Sir-Lancelot

I cant take credit for this, I found it on another forum and saved it.

Here you go fellas. Project destroy the Yukon is well underway. List of the goodies Headunit: Clarion DXZ785USB Front: B&C 10NW64 10" Neodymium Woofer Crescendo XST2 Supertweeter Rear: B&C 8NDL51 8" Neodymium Woofer Crescendo XST2 Supertweeter Mids & Highs amps MB Quart DSC 4125 bridged to the mids MB Quart DSC 480 bridged to the tweeters Subs 4 18" XCONS Sub Amps 2 Crunch GP3000D's strapped Electrical Iraggi 260 amp alternator Kinetik HC2000 4 Kinetik HC2400 2 runs of 0/1 * will be buying a dual alternator bracket/2nd alternator set up from tejcurrent hopefully next week* Picture of the victim. Started glassing the front doors The plan Getting started Almost done, need to fill some low spots and sand a little more. On the door With drivers I am going to wrap these in vinyl. Pray for me as this will me the first time I have done this. lol I started on the rear this morning, but I have to go get ready and am done for the day. Taking the kids to the Carolina game tonight. More to come

2 words for you Pro Audio

You can get a hydraulic crimp at harbor freight for like $40. I have one works great.

Welcome

On my oscilloscope my Alpine CDS-117 didn't clip 35/35 with the sub level at 15, turn that shit up.

Come on man! No secrets. He might be up in that number range now where he might want to keep some things close to the vest, or should I say Dickes. Better wear protection if you are putting strange stuff near your Dickie! Spill it Steve! Secrets are the ghey, anticipation is the win.

Nice score Buddy, should be dumb when your done, speaking of.......... Get your ass back to work.

Beast Mode!

Put the switch to 2ch and plug in your RCA in 1&2.

Yep, that is what I need to do. Work warning yummy titties are shown! http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NXpO2wKTzws

Motorboat'n son of a bitch.

Ah, a day late but Happy Birthday Brotha!

you have some dirt on your lip. lol JK Bro, nice photos. Looks like fun.

I ran the B&C8ndl51 and thought it was an excellent mid and can say it sounded sexy on metal. Midbass was not terrible considering the bad Rep PA speakers get and I personally thought it had very good midbass with some EQ. Vocals and guitars you can feel in your chest!!!! Loved the B&C drivers. Curious where M5 is going to go with the tweeter to match.

Looking damn fine Bro! I can't wait to see what it do with more power!

Sexy time!!!! I love them

I had to use the pxa-h100 with my cda117 to unlock active processing, but like Sean says I don't think you need it with the 9887. Did you mean the KTX-100 ? I wouldn't use it either if so.

Case closed. Ordered the md102. Better safe than sorry. Thanks anyway guys.

Today I pulled out my 3 way Dynaudio 362 set today and I see that I have one tweeter blown. I don't know that I want to spend $300 on a replacement set either. I didn't love them that much. lol I am going to run passive as I have the 3-way passive crossovers and dont want to add all the extra amps to go active. I am trying to keep this to a minimum both with weight and equipment used. I am going to put the 8" woofer in the door and 3" mids with 1" tweeters in the kicks. I found that worked better when I was passive on this set so thats where I am going to start first. The passive tweeeter is a second order @ 3.5khz (12db), the mid and woofer are first order 900-3500 (6db), and the woofer is 900hz (6db). I like my tweeter to be a little bright and have a sense of air about it. More open and pronounced than most, but not overpowering or too silibant like some metal domes are. My HU is undecided as I never had a use for a DD until now. I do have the Alpine PXA-H100 so maybe I will look at Alpine for the HU and use that. I was looking at the Clarion NX702 also. The MD102 is an 8ohm tweeter and has a power handeling of 100w. It is a little larger than some 1" tweeters so it had a little more surface area, that said it was always a little too laid back for my taste. That could be because it was on the floor of the Yukon which was not optimum placement, IMO. Ideas on something would be a nice match for this?

Happy Birthday Mark!

Saw that yesterday very amazing, but didnt Tupac release a new album like every year since he died. Hologram my ass. lol Now bring back Lynard Skynard.

Funky Pup's Bro! Dont let that motor fool you, straight up Kryptonite.

I called Dynaudio USA today and was told I would get a call back. Emmelio? SP??? The gentelman that answered the phone asked him if using the MD130 with the 362 passive crossover was a viable option and he said yes it was, but couldnt elaborate as he was on the phone. I will try to call him again tomorrow as that return call didnt happen. I am going to ask him about using the MD130 as a replacement to the MD102 as I read it did not have the roll off in the higher frequencies that the MD102 has. I will ask about the impedance and sensitivity as Sean advised, but what else specifically would you have me to ask him? If it has a little more detail on the higher end, thats what I am after, but what questions should I be asking besides sensitivity to ensure that this is a direction I want to go in? If it doesnt work it doesnt work and I will just spring for the MD102 and play it safe. Thank you for the helpfull replies.

The circuit board & traces (really a schematic would be MUCH easier to decipher) to know what components were in-line with each output. Yes. If you want something more bright & airy on the top end than the Dyn tweeter, I don't think a full range is going to be for you. Given Dyn crosses the 8" mid @ 900hz on a ridiculously shallow slope, it's possible you might be able to run it a little higher on a steeper slope to mate with a low playing tweeter. If that graph is from the manufacturer I wouldn't put a lot of faith into it. What 4-channel amp do you have? Really that tweeter is crossed high enough that most any tweeter would "work" on that crossover as long as the impedance worked out close enough as to not significantly change the crossover frequency, the sensitivity was similar, and there weren't any funky additions to the tweeter section of filter (which from glancing at the picture in the manual, doesn't appear to be anything besides tweeter attentuation). So it's not easy, it's possible something else might "work" well, but going with another MD102 would definitely be a much safer bet. You might e-mail Dyn, they might be able to supply the rated sensitivity to give you a basis to start working from. Ehh....personally, I'm not a big fan of the idea. If you want to try mounting your tweeters up high, you can try it & see what you think. Personally I wouldn't add a 2nd pair. Hell, just moving your tweeters up high might be enough of a pyschoacoustic effect to trick you mind into thinking the stage was higher. IME I get a lot worse response & a lot worse integration with tweeters up high, especially passive.....but that's just my ears. Good stuff guys. I appreciate the feedback and advice. I am going to buy the 4ch ZED Dreadnought. I think it will be a good match with 1&2 on the Dyns and 3&4 on a pair of sealed Gcons. Smallish footprint, current draw should not be terrible as its class D, and has the power I am looking for. I think I will call Dyn in the morning. From my research I am hearing the Dyn MD130 has less rolloff up top than the MD102 does and it cost $80 less to boot. That could be more to my taste if so. I do not see a sensitivity on the MD102 (90db on the MD130), but Dyn should be able to tell me if the 130 will play nice with the 362 passive crossovers, no? Honestly, this prolly has a lot to do with my age and all the loud music I have listen to over the years as much as it does the rolloff in the higher frequencies of the MD102 tweeter. Combine the two and it's not bright enough. lol Getting old is the suck! I may experiment a little bit with the tweeter location. This install may turn out completly different then it did in the truck, but I found it more to my liking with everything right there together running them passive. Woofer in the door and M&T in the kick. I could easily put the mid in the factory dash location and the tweeter close. That would actually be the easiest way to do get them in there, but I am afraid the dome mid would be shit firing off the windshield and I really dont want a pod on the dash to get them on axis. Again, thank you for the guidance.