emh9009

Those mids go to about 2500, but can go higher. They just start to break up.

Notice there is about 4" of snow on the ground. It's cold out, but well worth it! i put some L brackets and such around the box to keep it stable today. That's it for now. I think i'm going to get bedliner to cover the box now, carpeting seems much too difficult right now. I can get a video ready tomorrow. I haven't tuned the amp at all. Right now the gain is all the way down, but on the remote knob i have it turned 3-5 clicks, depending on the song. I'm running .5 ohm right now, so all i do is watch my voltage. that's why some songs have to be only 3 clicks. I think the next purchase is the DC power 180 amp alt.... Unless Fcons come out. i want to be first in line for those

If you noticed, i put the subs in upside down. i wanted the logos (looking at it from the rear of the hatch) to be like / \ <- that, if that gets the point across correctly. but they are backwards, oh well, not they're "IF"s Didn't have as much room as i thought, so i've got the amp on the box for now.

False floor time And finally, putting in the box. this is getting exciting! And it's in!

And now to show off some bracing with the ports. And puttin' the subs in! Outside of the box terminals. 8 gauge ring terminals

The 10 gauge had 924 strands, while the 8 had 825. KnuKonceptz Klarity OFC wires. put in the 3 6" flared aeros. at first i was bummed i couldn't find some black screws to make it look better, but once i put these in, i really like them (not that it matters at all). Makes it look industrial, i think.

all built, wired, and put in the car! Tidy wiring. Used 10 gauge all around the inside of the box, and 8 gauge from the box to the amp. I really like this pic. for some reason

gotta' make those smaller

You dont "NEED" 4 cubes. they recommend 2.8-4. And yes, take the sub displacement from the total volume. Don't forget to take port volume as well. I'm sure that the old/new models are close enough you dont need to worry about any changes from the .19 ft^3 displacement. It won't change much anyways if it is off a smidge. If you have any doubts on that calculator, i highly recommend looking at the link i gave you, again.

Or you could get a design and have a local builder put it together for you, could save you some $$$

Home depot cuts i believe, just how precisely is the question. or you can use a straight edge as a guide, if you don't have a table saw. Check Eclectic Enclosure Designs for a box design when you get all of your measurements done and want a design. Great guy and great skillzz!

Thought about making a false floor so you have a flat bottom to work with? Would remove all on the bumps and curves of the natural floor. Not too hard. And there is only one way to be able to build a box, just get out there and try. If you dont like it you can always build a new one. They're cheap(er) and fun to do!

Heads up to those who have e-mailed and haven't received a reply, check your junk box. He replied to my e-mail from his phone, so hotmail automatically sent it to my junk. He sent a prompt reply, contrary to my beliefs that he was really slow, checked junk and all is well!

Give some dimensions, i think you could do it.

So do you get invited? Or do you ask? Can you join just by slaping a SSA sticker on ur windshield, and then show a member as proof? Do you have to be competetive and run all SSA products? Submit videos, pictures? etc etc etc... lol I've always wonderd what it took to become part of a team, because I see them all over the site. Team DC, Team SSA, Team IAK, etc etc etc. I got invited. I assume you could ask. You don't join by adding a sticker to your window. You should run SSA products, even though I do not. You should compete. You don't have to post videos and such. you need some ZCON 15s

not every team has the same guidelines of what is required, have to check each out individually.

are they in production yet? if so i'm going to hate myself, i already got my 6" ones.. damn it, haha

Is that your video? i like the intro, props. Nice score!

17" of port area total? or per cubic foot? The only reason some boxes have "L" ports is because they are longer than others. they have to put the port somewhere, so they go with the walls of the box. there is no difference than a straight port like you're thinking of. And when you're changing lengths on a box, you cant just take an inch from the height an put it in the length. it adds and subtracts different amounts of area. think about it, that's why your tune can be off of what they have.

measure the space you have available, and i'm sure someone will chime in if you're able to fit the 15 in. depends on how much room you want to give up.

just put the hertz in and see how you like it, if it's not what you want then you can try something new. Could save a bit of money, get something else nice. like a battery or something. Heck i need just that, you could buy me a nice late present?

Its hardly smaller. Maybe 1.5" shorter 1.5" can be a lot I was just carrying around my older model 1500 and it seemed pretty large, maybe the pic. and large trunk makes the amp look even smaller specs of box?

Awolnation - Sail On repeat lol give it a whirl

I didn't even catch it was a 1500, i saw the size and automatically thought of a 1000! haha Very nice. Sick car BTW

Are those monoprice RCAs? how did you mount your amp's board?