hondakilla98

I used the calculator. And it says 120 sq in. With ports that big they have to be way too long to be feasible. So it looks like sealed is the way to go. The only way ports make sense is in a high tuned spl box. Then I could have enough port area and a port short enough to fit in the box. I used winisd to chart the sub and it doesn't look good. Did I do something wrong or read the graph incorrectly? The one that's nice and flat is the ported curve.

I just went to precision sound products and used their port calculator. It says with 2-6" aeros I'll need 27.5" ports. My max port length in that box is gonna be about 14". Can you put elbows on a round port to make it longer? And would I notice port noise in the car if i went with non aero's since the box is in the trunk?

I plan on running aero ports. I'm just going off what winisd said for port. I was under the impression that when you run aero's that the rule of 12-16 went out the window. So two 6" aero's? If your going to tell me what I'm planning is wrong then you should also tell me how to correct it.

Well now that I'm starting a new build for my new to me 95 cadillac eldorado. I'm not sure how much trunk I want to lose. And have alot of options to consider for subs and for install. Do I go sealed or ported, and if I go ported do I port though the rear deck into the cabin? I don't know. I see alot of subs in my future. I figure I'll just pick up the next good deal I find on a decent sounding sub. And go from there. I think I might start with a pair of SA-8's from Steve. So If you see a good deal, let me know.

I've been working on my system and slowly becoming more interested in sq than spl. So I guess I'm working on an ""SQL"" system. Loud and clean. Right now I've got 1 15" RE SX. And it sounds decent now and output is good. But I'd like cleaner. I have a friend that's intersted in my sub. So I've been trying to figure out what to get for a replacement. I can do about 4.5 cu ft net ported, or 6 cu ft sealed net. I'd like to spend under $400. I may have a line on a used 18" xcon. So that sealed or one 15" xcon ported, or maybe a par of used icon 15's sealed. I'm open to suggestions. Whatever I get will be powered by my saz-1500d. Or maybe 4 dcon 10's ported?

I was thinking the same thing.

Thanks for all the compliments. I should have some money out of my jeep to start buying my new system soon. Right now I'm trying to decide which deck I want. I'm looking at the ixa-w404 and the ixa-w407. Then i'll buy a 4 channel to run my mids, right now I'm leaning towards the dsc480. With the system in the jeep, I wanted more output, but the cadillac is so much quieter inside I dont' think I'll need more. Expecially since I plan on deadening the whole car and putting mlv and ccf throughout the cabin.

I'm working on a deal with a friend now. But I'm 90% sure it's sold.

Best part is, It has 91,000 miles and I only paid $2k. I love ebay.

I started on a new sub box for the RE SX15 in my 98 jeep grand Cherokee yesterday. It's 4 cu ft net tuned to 31 hertz, sub firing up, slot port firing back. This was my first ported box build, and came out alright. It still needs alot of finish work. I'll post pics later today.

I'm selling it to a friend with most of the system installed. I'll take out a few things, but most of it will stay. Now It's time to start building a new system for the eldo. I'll keep the 1500d, the kinetic hc1400, and maybe pull out the pxa-h100. Here's a link to the caddy, I bought it on ebay. Cadillac : Eldorado : eBay Motors (item 230463982895 end time Apr-28-10 20:00:00 PDT)

This is the last entry in this build log. I just bought a 95 cadillac eldorado, and I'll start a build log for it soon.

lol thats true. i dont know any forum where this term makes so much trouble. That's because it's so subjective. If he wants more low end and already has a ported box, that means he likes an overly exaggerated low end, which means a big hump in the frequency response between 30-50 hz. To somebody else, "SQ" means having a completely flat frequency response over the subbass range and likely using a sealed box to do so. I like how my sub sounds now, I just want it to be tighter and cleaner. I also want more output so when one of my friends checks out my system I can blow them away. Before I built my box, I'd never experienced the extreme lows like I have now. There's just something about 20-30 hertz that I love. So my next box will be ported even lower than I am now. So I can get those extreme lows without hurting my sub. I'm thinking around 27 hertz. And that's right on par with the xcon reccomended enclosures, unlike my sx which is reccomended at 34 hertz.

I've heard of mlv, but not llp. What is it? I'm guessing very similar or a different name for the same thing? Nevermind, It's Luxury liner pro. I did a quick couple of searches and didn't find anything.

I built a new box for the sx about two months ago, and it sounds much better. It's in 4.25 cu ft net tuned to 30 hertz. Re says optimal is 4 @34. So I'm pretty close to optimal right now. I also wanted a box that I could throw a 15" XCON in. Or a Fi Q or whatever 15 I chose. Because most 15's are happy in that size box and tuning. At least the ones I am interested in. I want more low end, and tighter punchier bass. I don't want an "SQ" setup. I probably shouldn't of even used the term, with as much crap as it stirs up on this forum. Another reason I'd like to replace the RE is it's a D4 sub. I'd like to get a sub or subs that I can wire to 1 ohm to get the most out of my amp. So tighter cleaner bass and more low end is what I want. Along with the ability to pound, and surprise whoever sits in my jeep.

I have a friend that's willing to work on a damaged eclipse 3242 that I have. He needs parts and can't find what he needs in the US. Here's the email I got from him, which is all Greek to me. If you know of a place to get these in the US let me know. Or if you know of an equivalent part I can use instead, that would be great. Hey Mospec is the company name. From what I found its a russian company that might not be arround anymore. I found a company that has F20C10A and F20C10C and the spec's say they are the same. but im not fully sure....both are SwitchMode Dual Fast Recovery Power Rectifier, 200V ,12A, 65c -150c, 3pin TO-220AB I.C's. You need 2 of each just to make sure... Mospec F12C10A Mospec F12C10C When I get home I'll post up a PDF file with specs he also sent me.

he checked two places online today, but hasn't physically called anywhere. He checked mouser and norvac. I'll have him try digikey. And yes he's just replacing what is physically damaged. I've had him repair three or four amps in the paste said he found the parts in Singapore for $8 each + shipping and a month wait.

My system is currently running active with a 9886, h100 and is powered by an alpine mrp-f250 [email protected] @4 ohm, my speakers are focal access series components(minus the passive crossovers). I have an Eclipse 3242 that I thought was a good amp, but turns out to have some issues. I bought the eclipse for $75 about a year ago and it's been sitting. It looks pretty beefy internally and has alot of fusing (4x20a) making me wonder if it's underated. It's rated [email protected] 4 ohm. And 55x4 @13.8v @4 ohm. I have a friend that can mess with it and hopefully fix it for around $20. I have three options that I would like help with. I can keep using the f250, fix the eclipse and use it, or buy something else. I was looking at the sax-50.4, but it's not any more power than the eclipse would be if i fixed it. So I started looking at the sax-100.4, and the alpine pdx 4.100. I'd like to spend under $200 on a replacement which puts the sundown out of my range and is pushing it with the alpine. I only have room for one front stage amp, so don't suggest running 2 2 channels. Right now I'm thinking i'll probably have my friend fix the eclipse, and wait untill I find a good deal on something 100x4. What's your opinion? Also if my friend can't fix the eclipse, does anyone know who works on old eclipse stuff? Here's a pic I pulled off the internet, mine looks like this but the three things circled are burnt. And there is some discoloration on the crossover board on the corner circled. I can't post a pic of mine as my friends house. Here's a pic of the later eclipse 32440 which has the same 4x20a fusing and is rated at [email protected] 4 ohm making me wonder if the 3242 is underated.

That crescendo looks like a good deal, and it'll go under my seat so i wouldn't have to look at it. thanks for the suggestions.

From what i've read the 50.4 does about [email protected]. So about the same as the eclipse, as far as the crossover goes the eclipse is the same. lp,hp,bp, on all four channels and on the pass through. Not that it matters, because I have the pxa-h100 to do that for me. I'll email dbr and find out. Here's a pic of the ends of the 3242.

Hell yeah, that song rocks. I love old school bass cd's. I finally gave in and downloaded the whole cd from amazon for $8 last month.

What do you guys use for music to tune with? The same song over and over, a couple of my favorite songs, or just put it on random? Music source? Cd or iPod? Tuning cd's of some sort?

I'll try that with the ta, like you said it's free. As far as the door panels go. It's a pretty cheap vehicle, I live in a good neighborhood and i can keep an eye on my car at work. So Low key isn't an issue. Especially since I have a 4 cu ft sub box in the back that isn't covered. My main concern was being able to put it back to stock when I sell the jeep. And I don't think a set of grills on the bottom of the door panels is going to detract from the resale very much. But mainly It sounds like a relatively cheap, and easy way for me to increase my midbass.

I've been trying to think of ways to fit a driver larger than 7". I think if I cut a hole in the door panel where the factory grill is and make an mdf spacer that goes from the door to the inside of the door panel. Then put an 8" grill on the outside of the door panel. That would give me a mounting depth of about 4.75" and the ability to run an 8" driver. And when I sell the jeep I can take out the mdf spacer. Put a cheap 6.5 in the door and just leave the 8" grill on the door panel. What do you think?

I kept the tweeters at the same height. But they are almost aimed at each other. I found a review of my speakers thy listed the crossover pint and slope as [email protected]. So as a starting point I put it to 12db@5khz. I turned the gain down on the tweets and it has also helped. When I have more time in the next few days I'll play with phase and crossover slopes. I set the ta with a tape measure already. Should I put it back to 0 untill I'm done tuning? Or leave it alone? I think I might work on deadening the doors and trying to seal them up as well as I can with sheetmetal. And worry about mlv and ccf later.