alexj01_83

TY working on it bit by bit. Now i need a trans that will hold up... leaning heavily on putting a 5, or 6 speed behind it...

Im going to put it on the chassis dyno when i get done

good thing you guys are alright. it could be worse...

Also put tranny back together

Got my bottom end back, had to wait for my bearings (got them coated)

The fun part will be driving it without it falling apart. Hopefully I can get the tranny right to hold up to the big block. right now its only behind the weak 307...

Got my block back from the machine shop, had it bored out .030 and new cam bearings installed. bottom end is still at the machine shop. forged pistons, factory rods with arp bolts. and getting a rebalanced. I filled the exhaust crossover ports with aluminum from some old pistons I melted, cc them. 2004r transmission it has the stock cluch and friction count, wide band, sonnex servo. I rebuilt front pump with 10 vane rotor, Teflon Coated Pump Bushing, elevated pressure regulator spring, and high output pump slide spring. I replaced stator support and sun shell with hardened units, and stock valve body with the tci constant pressure valve body. Blocked off the accumulators. Installed an auxiliary filter from a Allison transmission to keep it all clean. Had to take it back apart. Forward clutch piston broke. need to find another. Burnt up the clutch pack in the process. What its supposed to look like on the Right...

Well this is just about the cheapest way I can think to do it, and keep your AC. First I removed the smog pump, and replaced it with the factory alternator. Then ran all the factory wiring to it. (it is just running the car) Then I put my juiced up alternator in the factory location while incorporating the big three. (This alternator just charges the batteries in the rear it doesn't have to run the car) Just one way of doing it, also make sure you can still get it inspected without the smog pump.

I just took out the smog pump, and put the extra alt there.

I need help bad bought an alternator for my 93 Honda accord supposed to do 130 amps. At idle hot Engine at 2000 rpm hot I'm running an mtx 1501d, and I cant upgrade to my sundown 3000d until i fix this problem. I have called and left a #, also a pm. I need at least a good 150-200 amp alt.

As long as your careful, not really.

The instruction manual, and some electrical aptitude....

That car serves no purpose now. I bet the drive shaft angle is all to hell if some one did this to my old school i would shoot em.

What is the resting voltage for this battery?? Will it charge properly with a stock voltage alternator ?? what sizes do you guys make the 14 volt batt in.

What is the lowest you can charge it at? Because on a twelve volt. System as long as its in the 13.1-14.5 range every thing is fine. What is the threshold with the 14.0v battery? And what is the voltage on a fully charged/discharged 14.0v battery. Thank you

http://il.youtube.com/watch?v=9TNpK3e-m5Q

I thought they made these for regular 12v systems..... a comprmise between 12 & 16v batteries.

I just used some welding cable in my honda... Audio shop wanted $5 a ft for 1/0 got this 2/0 for $2.88 a ft. Might not look as fancy but works as good.

POWER : 1970 Watts AMP VOLTAGE (measured) : 49.25 V AMP CURRENT (calculated) : 40 A ACTUAL IMPEDANCE (calculated) : 1.23 ohms SUPPLY VOLTAGE : 12.85 V bump the voltage up a little an this beast could 800 over the rated 1500 I'm sure.... improbable but not impossible...

I had a set of jl 12w3's sitting around. I wasn't using them because the surrounds where dry rotted didn't want to throw them away So..... I found a kit for them on ebay. Kit came in today... These babies are going in my Honda..

A little of both. I made more so i could do both at the same time.