loondizie52

haha k well nvm my last few posts. it didnt work out. it was cool at first then like an hour later wouldnt hold charge or even keep up voltage without reving it. so i pulled it out again, switched pulleys back. now its good! 14 volts steady off the alt. the pulleys were only an 1/8 of an inch diff and it made that big of a difference. only thing i dont like is how the belt hangs off the edge

well the pulley from the new alt was a little smaller than the stock one. so now the new alt has the stock size one. its not much bigger, just a little.

oh sorry...i dont really want to ask them anything. i just want to work at a decent shop who knows their stuff. i ask stuff i need to know on here already

i just swtiched the pulleys. all worked out great

effin bodyshop took it offf. where can i get a new one. just plain white, like 3x5 or 4x6 ish

i heard some focals today at audio toyz in mission viejo. they sound real clean. have some good bass, but mostly real clean. not sure which focals they were but they have a big chrome magnet

damn idk how you can sit that close...my max is 17 deep. im only 6 ft 235 lol.

im lookin at 2 18 inch ssd recones but im wondering if it comes with the CA glue and shims or not.

so i went to go get the glue, and HD's by me dont carry that glue, only the 5,6,7, and 50 minute ones. anywhere else i can get CA glue from? theres no lowes or menards by me...

hows the truck holdin up with the 18's man? i finally got some 18's again but i think im gonna ditch them for some cascade omegas. whats your dims on the new box? how do you like the MT's?

why not just go with 2 good 15's. you spend the same or less money and get better quality stuff. it will still be as loud or louder depending on what you get. i just think CVRs are a waste of money bc there is so much better out there

ive got a 01 and ive had 2 BL 18's/ multiple 15 setups/4 tens/ 2 12's. pretty much it all. for me subs forward port forward on pass side has worked best. problem goin sub up port up with that 18 is the space. idk about you but i like to sit about 3/4 the way back on the bottom slider and have a decent tilt back on the top. so for me to be comfortable i cant go 18 inch sub up. when i did port up it didnt seem to have the same umf to it. even tho it was the same size box and tuning with same woofers. my roof was louder than sin before i matted it. even still after that, my back window sounded terrible. still does but not as bad when i go woofers forward. ive never tried port side, but i can definately say you wont be dissapointed with sub/ port forward on passenger side. my max specs are like 57 wide and then making a slanted front with 17 on top then 21 on bottom but ive got a battery down there so that limits my bottom then 37 to the roof. i made a false floor so that is gonna be the only way you are gonna get that box to sit good in there because our floors are retarted. also put at least 3 layers of mat on that back wall and sides and up around the back window. it will make a big differnce in sound and feel just by doing that little part. ive done my whole thing 2 layers with that one part 3 layers and it made a differnce for sure. cuts down on window rattle quite a bit too

ya drop the isolator. it will only cause voltage drop and more resistance.

you can get a autotek mean machine 1000D or 1500D on ebay for about 170 for the 1000D and 220 for the 1500D if i remember correctly. i personally love mine and have had no problems with it. they are supposed to put out more than rated too

look at the deka intimidators at remybattery.com or look into the diehard marine platinum series. both are sealed agm just like powermaster and optima and both will run you alot cheaper than the PM. either the deka or the diehard will be the cheapest/ bang for your buck you can get and will be all you will need

wire nut them together

any gucci mane, young jeezy, e-40, t-pain, too short, gorilla zoe. just to name a few.

if you want to eliminate the push terminals and use a direct connect style like AQ or DD do you just solder the 8 guage directly onto the tinsel leads?

how do the mayhems compare to a BTL. and does anyone have pricing for a 18 inch mayhem

i would say forget the mx or W7. both cost too much for what you get. look into FI Q, Ascendant audio havoc, Soundsplinter RL-P

starting a A-pillar and kickpanel build. found these CDT 6.5's for kicks CDT's for kicks with mid level tweeter option CDT 6.5's for kicks with upgraded tweeter and then these for the A-pillars CDT comps for A-pillars what do ya think? or should i stick with the RE 6.5's for the kicks?

ya but i dont know much about them and ive tried to research but i still havent really gotten comfortable enough to try it without some more confidence. the 3 way mostly because i want to have a clean sounding system with good imaging and good midrange and midbass without blowing my whole life savings. ive been playing with the idea of a 2 way set for the pillars and then running an 8" midrange in the doors off a separate amp. speaker works in orange, ca gave me that suggestion. what would be an idea setup for what im trying to accomplish? i am gonna be trying to keep up with 2 18" SSD's

i would like to sell them. as a matter of fact pretty much everything i have.

because i want to do kick panels and a pillars so i need a brand that makes 4" for the pillars and i want it all to match

fosgate t1's. polk MM. focal access. alpine type r and X