wenn_du_weinst

that coil right there is from the tightest gap you can get just so you know I wouldn't play music on any spl set up unless you don't really mean spl

that is basically to save there ass if you clip it the coil will start to rock and rub the sides of the gap and rub through the windings like this

the gap on the spl btl is not even close to as small as my sigs are and I use them daily just make sure you pay attention as they might start to rub if not careful the bigger problem is if you are going for spl your box will not play music it will be way to small have to much port and will probably be tuned to high

wrong there is a difference each turn in the port causes turbulence slot(square ports that use one side of the box as a port wall) usually are very good with noise because of the opening of the port being easy to load and not have air being blown across the opening square ports that don't bend have less turbulence but may have more pressure blow by round ports are the worse until they are flared thats why they are the noisiest now if you use any of these and flare them it helps alot by creating a void and helps pull the air out of the enclosure more air movement = more db's (most of the time ) now are any of these differences enough to hear by ear? most of the time no but on the meter there is a difference I just thought you should know this in case you want to compete and don't use re's calculator it is often way off

what amps was he using

who said anything about being louder to the ear though? I was in Amateur Street 2 last time, and im switching classes with the new amp and battery, and wanted to see what you guys thought,because i dont want to get murdered in my new class I did I thought you allready had the amp in I was explaining that it may sound way louder but not meter as high just like my setup didn't sound as loud but metered higher

maybe a 140 flat probably a 138-139 it may be louder to the ear but the thats not what determines how high it will meter

ok I forgot about this thread. you more than likely will like them more DJ was running 2 3000 a sub if I remember right and they did fine

sneaky bastards... hahahaha hey but they are good subs man i agree and there fairly priced..you know all these mainstream buyers dont know about all this good car audio.... meh they are decent nothing special the ones alex is designing should be better

the night shade should deff take 3k daily it's a better sub than the omega

some people know that I want to switch my blazer over to sq after I get a car for bass race/db drag so here is what I have so far let me know what you think mids amp (2ohms) http://www.woofersetc.com/p6743/PCX2125--P...t-Amplifier.htm tweeter amp (2ohms) http://www.woofersetc.com/p6743/PCX2125--P...t-Amplifier.htm sub amp (at 1.5ohms) http://ampguts.realmofexcursion.com/DD_Z1/ head unit ( I have just wanted to try it) http://www.woofersetc.com/p6576/CD7200-mkI...CD-receiver.htm mids for dash http://www.woofersetc.com/p1564/ES400--CDT...;-Midranges.htm mids for door http://www.woofersetc.com/p1566/ES600--CDT...;-Midranges.htm tweeters (a pillar mounted) http://www.woofersetc.com/p7450/DRT26T--CD...um-Tweeters.htm subs http://www.soundsplinter.com/rls12_subwoof...nformation.html design for the subs and amp rack 1.5" birch 5ft tuned to 34hz carpet and velvet covered so what do you think along way away but I have wanted to do it forever any tips this will be the first real active setup I do as well

First off I want to say I'm not trying to start anything just a thought that came to my mind. As a team are you guys more the daily/ground pounder type? I know ssa subs are geared towards sq/groundpounders so I was just wondering if you guys do the sq thing or if you do go for numbers?

now thats better we need more info than takes up my whole back seat.

I will almost guarantee subs forward port drivers side will get loudest

you are starving the amp what size power and ground do you have?

they may have the same pitch but the wood screws stick out more into the wood I've blown plenty of boxes apart so I have gotten to test out a bunch of screws

soundsplinter rls 15's?

only thing is I would use wood screws not dry wall screws they hold better but that may just be for birch I won't use mdf

yeah i already heard but who know...? why would he waste his time building that? i dont ge it I've seen the new one

what about double baffle?

he is rebuilding it was a joke I guess

what specs

the box was dead on 5cft and on the t30001bd theres just a switch on or off on the infrasonic filter and it was switched on and i think thats set on about 27hz i think, thats what it says in the maneul Thanks That's Why, Plus Over Extension. that sub should be able to take that if not then they need to do something about it 5ft is small for a 18" and this is the 3 btl with a ripped spider I have seen this week maybe they got a batch of bad spiders

1 18 only did a 137? you must have a very sealed trunk or something I would work on opening that up as much as possible try subs forward port drivers side with the box pushed to the tail lights round over everything even the back of the baffle where the subs are then take some duct tape and tape around the gaskets of the sub to smooth the square cut out on the gasket then play with your seat and visor positions until you find a sweet spot

I would almost promise you that anybody with a sundown 3000 has a ho alt