Scarenius

I got pointed to this forum, so I read a few threads, most of it was post whoring and bullchit. I grit my teeth and registered anyway.

Effendi: Finally common ground. I have headphones plugged directly into my sound card and physical volume knob between. =p

To who asked, I got my Rainbow Soundlines from speed & sound. www.speedsound.com. I actually bought the Dreamlines, but after a shipping mixup, they sent the SLCs in their place. =) They have a mellow sound. Strong midbass. Silk tweeters that are never harsh and only topped by my Aura set. Very nice. The 187s... well, I listen to metal, so I don't really appreciate the enclosure like I should. I can tell you it gets loud and low, but only if the music does, too. ;-)

I've done a LOT of car audio in home, from amps to speakers to subs. Just hear me out before Effendi goes flaming. Setting up a system in a home / office is a lot easier than doing it in a car. The reason is imaging can be almost <i>perfect</i> if all you need to do is aim your speakers at a chair or couch. I recommend trying cheap 6.5" comps in the office. I did that in my room with Roadmaster 6.5"s. Imaging was key. The better you can get the imaging, the lower quality speakers you can get away with. While they're supposedly built for IB off axis use, using both can make for some nice results. I can't recommend anything for the house. I've done that with cheap prefab surround setups that took no tweaking. However, looking at most prefab in home subs, they try to aim for the flattest possible response.

You didn't call anything. You publicized a PM. You know what that means? It means I don't really have a choice as to where on this forum I put my criticism. People like Effendi will publicize them anyway in their own threads. So, tell me then, what have I done besides cry BS at your "scientific facts" in the 10 lies thread?

Class H with it's mid 90% efficiency rating is where the power's at. Just try and find one, if they exist.

Sounds like a damaged potentiometer (volume knob itself). I'm not 100% on how they work, but Radio Shack will usually have generic ones you can wire in it's place. Apart from that, Best Buy has a repair center...

Effendi: Ever think you're wrong? You can't be serious in telling us that 20000 people WE KNOW OF with distinctive tastes and preferences are ALL wrong in tuning their setups because of the lack of expensive electronic equipment. People made and tuned the music in the first place. You really think the beat in hip hop is naturally that loud? Better yet, you think some computer looked at the waveform and said "Hey, if we raise the 36 to 42 hz range by 16db, all the black people with subs and white wannabes without are gonna go out and buy this chit!"? The only thing your method is truely good for is testing with 3rd octave pink noise.

1992 Ford Taurus GL HU - Alpine CDA 9807 Front - Rainbow SLC 6.5" components Front amp: PPI PCX 280 Rear Fill: none Subs: two IA 187 12s sharing 3.2 cubes tuned to 32 hz Sub Amp: MTX Audio Thunder 1501D @ 2 ohms No upgrades planned as of late.

Oh, I know. IHOP is just horrible. I've seen more intelligent posts in a Yahoo chatroom.

Well, I simply implied that no damage would come to the fan from reverse polarity.

Ok, I'm re-reading it. Lie 1: high quality cables pwn low quality cables "...It is a lie that has been exposed, shamed, and refuted over and over again by every genuine authority under the sun..." If there are so many documented instances of these tests, you are logically proving you're full of chit by not linking to at least ONE. Lie 2: Vaccuum tubes sound good Again, he says "tube sound" is a figment of an audiophiles imagination or simply intentionally added noise. Again, the BS meter goes off because I doubt this guy ever actually listened to a tube amplifier, else he'd have something more specific about the difference in sound. Lie 3: Analog Sound > digital sound It is impossible for audible sound to BE digital. A watt is a measurement of analog power, so if digital music existed, there'd be no need for power amplifiers. You'd have a mathematical processor that added "1" a half million times over to the digital source to amplify it, with a cost of less than 1 constant amp at 12 volts. He *is* right in saying the best available storage mediums are digital, however that's debatable. Lie 4: Double Blind Tests don't work He mentions comparing Pioneer to a Krell amplifier. Well, both have similar THD levels. He also failed to mention who did these double blind tests, where they were done, and how they were done. In fact, you're just relying on his word that they *were* done. Period. Take a Hifonics BXD amp that can reach 10% THD at full output, and compare it to a Power Acoustik that has less than 2% THD at full output. You think blindfolded people can hear an 8% difference in THD? Well, you can hear a 4%... Lie 5: Negative feedback = bad Inherently, you shouldn't have negative feedback, because if you do there is a problem in your install. Like CHEAP CABLES INDUCTING CURRENT FROM A NEARBY GROUND (See lie 1). Dispite being countered by today's technology, it would still be there. He said himself that no feedback technology was the rage, so it's obvious that no feedback is NOT bad. Lie 6: Burn in required No argument against this. Only mechanical equipment benefits from this. Lie 7: Biwiring is cool I don't even understand where he's going at with this. Unless you're talking about biamping components and using one amp to power the mids, and one for the tweets. In that case it would be necessary to bi-wire the crossover unless both amps were strappable. Lie 8: Power conditioning is necessary I can tell you from experience with DC power, your amplifiers know it when they don't get clean DC current. While he's right saying you don't need an *external* method of conditioning power, unclean power, like from a poor ground, will lead almost unmistakably to alternator whine, which CAN be taken care of with external power conditioning. It's not a lie, just not a necessity. Lie 9: You can corrupt the binary data on CDs. Ok, take your fav CD, look at it's shiny underside. Now flip it over to the cover. With a knife, dig a neat little scratch about 1 inch long anywhere you like. Now listen to the CD again. If it's not corruption, what is it? Lie 10: People have keen hearing and they know it He's right. Keen hearing is simply knowing what to look for. Point made.

* Biostar M7NCD Nforce 2 ultra 400 motherboard * 420 watt ThermalTake power supply * AMD Athlon XP Barton core 2500 + underclocked by about 100mhz * 512 Megs of generic PC2700 DDR Ram * Geforce 6600 Video Card * Sound Blaster Live! 5.1 * 13 year old CRT monitor (1600X1200 @ 65hz) * 56K modem * Red Hat Fedora Core 3 60 FPS in Doom 3 at 1024 X 768 high detail ;D

I didn't see you answering the original question. IIRC, you shouldn't worry about reverse wiring them, I've done that before- makes the fan blades spin backwards. =p

After seeing that 10 biggest lies in car audio thread, I'd think you were mentally exhausted not proving your point, Effendi. =p To answer the thread, you will probably need about 8-12 cubes NET for a folded horn enclosure for an 8 inch driver, so you don't have a choice as to which you would put in a car. Observe:

Effendi: Short post, simple statements. Give us proof of your "Scientific facts" or I'll send my science team after you.