jcarter1885

haha i guess not

oh ok becuase I know it would of been worth it if you did since they swayed you to want to switch already, but quite insane. well im used to 12 hour drives since thats how long it took me to drive to school in Tallahassee, FL just one way.

i ground my radio's to the chassis from now on to eliminate any issues

yeah i got rid of my pioneer headunit and it was the best thing that happen to me. get a kenwood xcelon, alpine, eclipse, clarion or jvc

how far was the drive? do you have a video Mark and my sundown saz-2000 wont be too much for the xcon as long as I keep the gains down? whats the driver displacement for an 15" Xcon, going to start designing ported enclosures asap? appreciate ya

good video, nice flex and clean truck. what size box and tuning if ported?

ok thanks for the correction, learn something new everyday. well i upgraded the factory wire leaving the engine block to cars chassis(sanded paint and cleaned with degreaser) from 4 gauge to 1/0 awg wire. My whining went away that I had ever since I got the car and put a stereo in it and my voltage is great and steady even while idling but before both were problems since saturn doesnt ground to an unpainted frame(both battery in trunk and engine block underhood were grounded to painted frames). As stated early by the person who started the topic he wanted to know was upgrading the ground wire leaving the engine block to the car's chassis ok if you dont have a ground wire leaving your alternator (I was wanting to know the same thing)? Somebody stated that we should add a ground to alternator to car's chassis also, is that necessary also?

yeah just dont put to much between the outside panel and the inside metal frames (that holds it together) where you cant get the key in the key hole to open the trunk but its cool cuz I have three ways to get my trunk open without using the key

x2 x3 good amp that puts out more then rated power with a nice electrical. x4 or you can get an aq1200 for $249, cant go wrong with either amp and good luck

Expanding foam has quite a few applications in a car but it isn't a substitute for vibration damper. You really need to use both - each where they are appropriate. Neither is a cure all for rattles. You need to track each one down and treat it - tighten things down, tape wires, foam between panels that touch, etc. Well in my car it worked perfectly, my car is light and my trunk is even lighter(sounded very hollow when opening and closing). Now that I used the foam my trunk is hollow and it helped fill the gaps between the panels and frames where I cant get to when I want to add some type of dampening mat, just a start to a long process. Now when I close my trunk its more of a solid, heavier piece that does vibrate or jump around as much and it help to keep the bass in the car, when I hit the lows now all I can say is wow(wont work for everyone but it did for me, just thought I would offere a cheap solution which some people do need between panels and frames where deadener mats cant go.

thats a bad sign to get dc from an amp, thats why your speaker is going bad

you can get plumbers expanding foam at wal-mart or home depot, lowe's and target

thats a good car off voltage but that starting voltage should be better. All with stock alt, batter but Big 3 Done: Im 13.1 with car offf Im 14.7 when car first cranked Im14.1-14.3 with lights and ac full blust with two high amps on, 93 degree texas night

well yeah thats cool if thats what you have, go ftw with the 16g and be done with it

we are answering your questions in one topic, why make another one right after it. just ask all the questions in the same topic and someone will get to you eventually.

haha now that i think of it.. i do.. i just got like 17ft of it in that amp kit that i dont need.. but for the power and ground i'll probably just use 16g rockford speaker wire.. sound good to you? in my opinion i dont think that will be needed but maybe someone else will chime in if im wrong, it is still going to read the voltage of the vehicle the same with either wire.

well in my case i dont have an aluminum casing for my alternator, the bolts are the same color and made from the same metal as the alternator

i just used the standard blue 18g remote wire but 16g would do the trick if you dont have any 18g laying around just make sure your ground wire is the same as the power wire

If i upgraded the wire coming from my engine block to car's chasis with 1/0 awg wire, then I should also add a 1/0 awg wire leaving my alternators casing to the car's chassis also even though their is no ground wire on my alternator period?

I have mines wired into the radio's wires since I customized my dash kit and fit it into the pocket under the radio. I suggest you use your radio's wiring since you will probably have that voltmeter somewher up close to the dash so it can be read easier

definately definately.. the wire is packed too.. it's not just all insulator.. quality stuff.. but head on down to radio shack.. got mine there only $20.. already tested my voltage and was just about to post results.. and some more pics eventually.. but i need that sub and then i can really have fun do you have a voltmeter by any chance? yeah i have an audiocontrol epic-160 that has a voltmeter on it, right under the radio

great products in a wiring kit, i got to get my hands on a multimeter asap. Im mad you beat me to punch, have fun installing

the kicker zx2500.1 is the only amp for ya, it does 2500+rms at 2ohms or just get the fi btl 18" in dual 2 ohms for a variety of amps to choose from

Check out my gallery and see what I did to eliminate rattles in my trunk and cost me less than $13.00, just bought 3 cans of plumbers expanding foam and where gloves. trust me it does wonders

I did the same thing since my alternator is didnt have an actual ground wire coming from it. I just upgraded the wire leaving the engine block to the cars chasis that was their from the factory to 1/0 awg wire.