simons81

I'm going to try to go back to the store that installed them since they did a far worse job than I had anticipated I myself would do. I ran 16/4 conductor wire the the doors so that the crossover could be kept in the car. Additionally, they pretty much screwed the speaker into the actual metal of the door, lost a bunch of screws and plastic clips, and managed to somehow keep the covers of both of my crossovers. Talk about a lame install. Hopefully they will refund my money, though I highly doubt it. I'll just reinstall the chit myself. When I called them over the phone though, they told me they had spacers and their techs go to school to perform seemless installed and will make sure it's covered from water. Instead, a hack job with no concern for water. Bleh, what a waste of dough, lol. I made a temporary duct tape shield that will allow the water to drip down away from the speaker until I find a better solution.

Gosh, filled with help here. I was going to post pictures last night but I took measurements and the speaker would not POSSIBLY fit. The metal on the door literally had to be cut to get the speakers in, so no amount of advice would have helped anyways. Believe me, I did not want to pay an arm and a leg to get a hack job done. So, now, hopefully that doesn't make me look like as much of a dumbass, as I haven't the tools to even cut the metal frame of my door anyways. What I'd really like to know is if the speaker claims to be marine-rated, how concerned do I need to be about water? Can anyone answer that? Not looking for 1337 forum users to tell me that I fudgeed up, just looking to protect my investment. Please and thanks.

Thanks, that helps a lot at this point. Anyone have any comments about whether I should leave it configured as it currently is?

Ok, so I'm feeling particularly stupid right now. I borrowed a dremel from my work and started sawing and shaving the driver side door panel and still couldn't get this thing in. I had a feeling I was going to break something and weighed out the cost of having to buy new door panels vs. just getting them installed. I called the local chain car stereo store and they told me it'd be $60 over the phone. I just wanted my damn door panels back on... between rattling and non-functionality, I was prepared to just pay to have it put in. They said they have spacers and all kinds of tricks so I said what the hell. I drove in with my door panels and my speakers. They told me instead it'd be $135 and that normally component installs are $180 but since I already installed the tweeters, they'd cut me a break. My break turned out to be more than they said over the phone, but whatever. I paid it. They said it'd be quick. I waltzed around the store for a little over 3 hours. I couldn't leave because it began dumping rain. Anyways, so I'm sitting here at lunch and I notice that the factory grill wasn't completely pushed in. I got a little curious and decided to take apart one door just to see how much rain has entered, and if the crossover and woofer were at risk. Besides, I figured the dremeling is all done, I could easily put it back together. Here's a pic or two: As you can see, they left the cover off the crossover, I believe to make this thing fit. I'm not sure if this is a stupid idea, as the cover may help keep water out? I'm unsure. As for the speaker woofer itself, definitely exposed to rain. I pulled the cone out and it was a little damp. That said, the woofer is marine rated aparently, though I have no clue if that means I should still do my best to protect it from the elements. At this point I'm feeling like a major jakcalope, having spent a good chunk of change for something that I originally thought I could do on my own, instead to get it installed by someone else in a way that just doesn't seem very... long-term. Can anyone give some advice? Should I worry about the woofer if it's marine-rated? The speakers are Focal 165A1 if that helps. Should I try to get that crossover cover on and protect it with duct tape or something? Sorry the pics are so crappy, cell phone pics.. Keep in mind, when the woofer is installed, it either directly contacts the metal rail for the window, or comes a molecule away...

Hey, I'm looking for a bit of advice. I bought some 6.5" Focal component speakers for my 99 Civic LX which has 6.5" stock speakers. The problem is that the Focals appear to be a hair larger than they specified... The diameter of the speaker is a good 1-2mm wider than claimed, which means I'm forced to do some modification. I would probably just huck them on eBay, except a) I really like their sound, and b) I already drilled / installed the tweeters on my door panel. So I'm left with a tricky situation. I'm debating whether or not I should be cutting the metal ring around the speaker, or the plastic on my door. They both have pros and cons and while I'm slightly handy, I'm not very experienced with cutting plastic or metal. If I dremel the plastic opening on the door, while I only need an extra hair of clearance, it looks like I might damage the structure of the plastic housing. I only need an extra millimeter or two, but that's about all it'll take to make the speaker housing sorta weakened. On the flipside, I wouldn't have the slightest clue on filing down the metal ring of the speaker... not very experienced with shaving metal, especially on something fragile like a speaker. Anyone have any advice on which avenue I should proceed, and which tools I'd want to use? Would you do slight modifications to both? After spending my entire weekend on this, as well as lots of hard earned moola, I'm just a little freaked out, lol. Thanks

Cool, thanks guys. And just to make sure, I run the remote turn on wire on the same side as m power wire right?

Hi there. I'm trying to figure out the safest, most cost-effective way to wire two amps, particularly, the remote-turn-on wires. I have seen a lot of stuff saying just wire both wires to the H-U remote turn on, while others say it can burn out the H-U. I'll be using 2 300w RMS amps if it makes any difference...

If it makes no difference, maybe I'll just wire each sub to its own terminal. If I do this, can I blow the sub with the amplifier I mentioned? I'll be running the bass control up to the dash, but I wanna know what it's limits are so I don't blow the thing. Also, should I just be using 16 gauge wire from the sub to the amp? I've got a 4 gauge power kit that'll run to the battery, but I'm just curious what gauge I should use from the actual amp to the subwoofers...

Hi there, curious about connecting a mono amp / 2x10" subwoofer setup. My subwoofer setup is pretty cheap, I know, but I just wanna make sure I do it right. The subs are Pioneer TS-W251R 10" 4 Ohm: Output Power (4 Ohm, <=1% THD) 60 Watts x 2 Output Power (4 Ohm Bridged, <=1% THD) 150 Watts x 1 Output Power (2 Ohm, <=1% THD) 75 Watts x 2 The amp is Infinity Reference 1300a: 200 watts RMS x 1 at 4 ohms (300 watts RMS at 2 ohms) So obviously, I have two pairs of subwoofer terminals in the back of my enclosure, and I have two pairs of terminals on the amp itself. Should I just plug subwoofer 1 into speaker terminal 1 on the amp, and subwoofer 2 into terminal 2 on the amp, or would you guys do something fancy to get the most out of the sub? Another question, what gauge wire should I be using inside of the subwoofer box from the sub to the actual terminal on the box? Is 16 gauge fine for the amount of power I'm running?

Thanks M5. I have a feeling it'd be a decent match for my low/mid-end system. No point in dipping outside of my pricepoint I guess.

Can anyone tell me if this particular model would just be complete garbage to run my 2x10" sub with? http://www.crutchfield.com/p_108R1300A/Inf...00a.html?tp=115

Cool, very helpful, I appreciate it greatly! You think I'd need 1200w out of the Kenwood amp or is that just for an upgrade path? That seems like it'd majorly rock my alternator, lol. Another question, you have any advice on a wiring kit? Are most people doing 8 gauge?

eh, low budget, i'm already looking to buy component fronts and some 6x9s so i don't wanna spend more than i gotta. i would say the system i'm building is low/mid grade.... any recommendations?

if i do a new amp, what kinda amp? 1 channel or 2 channel? do most run 2 subs in stereo?

The subs are Pioneer TS-W251R 10" 4 Ohm... it says no dual voice coil, I'm not sure if that's what you're asking.... these are the specs: Size 10 -inch Impedance 4 ohms Cone Material IMPP Surround Material Urethane Sealed Box Volume (cubic feet) 0.7 - 1.3 Ported Box Volume (cubic feet) 0.9 - 1.55 Port diameter (inches) 3 Port length (inches) 6 Free-Air No Dual Voice Coil No Sensitivity 90 dB at 1 volt Frequency Response 20 - 4500 Hz RMS Power Range (Watts) 50-120 Peak Power Handling (Watts) 600