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Everything posted by loondizie52
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How thick MDF for 18" sub for no box flex
loondizie52 replied to explosivesound's topic in Subwoofers / Speakers
go 1 inch with 2 inch baffle. all thread that shit with other cross bracing too. 45 all corners and glass, not just resin that bitch up. should be easily strong enough...oh, and dado joint the whole box. like fisher does. really adds lots of structural strength How on EARTH does that work? idk how familiar you are with wood working, but dado jointing interlocks the joints and it is then glued and walled on 3 sides. and when making a box it is compounded and interlocked across all sides and joints. therefore much stronger because there is less of a surface to slide or bend or break. just glue and mechanical adhesion alone is enough for make it twice as strong as a regualarly built box with L type joints. even just rabbt jointing is much much stronger than a regular box... I must apologize, I mis-read and thought you were saying that routing the edges adds structural strength no worries, i was just trying to spread knowledge across the forum -
Need help building a box for the lows
loondizie52 replied to phresh's topic in SPL & SQ / Fabrication
not necessarily true. there are plenty of great subs that have very high tuning requirements. ex- DD, Audioque -
Charging rear batts on charger, still connected
loondizie52 replied to shizzzon's topic in Amplifiers / Head Units / Processors / Electrical
what if you are running one under the hood and only running one in the back, with no solenoid. how do you charge that? -
i had no problems with my FI BL 18's mounted vertically in my wall and they were just regualr drywall screws too
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pre drill and use some industrial screws from a local industrial hardware store...they are very strong compared to reg drywall screws. t nuts are only truly necessary on monster subs in a vertical enclosure or something similar. imo
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im gonna make some kick pods using my old kickpanels in my truck, but i saw a guy on here once making them with 1/4 inch mdf for the mounting plate, and then the rest was foam filler which he resined and glassed directly on top of that then wrapped them in vinyl. is this a good idea, or stick to the regular all glassed way?
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How thick MDF for 18" sub for no box flex
loondizie52 replied to explosivesound's topic in Subwoofers / Speakers
go 1 inch with 2 inch baffle. all thread that shit with other cross bracing too. 45 all corners and glass, not just resin that bitch up. should be easily strong enough...oh, and dado joint the whole box. like fisher does. really adds lots of structural strength How on EARTH does that work? idk how familiar you are with wood working, but dado jointing interlocks the joints and it is then glued and walled on 3 sides. and when making a box it is compounded and interlocked across all sides and joints. therefore much stronger because there is less of a surface to slide or bend or break. just glue and mechanical adhesion alone is enough for make it twice as strong as a regualarly built box with L type joints. even just rabbt jointing is much much stronger than a regular box... -
autotek mm as good as a few yrs ago?
loondizie52 replied to loondizie52's topic in Amplifiers / Head Units / Processors / Electrical
ya same here. the mean machine 3000's and 4000's were fairly popular on the comp circuit but they cost a shit ton and even used they were alot. but they cut those out and only have the mean machine 1000's and 1500's now. and switched up the whole look but idk about internals or performance. im pretty sure im gonna get one for my type r's for the mean time -
2 10's all the way...ive been in a altima with 2 tens that hurt the core. and i had 18s. roll 2 10s with the correct setup and power and it will slam. what kinda car?
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How thick MDF for 18" sub for no box flex
loondizie52 replied to explosivesound's topic in Subwoofers / Speakers
go 1 inch with 2 inch baffle. all thread that shit with other cross bracing too. 45 all corners and glass, not just resin that bitch up. should be easily strong enough...oh, and dado joint the whole box. like fisher does. really adds lots of structural strength -
the kenwood is extremely overrated...i have it. it overheats fast and shuts off (common problem with these amps) and sq is not too great, and worst part is it was bench tested at only 633 rms...weak sauce my friend btw where did you read up on how to build the t-line??
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i have an 01 also and i messed with that forever, and even put 15's on the seat haha. but ultimately best solution was to remove the back seat and make a false floor. has worked great for me. and ive had 2 12's, 2 15's and 2 18's back there before. i suggest that but you can still probly flip the seat up and make a small false floor and then make your box taller vertically. like this, when i had 4 tens sealed...
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i know what i am goin for is the biggest issue but i just want opinions cuz i know what i want, i just want to know what you would pick if the choice was yours
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Is this a daily set up? SPL? It would help to elaborate a little more on what your goals are. its a purely daily setup...i had 2 18 inch BLs tuned to 33hz and i just want something close to that in output but with a smaller set, so i want to either go 1 really good 18 or 2 good 15's. i want it to be loud but not sound like crap or like a fart box setup. and i want total power to be around 3k watts. its in a dodge ram ex cab
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x2 awesome
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where can you get one? ive been looking all over
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sweet thanks for the help man, im pretty dead set on these now....so bottom line, for what i want, 2 15's or 1 18?
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awesome, and would the box size for 2 15's be 3-5? cuz i want it to be overall louder and more punch than a single BTL 18. and whats the safe daily power range for them
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ok and just from reading around ive kinda noticed that you seem to be the guro on AQ which is why i ask you. what do they like as far as box goes for an 18, and hz and power for a daily setup? also, do you believe they are louder than a mayhem or btl, or you just prefer them because of your experience with them? cuz i look at the price of the AQ and im so tempted to get it, but i loved my old 18inch BL's and i had it tuned at 33 so the high tuning from AQ sort of scares me off, know what i mean
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shizzon, would you go with a hdc3 or a AA Mayhem? its for a daily driver in a ex cab truck
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is the power plant series any good or are they overrated?
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awesome, well i love to build my own boxes, so how much just for the sub? how much for the sub and amp?
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do they make a dr 21? i thought it was only dp and wardens? what are box recs for that sub? im highly interested
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ive bought from them 3 times all with great fast results. i had an amp blow and i called them and told them it did, and even though it was out of warranty they still sent me a brand new one. they seemed very good to me. they are in Los Angeles, Ca which is close to me so that may be why it was so quick, idk. but ill bump for them