60ndown

just an update iwas going to make the box smaller still but when i opened her up and did the math i figure its already only about 1.1 or 1.2 before displacement? so i stuffed it full of polyfill and left it alone. it sounds amazing. the type of bass is different to the bigger box, there were times i could make it 'wang' with my puny 600watts, but in this smaller enclosure its so dry and detailed. no shortage of low end at all, but when the lows are on the recording the rl-p plays them with such amazing authority with no added tonality, just the bass on the recording and nothing else.if your in to sq, and you havent tried a smaller box on your rl-p i reccomend it highly! very very sweet controlled deep accurate bass

i changed my sealed box from 1.6 approx after disp to 1.1 approx after disp, i prefer the sound? weird , i have lived under the impression that real low end was hard to achieve, but after shrinking the box i think i can say that there was too much, im thinking big box + low end monster sub + trunk + cabin gain = too much imfo below 40hz? ill play w it some more but definately enjoying the new lighter sound! ?

same sq as the rl-p only higher power handling? or am i wrong?

i figured the problem i was experienceing was that in my trunk i was getting 'trunk gain'? and then 'cabin gain' inside the car? audio is weird-i get something new and it sounds better ,then after a while listening i identify something id like to improve on.well i love my rl-p, but i was experienceing some odd vibrations? peaks? resoncnce? at certain freqs? i called 'audiocontrol' today (looking for an eq for the sub) and was talking to sean , he said that their in dash eq unit has a ss filter "fixed" at about 33hz? he said they did extensive testing and decided trying to get lower than 33hz in most cars without lots of work was pointless? (i have set my ss filter @ 33 for now)other people have sujjested i like the smaller box because it blends better with my 5.25 comps up front? so for now im very confused, im going to rammat my trunk / car? and play with bits of 2x4 in the box and see where i get, as for is1pimp and output, i had to turn the gains on my sub amp WAY DOWN when i made the box smaller??????????????????????????????????? smaller box =more output........in my car?

x over the amp @ 60hz and turn the gain up=low end monster

im 'this' close to putting my rl-p back into i.b. config-the sound was just to my likeing- but it will mean sealing up the trunk (fold down seats-rear shelf) properly. im thinking fibre glass and mdf and bondo and expanding foam? any sujjestions before i make mistakes?

with the two ports venting straight into where the speakers on the rear deck have been removed? what calcs do i need to consider? im thinking about 6" pvc x 2 at anywhere between 2 and 15 inches depending on the way box is built? anyone ever heard a set up like this? SUBOX.bmp

why the wait for the new box? go get your mdf and get your tools out

your pics didnt open 4 me? couldnt make out from the thumbs where the box is?

Nope, port lengths don't get halved. So do you want bandpass then? If that is the case, I don't guarantee anything... bandpass is more trial and error than not, and you probably don't even have the space to hold a properly sized bandpass. If you want all the output from the sub to go into the cabin, I'd recommend you to have the the sub face forward, and COMPLETELY seal the trunk from the cabin, and then port the box into the cabin. <{POST_SNAPBACK}> sealing the trunk looks like a lot of fibreglass wood and time- im not ready to do that just yet? trial and error on the bp desighn? why if the physics fit ? total output-enclosure-ports-cabin surely theres an equation somewhere there for a smart fella?

if i want to port via both speaker cut outs do we just cut these port lengths in half and use 1 in either position? also are you thinking about a desighn similar to my 'paint' desighn in the first post? im not intending to port only the port output into the cab but ALL the output from the sub. 1.5ft, 3" pipe 14.5" long: 31.5 m/s @ 25hz 1.5ft, 3" aero 15.5" long: 31.2 m/s @ 25hz 1.5ft, 4" pipe 27.2" long: 18.6 m/s @ 25hz 1.75ft, 3" aero 13" long: 34.3 m/s @ 25hz 1.75ft, 4" pipe 22.7" long: 20.7 m/s @ 25hz 1.75ft, 4" aero 23.7" long: 20.5 m/s @ 25hz 1.75ft, 5" pipe 36.7" long: 13.3 m/s @ 25hz 2.0ft, (2) 3" pipes 22.7" long: 20.3m/s @ 25hz 2.0ft, 4" pipe 19.4" long: 22.6 m/s @ 25hz 2.0ft, 4" aero 20.4" long: 22.3 m/s @ 25hz 2.0ft, 5" pipe 31.5" long: 14.8 m/s @ 25hz 2.25ft, (2) 3" pipes 19.8" long: 21.8 m/s @ 25hz 2.25ft, 4" pipe 16.8" long: 24.1 m/s @ 25hz 2.25ft, 4" aero 17.8" long: 24.0 m/s @ 25hz 2.25ft, (2) 4" pipes 36.8" long: 12.6 m/s @ 25hz 2.25ft, 5" pipe 27.5" long: 16.1 m/s @ 25hz

same as before! so you think the sq will be as good or better or worse than a box in the trunk useing a desighn like this 2x4" ports seems like it might restrict the output to me-but im not the scientist? we goin regular ported 4th or 6th order?

why you tryin it in the neon? paypal ready

you desighn boxes right neon?? wanna try this one?? id be happy to pay! rl-p 12 ported thru rear shelf (speakers removed) 5/6inch pvc pipe max width x 2 looking for 18-80 hz only LSQ???

thanks......

clamshell = 2 subs small box ...stupid low!

i have no preference as to what desighn (bandpass ported 6th 4th order) its just the idea of porting ALL the output from the driver (not just the ports)straight into the car cabin via the rear speaker cut outs. 1.its it going to yeild better LSQ results than a box in the trunk? 2.how would i desighn it to work?

42 views and only 1 comment? anyone!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

will it sound better / louder LSQ than a sealed box in the trunk? how the phuck do i calc the thing?

08-21-2005 12:23 PM <b>The sound report</B> First, let me start off by saying that words can't even start to give these subwoofers justice. I'll do what I can. From the moment I started demo'ing tracks after installation, it was plainly apparent that these drivers reproduce sub bass frequencies with an almost effortless and airy authority. Their accuracy and strength is underscored when playing tracks with multiple layers of complex low-frequency sounds. A movie clip is an excellent example, with music playing, and lots of different sounds all happening at once. Another good test track is Cee-Lo, Sugar. Very few subwoofers that I've heard can execute some difficult parts of that song well, and these definitely do. Audition the RL-P drivers with a Soul Coughing CD and you may walk away with tears (of joy) glazing your eyes. They can, and likely will, reproduce details that you probably never knew were there. I gave these woofers a bit of a beating with some bass test tracks intended to expose flaws in a woofer's capabilities. Some of these send pulsating imacts of sound during extremely low sub bass tones to test the woofer's ability to respond to different sounds instantly, while in the middle of a long excursion motion. Picture a woofer faithfully humming along at a devastatingly-low 30 Hz at extreme amplitude then on top of that, handed a series of hard 80 Hz double kick-drum beats to try to make sense of, without interruption to its 30 Hz extended cycle, and without any hint of distortion. These woofers performed beautifully. I then went on to the frequency sweeps starting at my low-pass crossover range of 90 Hz, during these tests. I noticed that there was a very slight but barely distinguishable roll-off (maybe 2 dB per Octave) beginning at about 75 Hz and down to around 55 Hz, where it leveled off all the way to 10 Hz. This could be due in part to the harmonics of my vehicle. For a few sweeps, I tipped the crossover up into the low midbass range to listen for flavor. While it was up there, these woofers pounded out the sound at devastating levels in the 180 Hz to 80 Hz range. But, their most impressive feat was how accurate they still sounded with more musical complexity in the higher ranges. The sound quality is truly impressive. Every instrument comes through sounding like the instrument that was recorded and not a muddy synthesized version of its sound. Several songs from Green Day, Rush (drum solo), and Mazzy Star nailed it for me. In comparison to the Alpine Type X 12" subwoofers, which are easily some of the most serious woofers on the planet, the SoundSplinter RL-P 12" subwoofers have a slightly less colored and less throaty (deep) sound. They do sound slightly more accurate, and I was mostly impressed with the fact that I could tell, while auditioning them in my acoustically poor SUV. The Type X subwoofers do seem to reside more than the RL-P's in the deepest of sub bass, near and below 50 Hz. The Type X's out-performed the RL-P's on just a few test tracks that seemed to have much more of a focus on extreme low-bass like that bass track: Bass, I Love You. I could also tell a difference in the "shake the chassis" factor, in that the Type X's motor structure weight and almost double the power to push them around, created a vehicle-shaking experience that simply must be felt to understand. Although, I do still get a lot of that physical jarring with the RL-P's, it is notably less. This may actually be a good thing in some respects, though, because the vehicle itself can and does create cancelling waves. Here is proof that a wildly shaking steering column does not necessarily equate to loud and powerful sound: The SoundSplinter RL-P 12" drivers are louder upon initial tests on the exact same tracks, than the Alpine Type X woofers have ever reached, in my vehicle. Measurements of the Type X's have yielded a best 142.5 dB (which is very impressive) and the RL-P's handed over an almost effortless 144.1 on their first day out. That's more than 50% higher sound pressure level. To say I'm impressed would be an under-statement. To say I'm surprised is straight fact. In my listening tests, though, it became plainly apparent that these SoundSplinter woofers shine more brightly in their musicality than in producing extreme sound pressure. A low kick drum sound is produced so precisely that you can almost visualize the size of the tub and how many pillows have been stuffed in there. An upright bass sounds and feels like the instrument is actually being plucked away in the vehicle with the body of the bass pressed up against my chest. My personal musical listening preferences range quite a bit but hover mostly around fast-paced, high-impact, aggressive music from bands like Millencolin, Chevelle, Green Day, Limp, Tool, Pantera, Guttermouth, AFI, 98 Mute, and so on. I also listen to everything from classical to classic rock, and of course some hip-hop and techno'. Considering my range of musical listening, the RL-P 12" subwoofers are about as good as it gets. With a long list of subwoofers that I've had personal experience with spanning nearly 2 decades, through installing in shops, auditioning in other people's vehicles, and those that have found their way into my 17+ personal vehicles, today I can say that, with a wide range of musical styles that I personally enjoy, these are the best sounding subwoofers I have heard. Cheers, Mike, for a truly impressive product! -HiAmp *edited because it didn't need to be repeated 4 times* http://forums.caraudio.com/vb/showthread.php?t=111935&page=5

when i switch my +ve and -ve wires on the sub amp there is a "non-quantifiable" difference in the way things sound, but its really hard to determine EXACTLY which sounds better or right? is there a way with a dmm or some other physical piece of equipment to determine when the sub is connected in phase or is it just a matter of listening to it? or traceing everything back to the hu?

thanks guys will do!

but if its out of phase with everything else when everything else moves one way the sub is going the other? thats got to be bad

no-one got any imfo?

your sub is in yo mommas car?