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Everything posted by hondakilla98
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I have an old sub box that came with an RE SX15 I bought used. It is 3.1 cu ft net before driver displacement. It has 2-3" aero ports in it. 9" long. I used it before with the sx15 wired at 2 ohms on my saz-1500d. I never heard any port noise, but it didn't sound great. I later built a 4.25 net cu ft box for the RE tuned to 30 hz. It sounds great. Well I think I have a buyer for the RE and was wondering if an SA15 would work in the old box. It's about the right volume and tuning would be right about 35hz(recommended) but it's seriously low on port volume. I was also thinking I could put a third port in it for burps and bump tuning from 35-45hz. Not to mention increasing port area by 50%. Let me know what you think. This box would probably go in an suv. It's sub up, port back.
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What's your idea of "low end" you're missing? Like, are there certain tracks that lack? A known frequency range? An EQ isn't the answer to gain frequency bandwidth. Generally speaking, if you gotta add/cut more than 3 dB, you have an overall problem that should be addressed with the installation or equipment. I know eq isn't the right answer. But if he's too stubborn to change the box he overpaid for, he's going to end up with an unflat response. Which would then need eq'd out. Which is a band aid for a poor installation, but a possibility.
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Are 4 sealed subs in a non optimal box(2 of them anyway) going to be that much louder than two ported ones? And your trying to gain low end, by running more subs? Do you have the ability to eq the subs to do that? Otherwise your also increasing all the bass. Not just the low end. So if your set on using the box. Could you adapt it to take 2-10" subs instead of 12's? Your box volume sealed would work great for alot of 10's. And if it's a little big, you can put something in the box to drop volume. Then build an equally sized box for two more tens. And have 4 sealed 10's in optimal boxes. Giving you good output and great sound with good low end.
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But silk screen doesn't fall off. I'd rather have a decent looking logo that stayed on the sub, than a great looking one, half on the sub and half floating around the trunk.
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So I know your wanting to use the box you have. But if it's not optimal, why put over $1000 worth of nice equipment into a cheap compromised box? You could build a different box? Maybe 4 sa8's ported under the back seat. Like steve mead's silverado build. Or a pair of 10's in an optimal sealed box and then two more in the console. Or maybe 3-sa8's under the seat and three in the console? And if they are still selling them. The reconed sa8 seconds were $85 each plus shipping. So all 6 of them would be about the same price as a pair of icons. Which aren't even out yet.
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Last I heard it was. But he's out of vvx-12 untill the end of this month.
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Kinetik or Shuriken
hondakilla98 replied to Ohjay's topic in Amplifiers / Head Units / Processors / Electrical
I say, buy whichever brand you can get the best deal on. They are both quality products, so try to save a couple bucks to spend elsewhere in your build. -
how would a 12" DCON do in about 1.25-1.5 cubes on ~180 watts?
hondakilla98 replied to ppiflat10s's topic in Subwoofers / Speakers
Sounds like you'll be right around the optimal sealed enclosure. And if it's a little quiet. You can always upgrade your amp and double the power to around 400 watts. -
Looking good. Are you going to change any of the suspension?
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Texting and driving is illegal in my state, so this looks like a hard ticket to get out of. But if you can do it and not mess up then by all means, have at it.
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Well then it's too bad your not controlling this with an old phone. Lol.
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Are you going ported or sealed? Remember that you can't "underpowered" a sub. Just because you buy a 1000 watt sub doesn't mean it needs that much power to sound good. Also remember box size and power handling are related. So if you can spare some room for a bigger box, your sub can be happier with less power. You said that you will spend whatever you have to, to have good sound. Batteries aren't that expensive. And you can always build one into or onto your sub box. I have a ported box with two 10's. The subs are in the middle, there's a kerfed port on the left, and on the right is an empty space for my second battery. It's open on the back for access. But when you open the trunk all you see is carpet, subs and port. My amps will mount on top of the box, and I have a carpeted filler panel that trims from the top of the box to the bottom of the rear deck. Hiding the amps from view. Good luck with your decision.
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Where to put subs? What would u do?
hondakilla98 replied to cruzer23's topic in SPL & SQ / Fabrication
Why couldn't you run the sub firing up tilted to one side? And make the bottom of the box whatever size will fit between the seat and console? Maybe one sub that sits in the middle of the back seat. That you take out when hauling five people? -
Awesome build. I just read through the whole thing and I should've checked it out sooner. Too bad about the bumper though. I was wondering how it sounds. Did you close up the tiny port for the 15? And how does everything sound together?
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Need help on choosing this setup
hondakilla98 replied to wavey_crocket81's topic in Subwoofers / Speakers
I have 2 SA-10's in 2.5 cu ft net tuned to 32hz. They are running off an SAZ-1500d at 1 ohm. They sound great, and get loud. I'm really happy with this setup. -
If you want sealed performance, I'd go with the high qtc fi Q's. They're in your price range and have a lot of great reviews. And the 2010 and up models are happy in pretty small boxes. If you want small ported the sa15's seem to be popular in 3 cu ft. Pretty small box for a ported 15.
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Here's a pic of the back of the box. I'm going to put two small braces, one across the top and one behind the battery to secure it. And keep it from moving around. And the amps will go on top of the box. So when you look in the trunk, all you'll see is a box with 2-10's. No second batt, or amps. I'm looking for some nice grills that wont take away from the look, but will protect the subs, so I can still use the trunk.
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Here is a short vid of the first night I ran them in my jeep.
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Here they are when I picked them up from the box builder. He made the flush mount too small and had to open it up, so he installed the subs. Unfortunatly one of them is crooked. This is in the trunk of my gold 95 eldo. Right now the box is out and I'm sanding and painting the flush baffle black. There isn't enough white showing to look decent. So it's going to be black like the port. I'll even put both subs in straight, unlike my box builder.
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I got my tint dont today. 30% all around, but no visor.
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No. The Deka goes in the trunk. In the right side of my box in the back is a battery compartment. I have an interstate megatron up front. I got it from a guy in kentucky. I don't remember his name. He runs a small shop and bought a pallet of "blem" 9a31 deka batteries. I'll see if I can find his email. I think the batt was 110 but shipping was 65 since i live in oregon and the batt weighs almost 80lbs. I can get deka batts at a discount from a friend who's a mechanic now.
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I have an appointment at 10am to tint the windows. I think I'm gonna do the same tint I have on the other one. 30% all around. With a 5% brow on top of the windshield. Legal here is 35, but with the really light colored interior it needs to be a little darker.
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I didn't get any of this installed in the car. Which turns out, is a good thing. Here is the 95's replacement. 96 Cadillac eldorado etc with 81k. I couldn't be happier With this car. It's got a sunroof, vogue wheels and tires, pearl white paint, and it drives like new. So hopefully soon I'll be moving forward with this car, but same build.
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I'm working on a home theater sub. It'll be an aa avalanche 18 in an 21 cu ft llt tuned to 15 hz. I'm trying to figure out how to cut the complicated bracing in this box design. So I was thinking if I got someone to CNC the bracing I can cut the rest of the boards and will have a much easier build. Any suggestions are appreciated. Here is a link. And some pics of the design. I have the google sketchup file, and was wondering if it would be able to make templates of each piece and print them on a plotter. Then I'd cut them to size with a table saw and cut them out with a jig saw. Link to build post
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I'd say your going a little big on your box for the skars. I asked Kevin how big to go for one on 500 watts and he said 2.1-2.2. You'll have 50% more power. So you'll probably want to go with around 1.8 per sub. Or you can take it easy on your electrical and keep the gain turned down. Are you buying just the subs or getting his 2 sub custom box special for 350?