures) and amps for $350, he's spent ~$650 for everything else. Really not too shabby considering all there is in it.

You can get 15% from THIS place, don't know anything about them though. I just did a quick search on the interwebz.

LMAO..... that's probably the first time anyone's said that to you isn't it?? Hell, I think that's the first time I've heard that as a complaint about ANY speaker...

LOL.... wish I could have gotten a video yesterday while we were driving it around for a guy who's looking to buy it for parts... He came over and was asking if the engine could start, how well it ran and if we thought the tranny was still any good. We all loaded in it and drove it to town (15-20 mins away) and tooled around town for several hours screwing around before heading back to the shop. The guy even drove it for awhile and commented on the fact that he couldn't believe how well it was driving considering the damage it had received. He put $20 worth of gas in it and we went through most of it if that tells you anything. He'll likely be coming back today to make an offer on it, LOL.