jcarter1885

Whats Up

Do you have enough room to just double baffle the whole box? Unless you dont want to take it back to Home Depot and can only use one layer around the box(except for baffle) then I would just brace it for more support.

either go both sub and port back, port up and sub up, port back and sub up unless you have a skihole in your seats. we cant really suggest the best placement since we dont have your car but if someone who did could chime in otherwise its just a toss up. plus wood is the cheapest thing in an install so building a box wont set you back if you dont like it or it doesnt sound good unless you pay someone to build it for you(local shops that charge $200 or better).

push done on cone and see if their is a nasty sound or does it move freely? do the same test you did with your amp to your sub, take it in the house and wire it a high ohm load and play it on a home stereo at low volume to see if it works; but if the home speaker worked on the amp and the sub doesnt then I think its something going on wit the subwoofer.

a voltmeter will always help you out, it never hurts to know your voltage unless your gonna get out your car and go test your batteries and amps every few minutes. a very small and safe investment. have you looked into h/o alternator for your car.

well if strapping them at 2 ohms is the safest way then i guess that is the way to do it.... how will the subs be wired to the amps? wire them in series to 4 ohms each and when added together they should drop down to a 2 ohm final load.

Thats the best advice and all the advice you will need, by SecondSkin dampening FTW!

x2, Sundown SAZ-1000D

Thats the same reason why I get Kicker wire because of the twisted strands, make installing easier.

Either way it wont matter since you will be giving both speakers the same power either way, usually it would matter if you run them at 1 ohm or 2 ohms (since a lower ohm load = equals lower power and less strain on the vehicles voltage) but in this case you will be bridging at its ohm load stability also so I think it will be an even call. It just boils down to personal preference. Sorry jay-cee your incorrect. lower ohm load = a higher strain on your electrical system. you loose efficiency as the ohm load goes down there fore your amplifier requires more amperage. Its solely dependent on the amp if you can run it at .5ohms some can some cant. In my opinion i wouldn't run an amp below rated specs unless your aware of the the harm you can do and willing to live with the out come. For a daily situation you'll be far better off at 1ohm and that would be the best advice i can give you. I meant either way he wired the subs up 1600 x 2 @ 1ohm or 3200 x 1 @ 1ohm it would be the same, I didnt even answer the question about wiring it for .5 ohm load, I only did that too one amp (memphis power reference 1000.1 just to see how long it would last for and it did for almost a year) and I didnt even know thats how I let a local shop do it awhile back. Vowed to never let them do my work again, but I would never recommend anybody to run a amp below its ohm stability unless you wanna kill your amp eventually and cause a lot of strain on your electrical.

yeah I thought it looked like a clash between a standard slot ported enclosure with a t-line enclosure, very impressive. how are those arm rest amp racks working out for ya?

so whats the game plan now?

Either way it wont matter since you will be giving both speakers the same power either way, usually it would matter if you run them at 1 ohm or 2 ohms (since a lower ohm load = equals lower power and less strain on the vehicles voltage) but in this case you will be bridging at its ohm load stability also so I think it will be an even call. It just boils down to personal preference.

haha good lookin out definately don't want to abuse that amp like i do my 250 very good and useful information thats why my Saz-2000d is still boxed up. It's misinformation. yeah in your case running that 2000d at 4ohms and low gains and volume would be ok, but im at 1.3334 ohms all day and dont feel like rewiring three subs, thats why in my case I looked at it as good info considering I only have stock battery, stock alternator and two amps for mids and tweets already.

Yeah it doesnt matter how long it is(the shorter the better), but yeah change it to 1/0 gauge and it will even do your system more justice. Change the ground wire from your alternator to engineblock/cars frame or engine block to cars frame to 1/0 gauge and it will help also. Upgrading your power wire to 1/0 gauge will be the last step and as beneficial also.

yeah we were just joking for your situation (but for some people who dont know that those values must be thrown into the equation when building a ported enclsosure).

haha good lookin out definately don't want to abuse that amp like i do my 250 very good and useful information thats why my Saz-2000d is still boxed up.

It had a huge signifigance on the heat, what else did you do besides switch out the ground for the amp if nothing(then that should answer your own question for ya). As long as the wire is the same size as the power wire in the amp or bigger your cool. What size power wire did you have compared to the ground wire at first and the ground wire you have now?

x2 thats what you should of did from go since they do have the same rms no matter what ohm load and their is no stability at 1 ohm.

do you think that if he turns the sub sonic filter off it will benefit him or no really matter? I am currently running my 3-12" cvx's(1.3333 ohm load) to my profile ap1200 (2 x300 @2ohms, 1x600@4ohms and I know its a bad idea dont really care about those amps since they will be replaced soon) and do not run into that problem no matter how much power I through at them. But the amp does not have SubsonicFilter on it? I also ran a Memphis at .5 ohm load (2-12"' cvx's) and didnt have that problem neither, even while the amp died on me a year later. So could it be some type of technology that JL audio has since I've never ran into this problem myself?

yeah me neither since I never paid attention to them (just ran the cursor over them and it stated vote post up/down).

really? i thought that played a large role. like i thought if it was 90db sensitive and u had 2 it would be 93 and then you double the wattage each time and that increases the db by 3 ... then if u have a hatch it adds around 16db Now I dont know about that one especially gaining 16db's by what car your using (I do know that hatches put up great numbers). If Im wrong and they do then tomorrow I will be buying one and Im pretty sure everyone else would have one too(at least for a competition car).

well its bad that you dont have an adjustable subsonic filter but in your case your good since it is set a few Hz below your box tuning and not at20 or 25Hz like most fixed subsonic filters. whats the actual measurements of your box: outside (d x w x h) port (l x w x h) and is there any bracing inside the box, what size mdf was used? Also turn your subsonic filter off and see if it is still doing the slapping or popping noise at volume 20-22.

voting for your post

even though i know the setup was completely different done by different installers using completely different products. But was the difference in how the system sounded just by turning the subs around (I know you will get less truck rattle that way and more output by facing subs into cabin). I did this process in a room where I had some good speakers in a box where I would place the speakers facing the wall almost 2-4 inches off the wall compared to flipping the box around where they were playing to the open area with no wall blocking. In my opinion the subs hit deeper and harder facing the wall, im guessing since they were bouncing off the wall giving it that extra boost. When I flipped the box around to the open area the bass was much louder and not as deep. I thought that it was only good to flip a box around in a car if your seats had a skihole in them or does he leave his seats down all the time? I was gonna say would the seats block the output but it would block the same output no matter which way the box was turned.