PR Audio

Hi, I replied your PM to me -- if you don't receive it, just contact me by e-mail or through my site (best).

M5 is correct: Good / Inexpensive tweeters are available, it's the proper match that's harder. Assuming you have one good tweet left you could send me, I can easily do measurements / get specs on the good one / find a match, etc. Pls. PM or e-mail me for more info., or check my site. (I tried PM'ing you, first, but I guess you don't have that set to work?) One word of caution: Not many small (3/4" / 1") domes can handle much power with a 1st order crossover, unless the crossover is set rather high in frequency.

Ok, I tried Alpine again and got a pretty knowledgeable tech. So, in case anyone else runs into these questions, here's the scoop (from my e-mail to my friend who'd actually purchased the CDA-105; slightly edited to make more sense, here):

Hi, All, I have a couple questions related to the internal subwoofer crossover(?) of the Alpine CDA-105. So far, Alpine Tech support and Crutchfield "advisors" have been unable to help -- they only know what's in the manual, which I am perfectly capable of reading myself! 1) Does the High Pass Filter function (60/80/100 Hz or off) affect only the front and rear line or speaker outputs, and NOT the subwoofer output? I would assume only the front and rear line or speaker outputs would be filtered, but, the manual does not clearly specify. (See page 14 of the manual.) http://support.alpine-usa.com/products/documents/OM%20CDA-105_EN.pdf 2) Assuming my above assumption is correct, when using the subwoofer crossover in the CDA-105 without an external processor, the HPF (High Pass Filter) frequency of the front / rear outputs (line or internal amplifier outs) can be set at 60 Hz, 80 Hz, 100Hz,or OFF (flat). (See page 14 of the manual*.) Is the top end of the subwoofer output (rca jacks) LPF (Low Pass Filter) then automatically set at the same filter frequency as whatever the HPF is set at? If not, what is it set at, or can it be changed? *The info. on pages 27-33 is more thorough, but refers only to use of the PXA-H100 external processor.) I do have access to a CDA-105 and could test it myself, but it's 90 miles away. It's not an extra trip I want to make / time I want to spend, unless I have to. The above seem like a very basic questions, so I almost have to think Alpine simply made an omission in the manual. But, no-one seems to know the answer... Thanks!

I just looked at the H20 12 -- looks very nice, but completely blows the budget & no grill. Drat.

Hi, I'm new here / don't post on forums much (too busy!), but I have a question... I am trying to find out if anyone makes a "Marine" woofer / subwoofer that is fairly efficient / would run reasonably well off a 100 watt (actual total RMS watts) amplifier. Very few manufacturers seem to give complete specs, and the few that do seem only to make very inefficient woofs. One 10" we looked at had a Mms of 186 grams and is ~ 85 dB sensitivity. Our target is 92-94 dB/2.00v/1meter. Other considerations: These are for a friend's pontoon boat. The "enclosures" available are approx. 2.5 cu. ft. A low end cutoff of 50 Hz would be plenty low. 10's might "do it", but a good efficient 12" would more likely be the ticket... Response should peak no more than 3 dB. (2 pi / Anechoic) The environment is fresh water marine, not salt water, but the only locations for the sub's are horizontal (side) firing. They will likely get some water splashed on them, and will be exposed to direct sunlight. Of course, general environmental exposure is of concern. We can / will work in ports that would be pretty much self-draining, water resistant, insect proof, etc. The grilles could get kicked, whacked by gear, etc. Need to keep cost down. (Target cost is $100 max. for a 12" sub and grille.) Boss Audio has a marine 12" that would seem to fit the bill, but, that might be a little TOO "cheapy Chinese" a driver. Has anyone here used one and knows differently?? An inexpensive rubber roll, poly cone, cast frame car audio 12" would probably work if it had the efficiency. But, then coming up with a rustproof grille, separately, is a problem. Metra has one, but I don't want to pay $38 (online / with shipping ) for just a grill. I don't even know how strong / what quality it is. I have an SL Audio Woofer Tester Pro, so any analysis / tweaking / tuning that needs to be done is no problem. If only MB Quart made a 12" marine sub... Thanks in advance!

Then my buddy has to carry it... Back to the marina or his car each time. It's a decent little walk from where he's docked, to either. But, thanks anyway.

Pref. a 4 ohm driver. EN12D will be 2 ohm or 8 ohm (coils // or -- ) EN12S4 is 88 dB. Appears to have a roll too wide and heavy for the rest of the design, but might be ok if nothing better turns up. Prob. does work pretty well with a 200-300 watt amp. Almost wish I could turn up an old Paramount Audio (remember them?) 12 and put a rubber roll on it.

Hey, everyone, thanks for the input. I see a couple of possibilities to check out, esp. Alumapro. The only problem with a poly / metal cone, rubber roll CAR sub is the grille: We need something that won't rust and can take some pretty good whacks. Metra's got one, but it's pretty pricey. I've thought of, but have not checked out, the possibility of modifying a wheel cover. If anyone else has any other suggestions... If that (the mod'd wheel cover) worked, there are several choices, including the cheaper Polk Momo's, perhaps, as I've seen them in some "Marine" woofer listings (with no grill supplied.) They are poly cone / rubber roll - would have to check if the frames are really rustproof, though. There's really no reason the driver should be pricey: Parameters-wise, something like the old (really old) Lanzar OA-124 models up just fine in a 1.5 cu. ft. box, and we have more volume than that, even subtracting off the driver displacement and the port displacement. Theoretically, the driver could have even less magnet, esp. if Mms was held down a bit. (Modelling done on PRoResponse* program and briefly cross-checked on LEAP.) The only thing that needs to drive cost up is a relatively tough, rustproof grill, and rustproof, or at least rust resistant, basket and steel parts in the "motor". Poly cones with rubber rolls are CHEAP in China. Since we have multiple, fairly solid, 2.5 cu. ft. "cabinets" already just sitting there (the "armrests" at the ends of the seats), using them sure seems to make sense...

No big questions at this time! I'm just here, checking out the forum.

That is in reference to being a n00b in the hobby, not a n00b on the site. I mean the article about not crossposting, etc. http://www.soundsolutionsaudio.com/forum/i...?showtopic=1458 Sorry, I wan't specific enough!

Haha - kinda funny: That etiquette article that is on this forum says not to advertise one is a newbie, but then we are directed here!

I've known Jacob for several years - talked to him recently - thought I should check out the website and forum.