black_cirrus

If I Remember once I was told there were 8 major battery factorys in the us and they were run by 3 companys. The guy worked for exide but could have been blowing smoke. I have a exide orbital grp75 I think

I know how to edit the pic. but can't remember how to save a screen shot to edit it. it won't right click save as.

How did you do that I can't remember anymore tricks. to get the pic.

that sounds about right my mackie mixer board sub output says 75 -hertz down. The other boxes say 36-130 for the subs and 36-30,000 for the full ranges. So It may go all the way down.

There is one of those in my town, Black crew cab, I think it had tires over 50 inches, dually bed over single tires that must be 2 feet wide, air ports on both bumpers, giant hook on a winch behind the bumper, yellow engine, under the bed in the rear tire well is a crome piece of metal 12-16 inches tall so you dont see thru the frame and bed.. the driver was late 30's going to the gym. made the yellow f-350 crew cab long bed 0n 38's look kinda small. also there a couple times was a deisel jeep wrangler I think it was a 6.5 GM but not sure .

what about a 3.1 just install a center speaker for movies. but on second thought my screens will not be centered so that would sound wierd unless I put a small speaker above each screen. You guys are right this could be more trouble than I thought.

I have really thinking about trying to run surround sound into my car but don't want to spend very much I want to keep my active 3way system I should be wiring this week, cross-overed in my deck I like my alpine 7998. What options do I have no cheap junk like pyle please

any suggestions on a dvd player that play dvd-a and pref. Sa-cd,s dvd movies also stand alone is okay. I think I will try to tune my system better before I do 5.1. but I do like the down mix idea.

for a front center speaker I could mold one in my dash or get a stand alone like this and putting in a rear center would be like putting in any rear speaker not factory. But all the alpine controls except the F1 is 5.1, Not sure on the F1 it may be 5.1 also. And dvd-audio sounds better. the imaging thing may be an item to detour me but I think I can work it out.

my idea was to take the surround processor. direct to the rear speakers, and center speakers(s). use the aux. in, on the deck to control the front components. my main problem is subs to the deck or Y'ed into the sub rcas.

Because I can and want to. Also 5.1 would be fine because to my observevation most dvds are 5.1 but speakers come in pairs and amps are 2-4 channels so 6.1 would be very little more work. 1 more speaker in rear deck and wire to amp.

ghetto times only a few: Hard wired a deck used duck tape only on the connetions. Also used something to test wires but dont remember what now I was 400 miles from home and 15 min from town. at a friends place no tools stripped the wire with my leatherman I wired a door lock relay pair for keyless entry with 2 wire indoor extension cord. Now days I have spare wire and keep a roll of speaker wire on hand and buy elec tape by the ten pack But I have gotten pickier about how the work is done by my stupidist stunt ever thats another story. I still use my jump start pack to bench test stuff.

okay take the rem. off the amp turn on the deck and then press the rem. back on the amp if it does the amp doesn't like the rem. source. most decks delay the amp turn on to prevent pops other wise the pre outs are toast. how did you toast the int. amp

the amps maybe powering up before the deck starts. On my church's sound system if I turn on the second amp that feeds aux. speakers before the mixer board they pop. (the main amps are switched on with the board but the second amp is not used full time. so it is turned on seperate) I would try to power the amps up after the deck is on with a switch or some thing

Thank you for making it totaly clear.Thats what I thought but have never seen it laid out. FYI the 3way switch is a internal menu func. on my deck. now to find some good 4 cond. speaker wire and get it run. I already use the int. crossover but left the sub low pass on because I have it xovered lower from the deck doesn't sound any diff.

well my budget is almost together to rebuild my system I have a alpine 7998 deck. I don't listen to my music very loud usally but I still want good clean sound. I need new amps (and subs but they can wait). Should I go with a higher power amp 100-150+ watt per channel and use the passive crossovers or sould I get a 40-60+ 4 channel and bi amp them with the deck 3way Xover. I have MB Quart 6.5 comp. rated @50-120. If there is a better option I am open to suggestions. I have 50 watts going to the passives and it is close to loud enough but I want more bass and more head room for when I get new subs.

By active you mean the bi-amping option. what would be the best way SQ wise to lower the tweets I don't like them to bright or is it more mid bass I crave???. Should I lower the amp gain or the deck output level. I have done a lot of installs but being self taught I still have a lot I want to learn on my way to better SQ. If I do the active off the deck how do I hook up some rear fill if I wanted to.

thats easy the deck is a pre out only model there is no deck power all those numbers are the rms rating of the amps I want it to sound clean at lower volumes and lots of head room

on a couple of my ideas the end of the amps might be seen and It would drive me crazy to know it's there The rules for the class I was looking at says that 10-20% of the score is install Quality and Origanality So my monster cable fuse box (free) and interconnects (cheap) make my stero sound that much better I figured it was time tuning the components and time eq.

I am going to bi amp my mb quarts and want some recomendations on what wire to use. I was trying to find the best deal on a 4conductor wire 4/16 or 4/14 prefferd. But am open to ideas for a better solution. If it makes a differece the drivers door wire goes right behind the fuse box and computer so shielded or twisted paire would be best?

but going behind the fuse box means I would like a twisted pair for noise rejetion and lamp cord looks tacky. Also If I show my car (not likely after my last amps got ripped off.) the judges if they noticed would think that it is a sub par install. And i do some basic installs on the side and use my car as a demo car. Don't take any of this to personell I like to play devils advocate. And your pretty good but I know what I want, and wanted to know if there was a good source of what I was looking for.

It runs through the door so 90+ degree bends daily. I took a look at the wire selection at home depot today while there looking for something for work. they have a 14 awg 4 conductor wire for $.94 a foot. I may try the 300v they have 600v but the insulation is twice as thick 5/8" over all approx. And lamp cord is ghetto I keep a roll of 16 awg speaker wire around the house the whole role was pretty cheap. The local wal-mart has scosche wire thats what I used for one of my first amp installs but no 4 condutor wire. Wire I can get in small chunks from my friend at the stereo shop I got 2-3 2-3 foot chunks of 12awg twisted pair one of which is stinger he gave me out of the scrape box for something I still havent done. Also at anothor store I looked at 0/1 welding wire 2.99 a foot but is really flexible fine wire. also electicity is lazy it flows more on the surface than outside but I never noticed a difference.

If it is fine strand wire a sharp utility knife. larger strand wire a very fine hacksaw. Or the right way large cable cutters . Which I don't own so it is nice to have friends . By the way my 2nd topic already hit 2 pages, IS ME ????

I agree on power wire and copper is copper. I used standard Batt. cable from Car Quest and soldered copper lugs from ACE on my 2/0 battery cable. But for speaker wire to the Front speakers in the door I need something that is very flexible, I wanted to go through the fatory door boot won't fit more than 3/8-1/2 inch wire so that may not happen. I want something that has fine wire strands.

that would be way to big to run under most carpet probably 1+ inches thick. the 5/8ths was hard enough thats why I want something smaller than the knu Koncepts 12 awg. 4 Conductor. My subs only have 12 awg. I could use a 16/4 preffer a 14/4 wire