hondakilla98

Ordered 3-2 channel knukonceptz klarity RCA cables and a roll of 16 gauge speaker wire off eBay. Hopefully next weekend I can pull out my interior and run my rca's, speaker wires, and power wire. And start on my a pillar pods to mount my hds tweets. And while I'm under the carpet I'll put down some deadener.

Here's what I'm thinking.There will be a removable cover in front of the battery. And maybe one on top of the box. So when you open the trunk all you'll see is a carpeted box with two subs and a port. With the battery cover. Everyting black is carpeted. With a cover in front of the amps as well. everything black is carpeted.

I finally made up my mind on my subs and front stage. I just ordered 2 sundown sa-10's to run ported, tuned to 30hz in 2.5 cu ft net with 33 sq in of port area. And I bought peerless Nomex 830875 for my mids and Scan-Speak Discovery D2608/9130 hds for my tweets. Here are links to the mids and subs if anyone wants to check them out. Peerless Nomex 830875 Peerless Nomex 830875 - 6.5" Nomex Cone Woofer from Madisound Scan-Speak Discovery D2608/9130 hds Scan-Speak Discovery D2608/9130 1" Textile Dome HDS Tweeter from Madisound Sundown SA-10 Sundown SA-10 Pre-Sale - SSA Car Audio Forum I still need a second battery, Hi output alternator rebuild kit, rca's, a roll of 16 gauge speaker wire, and a sheet of mdf to build my box. I'm going to put the subs in the front of the trunk firing towards the back of the car. I have 38w, 18h, and 23d to work with for space. The box will be 29w, 14h, and 19d. With a group 31 battery mounted next to it and both of my amps mounted on top.

Paypal sent for 2 d4 subs.

Damn. I remember when that happened. Bad day.

Until they get here. Untill they get to you? I know It's last minute for the presale. But could I still get in on it? And if not how much are they gonna be?

Or maybe some pics of that nova in the background. I had an 87 lx 5.0 notch for a minute. I miss that car. I'm tuned in for the build.

I want clean sound and as much output as my old setup. Which was 1 re sx15 in 4 cu ft tuned to 30 hz running @ 2 ohms off my saz1500d. That's why I was looking at running three 12's sealed. I figure almost double the cone area with a little more power would give me similar output. Then I looked at the box plans and noticed that they only added 1 cu ft when they added a second sub. And Figured that for three would be 1 more cu ft. Coming out to 4.25 net for three. So I wanted to know if the box plan was wrong.

I guess what I'm asking is. If optimal for one dcon 12 is 2.25 cu ft. Then why is 3.28 cu ft optimal for 2 dcon 12's? I'm going off ssa technical box specs. And yes I'm asking about 3 dcon 12's ported.

If your going to be using an iPod or iPhone the alpine is the way to go.

Good looking sub. I'm thinking about three of these sealed running off my saz-1500d for my current build.

You could flush mount the subs in the box or make mdf trim rings to mount the grill on to space it away from the sub.

Maybe he sweeps and cleans the bathroom?

What? Get a sub, then make a box to fit your sub. Of course you'll need to make sure a box for the sub you choose will fit in your trunk.

Thanks for the springhill link. I've been looking for a cs144 hi output rebuild kit. That's the best price I've seen so far.

this. also try this if you want fast and simple: flared port/aero port calculator All that calculator does is account for the flare. It gives you the straight port length and then the flared port length. It doesn't tell you anything about port area. Here's a link to a recent thread about the same topic. The search function is your friend http://www.soundsolutionsaudio.com/forum/PSP-port-questionshelp-t39556.html&hl=psp+port

From what I've read. The "trick" is that everyone thinks that you need less port area with aero's.

IB is too much work, and I would end up making permanent modifications. I'll eventually sell this car, and with a sealed box I might be able to use it in the next vehicle. And not have big holes cut in the car.

I also tried to figure out what to do with my front stage. I'd like to run 8's in fiberglass pods in the doors and an xt25 or something similar in the pillar. I'm a little nervous about the fiberglass pods and cutting on my door panels. so another option would be dual 5.25's in the doors, which look like they would just fit. Here are some pics. and I mocked up the top of a taco bell cup for the tweeter. The cup is 4.25 and the xt25 is 4". So close enough.

I've been trying to decide what to run for a sub stage and how I'm going to organize my trunk. I'll have a second battery, saz-1500d, dsc4125, and subs all in the trunk. I'd like to keep my trunk as open as possible, so i'm trying to figure out how to do that. So to save space I've decided to go sealed. But to keep output I want more cone area, so now I'm thinking 3-12" DCON's. I want clean sound, a box height of 15" or less, to spend less than $400, and equalivent output than my old RE SX15 ported in 4 cu@31 on 800 watts. I think the 3 DCON's should be able to handle that, and sound a lot better. I'll buy 3 svc 4ohm subs and wire them parallel for a 1.33 ohm load. So with good electrical I should see 1100-1200 watts, or around 400 per sub. The box I'm thinking right now will be 38" wide, 15" tall, 15" deep at the top, and 17" deep at the bottom. Double baffle front, with two dividers/braces to make three separate chambers. Looks like after sub displacement I should net 1.19 cu ft per sub, which is right at optimal according to SSA. I'm debating on mounting the amps to the top of the sub box, or making an amp rack that hangs off the rear package tray. And I'm not sure about the battery, it'll probably end up in the rear passenger side behind the wheelwell in a carpeted mdf box. Here are some pics of the trunk.

They won't be out before the sale ends. How much power do you have at 2 ohms? I have an saz-1500d, so about 800@2 ohms. I'm sure 2 12's would sound fine with 400 watts each. But I want to get the most out of my amp and 2 ohm isn't it. It just seems like a waste to run a $500 amp at half it's potential. So I'll wait.

Are the dual 4 ohm voice coil subs going to be out soon? If so I might be interested in a pair of 12" ""SQL""'s.

Is there any difference between kinetic racing batteries and regular kinectic batteries? I'm looking for a trunk battery for my build and was looking at an HC2000, but I found a better price on the KR2712. Which looks to be the same battery but in a red case. I went to kinectic's site to look up the racing line of batteries. But they aren't listed anymore. Which I'm guessing is why the racing line is cheaper since it looks to be discontinued.

I got my iXA-W407, PXA-H100 and KTX-H100 from ebay. They are in as new condition. I also ordered a DSC4125 off ebay today. I looked at my front doors today and they have a plate with one 5.25" and a 1" tweet. Now I have to decide what to do with my doors. The speaker grill opening is only 6" accross. So I'm debating on what to do with the doors. I think I'll try my hand at fiberglass, or maybe see if I can cut out the door panel just enough to clear the speaker. But that will come after I get my power wire run, big 3 done, speaker wire, rca's, etc all in and ready. I don't want to go without any stereo any longer than I have to. I'm also looking at buying a second battery for the trunk. Since I'm leaving my HC1400 in the jeep and I don't think the HC800 will be enough.

I went and test drove a manual v6 genesis thinking it would be fast. And I was seriously dissapointed. I figured it would be close to the stock 96 z28 six speed I was driving at the time. Especially with the camaro not running 100%. It felt unbelievably slow in comparison. Same with the 350z I drove. Then again I'm comparing a 5.7 liter v8 to 3.5 liter v6's. So I guess I shouldn't be surprised.