Spencerk

Bump.... for suggestion

Thx I tried many versions before I came up with those. Well as for size I think an 8 is probably the biggest I would go for mid bass, and the tweets I could go with a 3 or 4 if I put them up on the A pillars, if they stay in the sails 2 inch is the biggest I could go bc of clearance issues with the dash when the door closes. I would like to stay with a 6.5 for mid bass though so I can use what I already have built, but don't let that effect your suggestions I want what will work, not what will be easy to do.

OMG I totaly forgot about these photos these are with my Very first set of Bostons but you still get the idea. now I have the tweets glassed onto the sails not just mounted using the kit it comes with. pic 1 pic 2

No No No I have to go to mexico for work and the company gave a a little incentive if you will, to stay on and off for about 3 months and get things off the ground here. As for the pics I have them but I cannot load them bc the guy from huges net never showed up today to install my new high speed internet. I still have dial up bc we live out in the middle of nowhere, and when I try to load them here it takes about 10 mins and then it will just come back and tell me that the network has timed out.....

Right now I have the tweets in the sails and the mids are in the pods that are on the lowest, farthest forward portion of the door panel (Stock location) just imaged twords you. I have heard a 3 way set up at a local audio shop, but i don't know the brand, model, etc... I do know that it was a set of tweets, 3 inch, and a set of 8 for the mid bass the tweets and the 3s where in the A-pillar and the 8s where in the kicks. I listen to rock and country, I like my mid bass short, tight, and punchy. As for the size of the new ones I am going to be too picky i am willing to spend a few days re-doing doors and sails if that's what it takes.

Huh? Sub to 63Hz Mids 100 to 3.15kHz Tweets 2.25kHz+ If so you need to switch that up a bunch. You should underlap your tweet and mid it will make things sound better quick. As for recommendations what sort of space and budget do you have? OK so should I move the tweet up or the mid down to obtain the underlap??? as for the budget I just got myself a nice chunk of change to go to Mexico so I can swing 1000$ right now for the four speakers I would like to see a new 4ch in that buget too (i dont like mine) What did you guys have in mind in my range???

i only have 1400watts max to work with but im going to use the bp power up grade By volume he means physical space for the enclosure. o well im thinkin like 20-30 inches or do you mean cubic feet Yeah your guna what the BL...and thats the end of that.... as for "volume" ur guna want a box at about 4 cubes tune it too 33 htz (a good starting place) I have my new box at 27 and the BL loves it

Yeah I did change the phase of the mids and the width was night and day with the left reversed and the right normal it sound like the speakers are an extra foot outside of the doors. as for the tweets I dint notice any change either way

My flight gets back in on Saturday, I will cut the backs of those out to free air them. More then likely I am going to put those in my GFs car bc she has a blown left front (still still stock). SO, lets just cut to the chase and get some suggestions from you guys on what new speakers I should buy ( what you guys have tried with success) I have my sub crossed at 63 htz with a 24 db slope the, mids run from 100 htz @18db all the way to 3.15 htz @ 18db and last the tweets are from 2.25 and up at 12db slope.

I got shipped off to Mexico for 8 months for work.....its only been 6 days but I think I am having audio withdraws. people here dont even listen to the radio in the car !!!!!!

OK these are the speakers I bought HERE . I chose them bc you can bI-amp them with the crossover. I still have 4 chs powering the fronts only, each tweet and mid still on its own ch. I tried a little polly fill behind the door pods but not much help. I wish i could show you a pic of them but I don't have my camera (im in Mexico for work) they image the pass mid at the drivers ear and the driver mid at the passengers, they are sealed I don't know the space, but if I had to guess maybe .2 cubes each. If you guys cant help me i think im going to stick a shit ton of power to them and see what happens. and then get new speakers shortly after

if i were you i would just go with one of those MTX thunder forum or whatever their called they make them for 2 10s unless you want to get into some fab work. Plus the look like something that came with the truck...they look clean and stealthy. as far as space I wouldn't go less than 1.6 MINIMUM

2- 10s more air = more boom

NO NO!!! don't do that, that is how you would check the difference in potential energy of the Batt. if you do that you WILL pop the fuse on the meter. What you will want to do is pull the ground and take the reading from the end of the wire to the chassis.

yep yep well I live in Lansing MI so just the gas was 100 bucks dinner was at the Ritz Carlton an the set me back 357 and some change.... and it was her 21st b-day so we both were drinkin alot...the party limo set me back another 300 bucks we dint go into a club that dint have a $15 cover or more

Girlfriends b-day last night, spent the night on rush street in downtown Chicago. Blew 1200 bucks and I feel like I want to die right now

I am in Chicago for the GFs birthday and I was hoping to that maybe their would be some audio shops around here with a term lab. I havent had the new box on the mic yet and I don't really want to go shopping all day anybody round here or been here that might know??

1 18 will be a tight fit and two 15s?? ur guna need 8 cubes I don't think you will fit it in their and still have room to move the air around the box effectively

have you modded this amp or bypassed the protection circuits??? Bc that is the next best thing to a dead short and it should be going into protect mode, that is probably like .2 ohms or less lead to lead

I suppose you don't have to if ya don't want, but bc the alt is the main source of power in your car and the ground comes from its casing its deff not going to hurt. To give your alt the path of least resistance that would be the way to do it. Even if ya don't put a wire on it proly would not be a bad idea to pop out the bolts and just make sure the you have a good clean connection with the block.

well... yeah because when you have two types of metals you can get galvanic corrosion between the two and that will cause problems. if you do put a wire right to it put some die electric grease on their to stop the oxidation ( the root cause of the galvanic corrosion the casing of the alt is its ground

145 mph Raced some gay ass 13 sec Grand prix in my 93 Ford Taurus SHO 3.0 MTX on the highway

I would put a wire right from the alt to the chassis some alts have aluminum casings with steel hardened bolts holding them on. this combo can lead to poor grounding. Just pull one mounting bolt and clean the area and place your ground their. just my .02

I don't think anybody here likes E.D. and im not sure why....I have never owned any thing other than their amps but they are great and they do way more than rated power. the owner of the local audio shop has their liquid deadener in a explorer with 4 R.F T2s on 5k and the only things that makes noise is the wipers, seems to be good stuff.

What design is better a 4th order ported box or a 4th order passive radiator box with a one to one ratio (passive to active). The radiator seems to have so many more advantages... so why does everyone have ported boxes?? looking for some ideas and opinions on this, might redo my box soon.