hondakilla98

So i've been working on dimensions and box calculations and here is what I've come up with so far. Box outer dimensions with double baffle 41"wide, 10.5"tall, 17.875"deep gross box volume 3.214 cu ft sub displacement .08*3=.24 cu ft Slot port tuned to 33.6 hz 39.7" slot port volume .827 cu ft slot port wall displacement .14 cu ft total port displacement .96 cu ft 3.21 gross box volume -.24 sub displacement -.96 port volume -.02 for 2 vertical dowels 1.5" diameter -.01 for front wall to port wall dowel 1.5" -.015 for front wall to back wall dowel 1.5" -.04 45'd corners 1.925 cu ft net tuned to 33.6hz .64 per sub 500-550 watts per sub Which is right in line with Jacob's power vs box size post.

I am picking up 3 SA8 motors and would like get some baskets and recones for them. I'm wondering what my options are, since I've seen v1 and v1.5. I'll be running these off an saz-1500d in a town car with a 240 amp alt, deka starting battery, deka 9a31 in the trunk, big 3, 1/0 wiring throughout etc... I want to wire these to .66 and want to know how big of a box I should go with and how much port area I need. This will be a daily driver, and will be turned down most of the time. I was thinking 2 cu ft net tuned to 34 with 30-35 sq in of port area. I looked in another thread and the recones were listed as $32 and baskets were $10, let me know if those prices are still good.

Lol. Either way, he wouldn't "need" more amps. Especially not on the electrical he listed.

I've been underwhelmed with the last couple rf subs I've had. They were ok, but nothing amazing. For $350 I'd look at a fi Q, or an ssa icon 15 ported.

So the first trophy pic was with lotion, and this one is with paper towels. Lol, do they sit next to each other on the shelf? Two trophies with lube and cleanup? JK. Congrats on the win. It sounds like your next purchase should a meter.

Well a good deal has helped me make a decision. I'm getting 3 SA8 motors from Steve to recone into D4s. Now to decide on a box design. I'm thinking 2 cu ft tuned to 33hz with 2 4" aero ports, running @.66 ohm off my SAZ-1500D. It will be turned down most of the time, and when I want it loud or to show someone what 8's can do I'll be able to turn up the gain. It looks like I should have a 240 amp alt soon, and I already have a deka 9a78 starting battery and a deka 9a31 for the trunk.

I currently have 2 SA10's in 2.5 cu ft net tuned to 32hz. They are running at 1 ohm off an SAZ-1500D. I'm pretty happy with them, but the box is the wrong shape to fit where I want it. This is going in an 03 Lincoln town car on the hump behind the seat on top of the gas tank. I have 41" of width, 18" of depth, and 10.5" of height. So I should be able to get 2.5 cu ft net, but just barely. One reason I'm considering the skar subs is that I get a free box. I can get 4-8's in a custom ported box shipped to me for $500. Or 2-10's for $380. I've been thinking about 8's since the sa8 came out. And the box would look nicer for 8's since I could do a flush mount baffle. I don't have enough height to flush mount the 10's. I figure output should be similar either way.

Nice looking block Steve.

That's a good point. I'll have to see if I can make it a little taller.

My mind isn't made up. I'm just looking for opinions besides. "you're itching to waste money" So far I've heard build a new box from two people. That's it.

the same dude designed both subs and given that they are priced similarly i doubt you will even hear a difference. sounds like your just itching to spend (waste) money. Jacob has posted before that the SA and VVX lines are quite different. I think I'll take his word on that. As far as wasting money, I'm not going to build a box, so I'm looking about $150 for just a box. Or $380 for two subs and a box. I think I could sell either pair of tens for $230. So then I get to demo subs for free, and decide which ones I like better. For the same money.

At first I was just going to build a new box. Then I thought, why not get the skar 10's with the free box and have both sets of 10's to listen to. And then sell whichever ones I don't want. Then I'm out about $100 for a custom box and I get to listen to some different subs. To build a box will cost me almost that much. The 2 sa10's are more output than I new, and I've read that the VVX is a better sounding sub.

This is looking amazing, too bad I live so far away.

I'm running 2 sa10's in 2.5 cu ft net tuned to 32hz with 40 sq in of port area on a sundown 1500d. I'm very happy with the output and SQ. On your 1200 I'd go a little bigger on the box, 2.75-3 net.

If you're running a sub, I'd get the components. That's what came stock in the back deck of my town car, 6x9 components. Just make sure to deal them off from your subs.

I've tried googling this and didn't get very far, mostly headlight wiring harnesses. What is involved with this mod?

If you want to make it stronger, why not give it a coat of fiberglass? Even just a coat of resin would strengthen it up somewhat.

Can someone give me a rough idea on how big a bandpass setup would be for 2 sa10's? I'm interested, but doubtful. On a positive note, I'm up and running with my ported setup. Output isn't bad, definitely more than the stock speakers can keep up with. Now I'm going to remove the factory sub, which will open up a decent sized hole in the rear deck and I'm going to cut the OEM MLV from the gas tank up, to help with transfer. Depending on how it sounds with these small changes I may just run sub back and port back with the OEM sub and 6x9 holes open.

I'm almost up and running with 2 sa10's on a sundown saz-1500d @1ohm in my Lincoln. I have a box I built for my Cadillac, that is 2.5 cubes with 40 sq in of port area with a slot port. I'm going to run this for now, down in the well of the trunk. Here's a pic. I want to build a new box that sits on the hump behind the seat. I'm not going to run rear fill or the factory sub. So I will have two 6x9 holes on each side and a sub hole that is 6-8" in the middle. First question is what size aeros to run. Will 2-4" or 1-6" be enough port area? Or maybe 3-4"? Second question, how to port through the rear deck? The box will be 10.5" tall and the bottom of the rear deck is about 16". Do I just place the Ports under the holes and call it good? Or run the Ports up to the rear deck and have them try to blow through the factory carpet? Or cut holes in the carpet, run the Ports up to the deck to blow through and put grills over them so it looks like 1-3 speakers on the rear deck. Depending on how many Ports I run.

I was going to order some more wire today. But knukonceptz is out of stock on black 1/0 CCA. So I guess I'll wait. I'm not too worried about the cat melting the wire. It's pretty far away and zip tied. I've run this same wire on the big 3 for my Eldo in some hot spots and had no problem. Next thing I'm focusing on is running my RCA's, and speaker wire to setup for my active front stage. And a remote wire, which I forgot before. I've got a jumper on it now that I have to disconnect everytime.

I ran a short frame to body ground, from the frame to the spare tire well. All of about 6". That seems to have fixed my problem. I need to order done more wire and do the big three. I may also put in my second battery, a Deka 9a31. So far I'm sitting at 13.9 volts at idle.running the system fairly hard only drops to 13.6. But I do have some dimming.

I hooked up my amp and I'm only getting 3 volts on my dmm. When I check my positive wire at the amp and use the body as the ground I get 12.8 volts. So should I add a body to frame ground? Or just ground to the body instead of the frame? I don't have enough write to do the big three right now.

Looking good Steve. That wall looks great.

I took out my spare after I talked to bigjon, and popped out a stock plug and replaced it with a grommet. I drilled a hole in the frame, and sanded it clean. Here it is installed from underneath. I ran it through the rubber exhaust hanger. An here's how far I got.

I got my sub box wired and loaded today, and ran my ground. Then it started raining. Hopefully tomorrow I can be bumping. I ran the ground under the spare through an existing hole. And drilled a hole in the frame. I'll post pics after they load.