ls1pimp

Huh? All i can describe the noise is when i turn it up, the sub makes a loud "pway pway" nosie. And how do i tell if the spiders are "ganked"?

Well the sub shouldn't not be bottoming out anyway when i try to crank it up. My infinity perfect NEVER bottomed out, but this one does constantly when i crank it up. I just read that thread about the guys messed up RL-i's and it sounds liek i am going through the exact same chit he is. If the sub is reaching full excursion and bottoming out, why isn't it even loud? That other dude said he put it in a ported box and it still went to full exursion and bottomed out, i don't want the same chit to happen to me.

Oh, and I forgot to mention another important thing. When i crank up the volume on my HU, the sub begins to bottom out and clip very loudly (so loudly i can hear it over the bass and the speakers). What is up with that? I tried lowering the gain a bit, but all that does is kill the bass.

how big? I was told either 1.5 or 2.0 at 34 hz. I still wanna retain a certain amount of sound quality for the rock i listen to, but i want mostly to maximize SPL out of this sub. ALso, who on this forum makes good affordable ported boxes? I was told on another board that someone here makes nice boxes.

ok. My other question, and more importantly, should stick with this sub, or will it be on the brink of blowing out all the time with the amount of power i am sending it? Would i be better off waiting for the LMT or getting a XXX or something with 1200 watts?

Do you guys think I even bought the right subwoofer for my application? I wanted a sub that would take 1200 watts rms all day and be fine. Did i make a wrong choice going with an RL-P?

tommorow me and my friend are gonna rewire the power to the battery. Im really hoping that fixes the lack of output problems, otherwise that is really gonna suck.

One of the shops i brought it too also told me that moving it to the battery won't do anything, becuase if the amp wasn't getting enough current from the Fuse Box, the protect light would be on (which its not). What do you guys think about that?

Ok i see. Do you think rewiring it to my battery will make a noticeable change? I ran my Perfect and JL Audio 250/1 amp off the fuse box and it sounded fine, but also that was a 250 watt amp, this is a 1200 watt one.

I already spoke to Mike Via email, and he told me it sounds like the box, but honestly if he would hear it in person, I think he would either tell me i had too high expectations for SPL for that sub, or that the box isn't causing the problem. Also, i noticed that whoever wired my Power wire has it wired to the Auxillary Fuse Box and not my Battery (I have a Nine.1 and NIne.2 in my car). Even though the amp is still measuring the correct voltage, could that be causing the problem?