Spencerk

If you really want to know get your grubby lil dick beaters on a amp clamp and dmm find out for yourself.....

Oh yeah any good amp does more than rated power.......and if its rated at 1200, 1400 is more than likely closer to the truth. A friend of mine just bought a rockford 2500bd Rated at 2500watts. and the thing came out of the box with a birth sheet of 3098 watts!!!!! thats 598 watts more than rated power!!!!!!!

Oh yeah any good amp does more than rated power.......and if its rated at 1200, 1400 is more than likely closer to the truth. A friend of mine just bought a rockford 2500bd Rated at 2500watts. and the thing came out of the box with a birth sheet of 3098 watts!!!!! thats 598 watts more than rated power!!!!!!!

.................................(crickets).........................wtf???? well I guess their is no real way to know

looks sweet... I like how everything is hidden and clean, make sure you get air around those amps tho don't close them off. what program are all you guys using to make all these sweet enclosures???

Unless you have someone one off a board for you you will probably just have to get a new one from Hifonics and by the time you do either you will have spent more cash then the new one.....sry man. But hey Christmas is on the way......with the next amp get a fuse holder and fuse they will run you like 30 bucks to your door for a cheapie

If the voltage dropped off badly there was probably a dead short....did you loosed any fuses in the proses??? with such peaks in current inrush you should have blown a fuse or two.

Well if you let the magic smoke out of the amp I am 99% sure is screewed.....probably the power supply or MOFSET, and if the magic smoke smelled really bad it was probably a wet capacitor (those things stink)....In any event I think its safe to assume your going to need another amp.

I was thinking like some amps and subs in a submarine or a golf cart or something......hahaha

I drive an 04 ford Taurus the max width is 38 inches between wheel wells 18 inches tall and 44 deep ....... im looking at 2 12s with stats of 612$ to buy/ 960cm3 of cone area 2000 - 2800 wrms of power and box size of 3.0 too 5.0 cubes OR 3 10's with stats of 930cm3/ 609 to buy/ 2400 - 3000 wrms, and 2.7 to 4.5 cubes for the box sooo im kinda stuck between those.....but again I am totally open to your guys suggestions on what to do here should I seal off the trunk and fire into the cabin what the pros and cons of doing this, I want this to all work right the first time.

Ok well with my b-day coming and tax season around to corner I will be coming into a few extra grand to play with. SO I was playing with sealing off the trunk of the car and firing the sub into the cabin, thinking of going with 3-10's or a single 18. right, now I have a single BL 15 on 2.5k. my goal for the project is to be louder and make my trunk more usable then it is now. Before I go and spend this kind of money I want to make sure I do everything the right way the first time so I call upon you guys for some suggestions on what to go with for the project

sry I was half sleepin on that last one.....no my question is have any of you guys had any real success with triple 10 set ups?? and if so how did that compare to something like a single 18 or 2 12's. As of right now I am leaning t words 3 SSD 10's, but I am totally open to any other brand you guys have had good success with. my main goal for this project is a daily 2.5k ground pounder that will allow me to have a trunk but still pull off a hair trick. I have only had this BL 15 so if their is anything else out their that will do the job at a reasonable price I want to know bout it

my vote FI Q's..... falls into your price and goals/interests

would love to have a wall ,but I cant give up the back seats......the space is still needed. Seems to only work for ppl with SUVs and trucks

Crock of shit.....plain and simple....to take that amp to full power, yes you would need a modified electrical system HO alt 2+ batts etc. but just for the amp to turn on and the caps inside to charge you could do that off of a car batt just sitting on a bench, with stock electrical that thing could still pull at least 20 amps and be totally fine that's like 190 watts give or take (off top of head) more than enough to hear at normal lessening levels. Sounds to me like the input signal is weak thus little amplification, use a DMM set to AC volts and measure the voltage at the rca's if its higher than 2VAC +/- .3 vac the its probably the amp. And as always check ground, supply voltage, remote wire, plug and unplug the remote gain, etc.

well as of late its only been tying to break into the illusive 12' s in the 1/4 in the 93 SHO mtx, gotta love making vetts and WS6's look like tarts from 60 mph to 150. and my girl, work,......taking care of the yard

Don't know much about your install but some songs can be clipped....some times the material itself can be clipped... if you have a cd or a song on your computer that has been compressed or copied many times that can cause problems. I have a few songs I got for free ( if ya know what I mean) and I got the same exact same CD as a gift and they are two totally different songs from 30 htz and under

well every car is different but in my experience I have always found it louder and more clean with both subs firing into the same space

10% of nominal is the standard....if you give to much inrush onto that bat you will burn those cells up

about 2 months ago I (with the help of M5) set up my first 2 way active system. Since I have lost the rear speakers and I have my sub crossed in at 50 htz with a 18db slope I now have a serious lack of sound from about 60 to 140 htz. The Bostons I had just would make this honorable noise at about 150 htz, just muddy and nasty. So i just got myself a pair of the new Rockford power components and STILL THE SAME PROBLEM what do I do??? I have already put dynamatt in the doors and on the back of the door skins. Do i have to take this thing 3 way in order to get some mid bass?

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