Spencerk

I was just reading this articleHERE thats what they label the two as, was just wondering why we all don't use this set up, because you can tune the thing on the fly with no rebuilding of boxes

I DO NOT like this skin, the most annoying thing is how when you click on a topic if jumps to the last post, I want to read the whole thing so I know what is going on. I will take that crazy shopping cart corner over this any day.

was that done with arch or mig.... I cant tell if it was spotted with 7018 or forgot to turn the argon on with the mig??? Be careful if any more cracks start they will start right along the sides of the welds that were put down Tungsten or heli arch would have stopped that...sick set up though man

I have wanted to get a meter for a while now so I can play with diff box pos. etc... term labs are sooo pricey, do you guys know of any good meters for less. I think shizzon said he is using a Hyperdynamics or something like that....any input is welcome

Makeitlouder.com they have a meter for like 70 bucks and I have a nice fluke oscope for it........ hmmmm I see a brown truck dropping something off to me in the next 5-7 days Leister-- I am from Muskegon and live in lansing. I have called tech audio/ skory auto sound/ extreme car audio, and you are right, I dont think their is one TL in michigan... Now if we could only get a Comp to come out are way sometime hu??

welcome ED.... what kind of set-up do you have???

No such thing as to little power... 300 watts on a BL you could proly clip the shit outa that thing and not hurt it. you will be fine just dont push that lil guy too hard and make it sound nasty

OMG the BMW and the shack is my neighbor!!!! BRAND new $60,000 caddy with 26s and the bank just took his house last week...

Hey np man glad to help

They also sell like a lil eye-dropper type thing that you can take a sample of ur water in ur bat and these two lil balls will float to tell you what ur ratio is I think that thing is called a Hydrometer (again Freshman year) and on average you would like to see the specific gravity if the solution around 1.215 to 1.28 but most hydrometers will have a green area or line and just get it to that line, too high and you will need to take acid out and add water too low means more water. as far as how full to fill it I have always heard that you only need enuf to cover the top of the plates you don't have to fill it right to the top of the fill holes

OK well if you can fill it. then check the level if they are full then nothing. but if the bat is older than it will proly take some water the just fill it up. Also at wall-mart, autozone, etc I have seen acid you can buy to add to ur bat I do not know what the ratio is for the water to acid but I know that all water and no acid will lower you float charge, bc all a bat is is a chemical reaction and you need equal amounts of water lead and acid to make it work to its fullest.....Think of it like checking your oil, just dont get this oil in ur eyes you will go blind and it will hurt

Yep distilled... if you have a batt that is NOT sealed you can add water/acid to it. you will know if you look at your batt it will have 1 or 2 caps you can pop off and add water. OR if you have a sealed batt then just be nice bc once that baby shorts or the water or acid gets too low..you better get out the check book

Almost forgot...if you have a gel cell ( like an Optima) or an Dry cell like a Batt cap not all of the above applys... Gel cells can take inrush and draw very well bc the sulfuric acid electrolyte is suspended in an immobilized paste ( like peanut butter) and the plates are a calcium -lead hybrid that is flexible

Man I new that these last 4 years and $75,000 would be good for something..... And this is it right here. The float charge of a Batt is the Voltage that the batt will maintain with a state of Natural current ( no current out or in just chillin ). Standard lead acid car batt is nothing more than six 2.2 volt cells in one casing. It is conducive to the batts health if you do not pull HUGE amounts of current off the batt and the go and give it a inrush or current greater that the max CCA. This will lead to you warping the plates and the batt will shorting out. Because car batts are secondary chemical electron transfer cells they also have a life cycle of on average 6500 cycles, then once we put amps and other goodies on them that number is almost cut in half. Also use DI water in your batt minerals from regular tap water will cause build up on the plates and electrons will not be able to flow efficiently. Thus giving the batt a higher internal resistance and a lower float charge......I think.....this was like freshman year and I was hungover A LOT

Strap them, not all amps are exactly identical, one may make more power than the other, their could be a time delay between the two amps even if its only 1 ms that could cause distortion.

KU40 is hit it dead on, once the windings, casing, etc gets hot the internal resistance goes up thus a voltage drop occurs

OMG i am tarted, sry guys OK here total is like $460 with shipping, not top of the line but off brand.. amp- http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_6882_M...dio+TC4001.html HU- http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_17269_...KDC-MP342U.html Wire kit- http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_7228_e...by+Scosche.html Sub- http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_9105_R...nch+P3D412.html

UMMMmmm.....yeah..that way he could just use that to view all the other links to the products, specs, ect... and the final price.............Im lost why is this an issue????

I know this stuff isn't sundown, FI or SSA like most ppl on here..... I used to have that amp and it birthed @589wrms @2ohms it real power and thats hard to find at this price, that sub would be perfect for it.... FREE shipping on the amp and sub too and even a lil left for a box and maybe some speakers?? http://www.sonicelectronix.com/cart.php?ac...&item=14602

I have a pioneer 800 PRS and I let the HU do everything I only set subsonic for the sub otherwise the deck dose it all. I try to keep it simple and process the sound once at the deck and thats it, not go and change it again at the amp

Ok I am trying to set my car up as SQ so I am lookin into another Nine.1 and another 2 ch so I can go 3-way active....only one lil problem my car has 100% stock Electrical. I found a few places to get an alt for about $350 for a 200 amp unit, here is the kicker tho.... I was looking at the do it yourself manuals at autozone (Haynes I think) and its telling me I have to pull both axles and pull the K member, then drop the motor 6 inches or so to get it out!!! F*$& that I am a welder and I have access to a water jet. So will adding another alt not of the same make or model cause me any problems. I was just going to get a one wire unit and a longer belt, make some mounting brackets. Anybody else ever seen or do something like this

I have a Pioneer Premier DEH-P800PRS High Fidelity head unit. I was thinking about getting a processor. Since I have never owned any type of sound processor. my question is. Am I going to put this thing in line with my amps and make 19000db on the mic or will that 300$ investment barely be noticed?? My deck already has t/a, 16 band eq, 3 way active set up, I can adjust each individual speaker for gain and eq, so what will a processor do for me. is it really worth the money?

In order to give you a better answer. What do you want your daily driver to be after you are all said and done?? With out any of this info I can tell you that if you are after a loud car your going to want as much cone area you can get ur lil hands on and all the other goodies to back up 2 3000ds

OK I took your advice (M5) and read this site front to backhttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Audio_crossover I am going to change the set up in the car too 2-way active set up for now to feel things out..... I have never been one to do things half ass so I really want to go 3-way active eventually, but I how is that?? if I have 6 speakers all on their own CH the what RCA outputs do I use from the deck bc the only 4 will already be used... where do I get the other inputs for the other two CH

Well I am prepared to go pretty far seeing as I already have some equipment all Im going to need is about 6 new speakers and I have already hacked hols in my doors, I did this my self bc I thought it would help to separate the front and rear waves from each other and it did somewhat but still dint make my car sound like The owners car though. Hope this link works for ya........ http://radioactivecc.ning.com/photo/dscf44...?context=latest