jcarter1885

They way you started this thread and are going about it, is what is causing all this backlash. Nobody cares if your the loudest trunk with xcons, even if you are. Try being the loudest trunk car then people will probably care. Search youtube as there are people who are on their running xcons, who probably dont come on this forum. There is another dude who just installed 2 Xcons in the trunk but hasnt even gotten them metered yet, you can see his build log on here.

If you cant clearly clarify or convey what you mean then maybe your own definition or understanding is not fully correct.

My guess would be a distribution block. Probably 2 runs of 1/0 from rear battery to a distribution block in. Then 2 runs of 4 gauge on the distribution block out, one going to the starter and the other going to fuse block. One run of 1/0 to alternator from distribution block out. Hope that makes sense, just how i probably would do it. But wait for more experienced users to chime in.

I love the miniature ports, every enclosure surpasses the last one.

Dude respect the board and leave the issue alone. It doesnt involve you one bit so stop trolling. If the original owner has something to say let him as it has nothing to do with you what so ever.

My current front stage amp:

Was it know that this was happening? Seems like more precaution or wire planning should of been in order.

Size of subwoofer has nothing to do with low lows as you say, thats a myth.

Gain at 1/3 means nothing, you could be getting full power at that position. It isnt a volume knob, it's there to match the input of your preout voltage of your radio. Birth sheets mean nothing, as they dont test every single amplifier.

Displacement on 12"s?

First go measure and see what usable dimensions you have available, that should give you a better idea. But from the users who own Zcons they leave bigger boxes so a 12" in 2.5-3 cubic feet may be your best bet.

Cool

I seen pictures from this show, heard it was a blast.

Has nothing to do with the size of a subwoofer, just a myth.

Everytime you make a thread about someone helping you design a box you leave out the most important information. Who can help you if you dont give us the dimensions you have available or want to use.

I like Coleman Coolers :

Here is an easier way to understand running active and believe it or not your running a certain speaker in your setup now active, yes your subwoofer. You have two fixed points picked on your amplifier to control what frequencies are played when using a ported enclosure. The low pass filter (lpf) which limits how high you want your subwoofer to play, usually set anywhere from 50-80hz. The sub-sonic filter aka high pass filter (ssf/hpf) which limits how low you want your want your subwoofer to play. These are known as band passed filters or running active. Applied to mids yes you want band pass filters. You need a low pass filter to control how high you want your mids to play, usually no higher than 2500hz (depending on mids and setup on hand). You also want a high pass filter to control how low you want your mids to play, usually 60-80/100hz (depending on mids and setup on hand). Applied to tweeters no you dont need band pass filters but you need a crossover point low enough to help mate with your mids. You simply just need a high pass filter to control how low you want your tweets to play, usually around 2000-2500hz (depending on tweeters and setup on hand). No low pass filter is needed because you will lef your tweeters just roll off naturally. That's kinda simple once you understand it, the hard part is gonna come down to tuning your system. Learning how to adjust the crossover slopes (6db, 12db, 24db) with the crossover frequencies at the the power levels your running is where it gets tricky. Your mids may love a 60hz at 24db setting but once you turn the volume knob up some you may find that it needs a 80hz at 24db slope to perform well and not distort on certain songs. Thats why you usually play tweets alone to test and find their limits, same with mids.

I wouldn't advise anyone to do a three way active setup their first go around. Active vs Passive (quick info) Passive means the crossover points and slopes are fixed for each speaker, normally in a crossover box. All the work is done by the crossover box and comes in between the speaker and amp. Just like your traditional component set. Active means the crossover points and slopes are variables for each speaker, until you find what sounds best to you. The crossover points and slopes can be adjusted or tweaked by using an active capable head unit, dsp or active capable amplifier. The head unit is the best because its at your fingertips for on the go changes. A dsp can be fun and packed with a lot of features. An amplifier can be used as well until you get more equipment, it will be harder to know exactly where you are crossed over at. Basically your turning your head unit, dsp or amplifier to a crossover box that comes with a component set if you went that route. Hopefully that makes sense this early in the morning. This way your not stuck buying over priced components and it allows you to pick drivers based off your needs and wants. Sites like madisound.com, parts-express.com and usspeaker.com are great sites to choose raw drivers from. Im no expert in choosing drivers but once you get a better handle on running active, make a topic and their are plenty of members here who will lend a hand. The silverflutes are nice budget beginner drivers but depending on your listening habits may or may not be enough output for you. Would it hurt to grab a pair for the price and practice going active, no it wouldnt. No, I only have them in the door in the factory location.

I really like the sound of that. Thanks for your input! The Leviathan really is a little more than I want to spend right now. Do I really need 6 channels? I am completely new to the active world, but I enjoy research. Do you have any good links I can learn from? On Pioneer's website, the 80prs is no longer listed. Is it replaced with a different/better model this year? I do see it for sale on Amazon still for $270 I made that mistake the other day and thought it was discontinued as well cause I didn't see it on the site as well. But after you click on cd receivers, you have to also click on the products tab. Otherwise it is just going to show you the units that came out this year in 2014 only. A pioneer dealer on another forum told me it was just on back order at the moment. Hopefully that is true and it is not discontinued. No six channels are not needed, just depends on what you want to run as a front stage. Usually a 2 way, mid and tweeters is how you want to start out. if its your first time going active. A four channel amp will do what you need it do, but if your planning on running a high powered front stage then yeah a six channel would work or (2) 4 channel amplifiers.

How are your grounds looking (on amp and battery)? Have you messed with settings on amp or head unit since upgrading electrical?