carguy83

i recommend going bigger and more port area. i have my 15 rl-p in a 2.5 net tuned to 30 hz via two 4" aeros, and i still get a bit of port noise. already designed my new box. i just gotta find time to build it. it'll be 3.5 cu ft tuned to 30 hz with 53.625" of port area. i think it'll help with the sub's output.

Right now, I'm running the RLp in a 2.5 ported box, tuned to 30hz via two four inch aero's. The output is pretty decent, and the response is still fairly linear. Right now, I'm itching to redo my trunk...again...to a bigger box. I plan a 3.5 cu ft tuned to 30 hz, with 57.75 sq inch of port area. Will I notice a big increase in output? I already drew out the box plans, just debating if I want t go through with it since school is a b*tch right now. Any insights is appreciated. Thanks.

cool, thanks for that reply. hopefully i don't lose too much low end with a 30 hz tune. i picked up some resin and some glass mat today (to strengthen the kerf bend). i'll start on it as soon as i have some spare time. i'll take pics as well and post them.

thanks for the reply mike but yeah, i need to do something besides studyin or else i'm going to go crazy... yeah i was debating a 28 hz tune to keep the output linear. would a 2 hz difference cause that big of a noticeable peak in the response? i'd figure 30 was a decently low tune, although i have built boxes with a 28 hz tune in my previous setups...and the low end was insane.

i have a similar box. 2.5 @ 30 via two 4" aeros. no port noises, but i'm not sure since you'll be using 1.

a damp cloth does the trick for me. the cones are so vulnerable to smudges.

Well, I got bored with my trunk. And since I'm currently waiting for my head unit to come back from warranty, I decided to redo my trunk. I don't think i'm going to make it look "as" presentable...but more on the functional side of things. Anyhow...I was itchin to go ported for some time now, and I think I'll follow through this time. I'm going to make a 2.5 cu ft tune to @ 30 hz using two 4" aero ports. Yeah the box may seem a bit small for a ported 15, but it's still within the sub's recommended box volume. The box won't be as deep as my old one...in attempts to get back some trunk space. Heres what it looks like before: And now...after today... Front baffled removed, and amps taken off their mounts. Box layed down so I can get the sub out. It made taking out the box much easer without 32 additional pounds bolted to it... The mess after I untied everything...only the lonely 2100-XXK still connected. Look at all that space! (Don't worry, everything will be neat and clean during the install.) Old box. In case you're wondering, the inside is shiny because there's a layer or two of resin. The dynamic duo. Don't they look nice together... More pics to come...

they're actually not in use. those speakers are the factory subs, which i've unplugged when i did my audio install. i've yet to figure out how to get the rear deck off so i can take them out. but yeah, the pressure from the ports are making them bottom out. sounds quite nasty. my rear fills are in the rear doors.

test fit the box today. looks like i gained 4-5 inches of depth. woot for more trunk space! also got the head unit back. i'll have a quick listen tomorrow.

well ups guy came today and dropped off my ports from parts express. those things looks much bigger in person then in the pics you'll see online. i added 4 more screws to each top piece. it helped with sealing it to the wood. terminal installed. camera flash on... flash off.

Thanks Denim. Yeah it looks kinda cool, but it was lacking a bit of output being sealed up and the faceplate blocking all the pressure to the rear of the trunk. The "port" that was cut into the faceplate helped a bit, but not enough for my liking. Got the box built today. Pretty straight forward and simple build, since I'll be using Aeroports. It's basically a large sealed box at the moment. When I get the Aeroports, I'll cut out the holes and mount them. But for now...more pics... Using 3/4" birch this time instead of MDF. The stuff is much lighter, but more expensive and splinters. But it's worth it. My table saw is acting goofy, so I just used a cordless. Used a piece of wood as a guide to get straight cuts... ...and it works rather well. Just make sure the guide is even and you're set. Pieces all cut and ready for assembly. First two panels. The box is held together with Elmer's carpenter glue...and some screws. It's coming together nicely... Sub hole still needs to be cut out. Can't really do anything until the damn ports arrive.

No, the port length is going to roughly double. More port area -> more port length. cool, thanks for the clarification.

Been itchin to go ported for a long time now, since I've never heard my RLp 15 ported before. Whats the smallest volume (before port area) would you guys go for a ported setup?

does the port length decrease in half if i went with two aeros?

i'm itching to try some aero's from parts express. i've always used slot ports in the past whenever i'm doing a build, but i think a big round port would look pretty cool when next to the RLp. question is, will a single 4" aero be sufficient? or should i opt for a pair of 4" aeros?

See sig... Itching for some external processing now. I'm eyeing the Arc Audio XEQ 7-band EQ.

damn, sexy looking sub. i'm quite pleased with my RLp 15, but i wonder how an 18" in a nissan maxima would sound like... i still like the nekked cones better.

nice box! how much airspace is each sub seeing? they look so much bigger than my RLp 15 for some reason. glad you're loving the subs.

I have several small dents in my cone as well. It doesn't really bother me, and performance isn't affected what-so-ever.

Eh, I don't see the RL-p as a SPL competitor. It's more of a LSQ. But anywho, I metered 137 dB sealed, with 300 watts (at that time) on the new TL mic. The mic was placed in the passenger kick, driver door cracked open, engine running.

Just out of sheer curiousity, has anyone ever polished their RL-p's cone to a mirror finish? It seems like a pain in the butt, but would look rather interesting when completed. But I don't know if I'll like the look of a bigass concave mirror sitting in my trunk... I've been toying with the idea for quite some time now, just never had the balls to do it. They don't make the plain logo-less RL-p anymore, and I don't want to fubar mine up.

Is there anything that I can use to remove the paint without damaging the aluminum?

have a good one Mike.

bass can be addicting. i remember when i had my brahma 12 sealed, and itching to go ported. and when i did...my car was never the same again. that sub literally shook panels loose.

Got my RL-p 15 in a 2.0 net box, and the sub sounds absolutely amazing in it. It's getting roughly 1000 watts. Like Mike mentioned, shoot around 2.0 net and you'll be straight.