altoncustomtech

I'm going to be out that way for company paid training the week of the 12th in September. Would be awesome to meet up with some forum members and get some demos!!

I agree on CA&E, at least they actually focused on car audio... I'll have to check out voicecoil tho....

to the forum! You'll find all the information and answers to any questions you have here for sure!!

to the forum!!

There is absolutely nothing wrong with running less than rated power to any driver. Hell, there's nothing wrong with running more than rated power either. A person could destroy a 100watt speaker with 10 watts in the right scenario as well as put 5,000 watts to a speaker rated for 1,000. It's all in the design and responsibility of the person in control of the volume and gain knobs. You'll be fine running the sub with the SAZ-1500, with or without the cooling it's not going to bother a thing. As long as you're responsible with the volume and gain knob both will last you a very long time.

Happy Birthday dude!!!

A remix to what? The bass drum/line in that song is already enough to give anything without a subwoofer a heart attack and gives any subwoofer that's not up to the task a run for it's money.

I feel your pain bro... It's hard to deal with most shops in the first place, let alone some of the absolute idiot's that work in them or hang out there all the time. There's a lot of people who only deal with brands that are very well known for any reason you can think of from just not knowing any better or even that they don't feel comfortable taking a chance on something that they either have never heard of or cannot get any direct experience with. It's super common and there's not much we can do about it but continue to try and teach the masses.

That was absolutely AWESOME!!!!!! That's one CRAZY bastard!!

Dunno about other uni-body vehicles, but my Venture mini-van was horrible. Before I ran that separate ground wire from the front battery to the rear battery I tested the resistance at both points at a whopping 121ohms! After running that ground wire and grounding all the body seams together along that wire it's a nice 1.4 ohms which is much much better.

I did this in a way. I have a 1/0 cable running from the front battery negative to the heaviest metal in the rear of the van where the rear battery grounds. I have that cable connected to ground lugs at each point along the body where the sheet metal is overlapped and spot welded together. It's definitely overkill but solved quite a few electrical issues I had with windows, door locks, etc. operating correctly and that way I know the ground is solid and probably cannot be improved upon. I doubt it would do much if anything just to help an amp, but it is commonly done for multiple battery setups from what I've seen. I figure it's got to help on vehicles without full frames under them too, like my mini-van. In vehicles without a full frame there's only the body's sheet metal to transfer the current where a full frame is heavy steel and can handle lots of current flow with much less resistance. You didn't mention the vehicle you're doing this in, but I doubt it would be worth the cost and trouble with only 4awg wire, and especially if it has a full frame under it like a full size truck. 95Honda simplified it much better...

I'm tuned in CHOP!! Looking forward to seeing how them SA-8's look in it and as I said before, I feel sorry for them poor little AB 8's on that 2200, LOL.

I voted for A due only to the "different" factor, I just don't see a lot of boxes done anything like that. It still has a bunch of port area and I like the symmetry.

Them grand kids are somethin' else chop... that face is priceless and the smile on that lil girls face would melt anyone's heart!!

Option 1 is the best way to go, and with that much power on tap to those neo's they'll get more than loud enough.

Not without putting your tweets/horns on another amp and bridging the 100.4 to each side.

The stereo image is the sound "image" you hear with certain instruments, effects or singers on the left side of the stage with other instruments, effects or singers on the right side of the stage. For most music to sound right it takes a blend of the left and right from their perspective sides for the right image. There's a lot more to it than that, but the simplest explanation I can come up with is FM radio. Most HU's have an "ST" indicator on the display and if you've ever listened to a station where that indicator goes off and on and the difference in the sound of the music when it does so is the difference between listening to a stereo signal and a mono signal.

The amp is rated 320wrms bridged into 4 ohms and with both speakers connected each will see 160wrms, but I really don't think you need to put that much power to them first of all and second bridging the amp to the speakers will ruin the stereo image since it is a mono signal at that point. I'd go ahead and leave them hooked up normally, they'll still get plenty loud and it won't ruin the stereo image either.

That movie is a classic. My kids love it, along with other good movies from that era like Short Circuit, Harry and the Hendersons, Howard the Duck and many more, but the Goonies is just hard to beat man. BTW, sorry to hear about the bad luck dude. Hope things start to turn around quickly for you.

WooHoo!!! Yes, the SSA store and the guys behind it are #1!!

Sounds as though the center of the input that clamps around the pin could be a little worn out. If you can get to it with a pick or small screwdriver you might be able to bend them back in a little and get a better connection. If that's not possible then taping it is about the only solution. If the RCA's on the amp are a little worn out you should be able to recreate the problem by wiggling them, if not then your problem lies elsewhere IMO. Try bending and messing the the RCA cables themselves, grab/pull/yank on the speaker wires as well in various locations you can get to them to make sure you don't have something wrong in that area. You could also switch the RCA's around and see if it changes the speakers it happens on. If it does change then it's in the RCA cables, your HU or anywhere in between, if not then it could possibly be in the amp itself. Hope that's at least a little help.

The "Q" changes the amount of frequencies that are effected on each side of the EQ point. Say you have the EQ frequency set to 80hz for an example. As you adjust the Q up and down the "width" of the frequencies above and below 80hz changes. That allows you you tailor how much you want the 80hz EQ setting to affect the overall sound, basically. I'm having a hard time finding the right words to explain it. With the Q set all the way one way, the EQ may only affect a small band of frequencies centered around 80hz making it almost the 80hz only. Set it to the other extreme and it affects a much wider band centered on the 80hz, maybe more like 70hz to 90hz would also be adjusted when you adjust that EQ band. I'll be amazed if that makes sense to anyone else other than me, I really wish I could figure out a simpler way to explain it.