inkfx

Big Jon speaks the truth.

I hope he does come.

the vid wont buffer for me :\

Hey Jon I got 2 prefab boxes on my hands. First is for a single 15, the other is for 2 15s. No idea what the specs are on the single 15 box. Paid like $30 for it at a local shop before I knew anything.

i have a guy here in san marcos for alarms. Any idea what he charges for something like that? Best Buy wants $199 and the dude said I need some $100 module or something for my car. thats true lincolns and most fords need it... 200 if you buy the alarm from them?? im no sure ill ask him again.. i have two guys.. ill ask them both ... Nah it's like $169 if I buy the alarm from them. They want like $399 for the alarm itself though so screw that. I'm just going to order mine off the net for half the price. I'm hoping to spend around $500 all said and done. I probably wont do it for another month but I'd like to get my research done now.

i have a guy here in san marcos for alarms. Any idea what he charges for something like that? Best Buy wants $199 and the dude said I need some $100 module or something for my car.

Anyone around here know a good place to get car alarm/remote start installed?

www.knukonceptz.com has great prices on quality wire.

Im pretty much ready. I'm probably going to build a new box the weekend before the meet. I want to tune a little higher and see what it does to the score/sound of my 15s.

Hmm... let's see... I think my last processor before I got this laptop was my Q6600 G0. It did 4.8Ghz on dry ice with a mousepot rev. 1. (-76C) on an Asus P5K-Deluxe. I didn't get to play with it much under sub-zero temps but I think it could have done 4.9 or 5Ghz. Daily, I ran it at 3.8ghz on my watercooling with an OG Apogee block. I was sporting an ATI x1900XTX with pride. Loved that card because it clocked like a dream. It was also in my water loop with a triple radiator and 3 103CFM Delta WFB1212MEs. I'll see if I can dig up any benchmarks if anyone is interested.

The way it was posted above was hurting my eyes to read. Cleaned it up a little for everyone. SPIDER Everyone familiar with a speaker has seen the flexible corrugated woven material that exists just below the cone. This is the spider, which is a part of the speaker that helps maintain linear movement of the voice coil. This maintains control over the entire cone movement. Spiders are generally made of cotton, poly-cotton blend, or conex. They also come in a variety of sizes. However, the major difference between spiders is the number of corrugations, meaning the valleys and peaks, and the heights of these. This is important because some speakers have longer throw than others. The wrong spec spider has the potential to break down quickly and create "spider sag." That can greatly affect the sound quality of your speaker. There are two different styles of spiders. The first is the cup spider. This is generally found on less expensive woofers. A cup spider has sidewalls that are used to give greater depth so that the neck of the cone does not hit the top plate of the speaker under high power. The second is the flat spider, which is used in more expensive/high excursion woofers where every part is designed to fit appropriately. These are inclined to have a more linear movement along with a greater life expectancy. VOICE COIL The voice coil is possibly the most important piece of a subwoofer. This is the tightly wound spool of wire which makes up the secondary part of the motor structure in a speaker. It is physically attached to the cone and spider of the speaker and is submerged in the magnetic gap in the center of the motor structure. When power, AC voltage, is supplied the coil creates an alternating magnetic field that pushes or pulls the coil in and out of the magnetic gap. This movement translates into acoustical energy. A voice coil is made of two main parts; a former (bobin) and a coil: 1) Formers come in a variety of materials for a variety of applications. Some of the more common are mylar, aluminum, or fiberglass. The former is the physical form that holds the voice coil and attaches to the spider and cone of the speaker. 2) Coils create the alternating field within the motor structure. The wire gauge of the voice coil is crucial for determining the power handling of a subwoofer. Wire used for coils comes in three materials: copper, aluminum, and CCA (copper clad aluminum). Equally important is the preparation and curing of the glue used to bond the coil together as well as to the former. Poor glue usage may result in the coil falling off the former, leaving you stranded without bass. TOP PLATE Directly mounted to the underside of the basket is the top plate. This is generally screwed to the basket or staked on using a high power press. The top plate sits above the magnet and directs magnetic flux to the "gap" where the voice coil resides. This works directly with the t-yoke to create a magnetic field. In turn, this magnetic field reacts with the alternating field produced by the voice coil, consequently moving the voice coil forward and back within the gap. Steel is the only material used for top plates. These are generally of the low carbon variety, for carbon acts as a speed bump for magnetic energy. High carbon content can greatly reduce the amount of force provided by the magnet, and quickly saturates the top plate. Luckily, low carbon steel is cheaper and considerably reduces the cost of producing subwoofers. MAGNET The life force of the speaker. This is generally the part that most everyone judges a speaker by. This is understandable. To most individuals, the larger the magnet, the better the speaker. Unfortunately, that is not always the truth. But what is the magnet to a subwoofer? This is the object between the back plate and t-yoke that provides the counter force to the voice coil. Generally a ferrous material that, like iron, retains a magnetic field constantly. These magnetic fields are referred to as flux lines. Using metal plates, the top plate and the t-yoke, the magnetic fields can be controlled and concentrated to another area, in this case the voice coil gap. T-YOKE Take the back plate of the motor structure and the pole piece that extends up to the center of the voice coil. The combination of these two is referred to as the t-yoke which provides a method of focusing the opposing force of the magnet back up to the location of the top plate. This opposing force creates a magnetic field with the top plate that is used to create a reaction with the alternating field created by the voice coil. As with the top plate, the t-yoke uses a low carbon steel structure. This steel structure in many cases serves another purpose: Ventilation. By boring a hole through the pole piece, air is then moved back and forth to effectively cool the voice coil. As well, the pole piece of the t-yoke also pulls heat from the voice coil, acting as a heatsink. Both can have a tremendous effect on power handling of the woofer. And today's speakers employ various forms of trickery to further improve the ventilation. Check out these speaker cutaways for these fine cooling techniques.

You just need to adjust your gains to that volume. Don't use the bass boost.

mine was 12.5, and oil changes are about 60 bucks a pop That's what you get into when you buy a benz. Cost for maintenance on my moms Benz is pucking absolutely silly.

The amp does 2200w RMS at 1 ohm, so you want the final load from the sub to be 1 ohm as well. Subwoofer Wiring Diagrams Check out that website. Just choose how many subs, and which voice coil config, and it will tell you how to wire and what it goes down to.

Oh btw, some pucking arseho decided to put a hole in my front bumper today while I was at work. I drove home and as I was waking away from the car I see a huge hole above my license plate. Now I gotta replace the whole damn thing.

Do you think it's kosher if we post up there? I mean, to set up shop with a lot of people and grill and all that? Screw them dude, Meade is a tool and so are the other limpdicks over there at those forums. Are they hot, single, and over 18? Yes, yes, and yes. Only problem is they wont come because subs are gay lol. I already asked. I tried to get my roomate to come with my last time but she was so not down. Maybe I can entice her with alcoholic beverages.

I'm thinking we can meet at the corner of Thorpe Ln and Springwood, in San Marcos around 11:00am. Sorry I don't have an exact address. You can mapquest from your address to Thorpe Ln in San Marcos Tx and get good directions. After everyone gets a quick intro and we all shake hands we can move on the open field next to the Hays County Civic Center 1249 Civic Center Loop, San Marcos, TX 78666. There we can play our stereos and grill. Chime in if this doesn't work for any of you planning on coming out. badass i will probably stay for a couple hours then i am going to the USACi show in san antonio anyone bringing there girl with them? Where is the show? I'd bring my roomate and her friends but she thinks subs are dumb.

Use WOOD screws from Home Depot or Lowes. You can buy a pack of them for a few bucks. Since you have no clamps, it will be tough to do it with just glue. I pre-drilled holes for the screws so when i slapped the glue on I could drill them right in smoothly. Only use about 1 screw every 6 inches or so because they have a tendency to split wood. So when you put them too close they just crack the shit out of your MDF. Remember, the wood glue is your main bonding agent here, the screws are really just there to hold it in place during the drying process.

I'm bringing a designated driver.

Don't most cars come stock with 8ga?

If you ordered it recently it's definitely a v2.

Next weekend I will be starting a new box build and was hoping to get some help from yall on an enclosure design. I could probably do what I did last time, just use RE calc and Google Sketch to design. However, I hear too often that the RE calc is not very accurate and tuning can be very off. I want to build this box to last me a while, so I'd like to do it right the first time. - Subwoofers being used are 2 AudioQue SDC2.5 15" - Power will provided from a SAE-1200Dv2 @ 1ohm - I'm not the best wood worker, but i can get a simple box built. I've done one already. I have a Jigsaw to do the cutting. Not the best, but it works. - I will buy MDF from Lowes. - Build will be for my 2008 Grand Marquis. DIMENSIONS: 41 wide x 23 high x 22 deep. - I've seen quite a few builds with the box sprayed with "stone" paint which I really liked. So I will go that route vs carpet. - I listen to mainly rap/hip-hop and every now and then some chill music (like Postal Service, Owl City). - My goal for this new box is; 1. Cleaner install. Current box isn't even painted or covered. 2. Possibly gain a bit of output. I did a 139.6 on the TL last weekend and was hoping to get up to a 140. (not really big deal but it would be nice) - The only other subwoofers I have used are the Kicker L7s. IMO the AQs were a nice change. Especially for the price. - I've talked to a few guys with the same car as me and figured out the best firing direction would most likely be subs back, port back. I also have talked to DJ from AQ in the past but that was months ago and can't find the e-mails anymore. I'll most likely e-mail him as well to get his suggestion. A buddy of mine told me to hit up Fisher Customs but last I heard, he was taking a break from designs/builds to focus on his main job. - Also, my current box is 6.8cu ft @ 34hz (design from recalc) I was thinking this time around try and squeeze a little more space and raise the tuning to about 38hz. Later tonight I will try and design something with the RE calc and Google Sketch and post it up. Hopefully that will give a good round about of what I am looking for. I think I got all the information out that's needed. Really appreciate any help yall could lend me. I'm by no means an expert like some of yall around here.

Sundown hooked me up though. Jacob replaced my v1 with a brand new v2. Great customer service.

Ya it was pretty chill over there. Nobody came and bothered us except Mr. Kickers.

This sounds exactly like what happened to my SAE-1200D. Mine worked somewhat for a few months then started going into protect just like your 3000D is. It was still under warranty, so Jacob helped me out and got me set straight. I think I've seen this happen to a few other amps as well. I'm sure Sundown is aware of it and will get it fixed in their newer models. The 1200Dv2 I got is chuggin along like a champ.