jcarter1885

What are the rms of those subs or your wont know till you start testing (are these the monsters, or just another line of subs)? Subs look excellent, hopefully 1-15" will be good enough for my 2000D.

My SAZ-2000D is better than yours, naw im just playing but excellent pictures all your came out better than mine.

they r dual 1 ohm and wired parallel. i have a cda 9886 its 4 volts. and no they did not know anything about them so i told em to look it up lol. as for big jobs im not really sure. i only went there to get my cda and my subs put in. they did an ok job. the finish wasnt great but it sounded awesome so i wasnt complaining. i was eventually going to do something with the finish though bcuz it was bothering me. nothing major im just picky i guess. and to duran, if 3/4 is to high then how high should it be set. or how can i figure out how high it should be set. Is each speaker wired in series or parallel? If they are wired in parallel individually then they had you at .25 ohm load, which I doubt the shop was that dumb to do but you never know. If the coils are wired in series and the subs are wired in parallel like the picture below then your fine since is a 1 ohm load. http://www.the12volt.com/caraudio/woofer_configurations.asp?Q=2&I=12

Thats what the remote control is for (as a gain adjuster, if your gain is at 50% on the amplifier the remote will play it from the maximum level of 50% to the minimum level of 50%). The OP was just talking about the bass boost setting on the amplifier it self.

I honestly dont think they can take no more than 800 rms personally especially with that hard plastic cone, I had a pair on a 2000rms amp also but never came close to blowing them. But anytime I was playing full tilt (where my settings were at before clipping, each sub seeing 750-800rms) or close to it, I could hear the plastic cone thumping and the sub bottoming out plus it would play any louder after a certain volume. I noticed that alot about subs that have a plastic cone, they distort more when you get close or to their rms potential. just my experience with them

ok, I appreciate ya I was on their website and didnt find them anywhere; Im guessing I'll have to email them about them.

I have 2-Eminence Alpha-6A(6.5" midranges) in all 4 doors on a Sundown Audio Sax125.2 that will be hear Wednesday. I plan on deadening the door frame and panel with Damplifier Pro but plan on putting these on top of the Damplifier Pro and positioned right behind each speaker. Will these be Deflex Power Pads(link below) useful or is Damplifier Pro all I need? If it is useful then will car rubber floor mats work just as good or are these made out of completely different material? http://www.parts-express.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?Partnumber=268-242%20%20%20%20%20%20%20%20&FTR=deflex%20speaker%20pad&CFID=11884925&CFTOKEN=17974532 Thanks for the input.

http://www.poweracoustik.com/pa2006/product_AUDIO_amp_gothic.htm its the ovn1-3000d..... what u think?......or what would you recommend I would recommend an Audioque AQ2200D, Orion 2500, Sundown Audio SAZ-2000D or Incriminator Audio IA20.1; just off the top of my head. SAZ-2000D FTW!!!

x2, either get an Audioque AQ1200D and save money or up your budget by $60 and get the SAZ-1000D, Sundown Audio FTW!!!

No more Loud Button!!! (In Baby Joker's voice from Next Friday)

Yeah I read it and plan on doing all the basics (damplifier pro on both door frames) just wanted to save some money and go buy some car floor mats and just wanted to know were they made of the same material as the deflex pads thats all. but thankx again for the input and great read.

I recommend you save up some more cash and grab one of these package deals, might just be your best bet: http://www.soundsolutionsaudio.com/store/categories/Package-Deals/

Sundown SAX series amps and old Kicker 04 SX series amps (onlinecarstereo.com) are amps that can be used to adjust the frequencies needed to make your system active, without buying a new headunit or equalizer (those amps have all the settings you need).

x2, because at the end of the day it will be a waste of $200 to spend on an amp for now just to be replaced in the future with a more expensive amp when that money could go for what you want in the first place. I have a SAZ-2000D thats under my bed because I dont want to put it in because I dont have the right electrical but it doesnt make me want to spend some extra money to buy a cheaper amp just to hear my subs. Just hold out at least you got your subs now (1 down , 1 to go) amp later.

Ight so saying that is it safe to say i can turn my amps input level max and the fuses wont blow??? No. Do NOT do that. It is stupid. Read. x2, I never turn any input gain above 75%, just for the wear and tear on the amp. You need to buy a dmm or oscope to properly set your gains my friend.

Basically you wont lose anything by switching to 15's, unless you go to a cramped box that is not suitable for the 15"s. If you cant get a decent size box in their for the 15"s dont go for it but if you can then you will gain slightly more output (just a little noticeable because of the extra cone area). Thats it

Whats up, Im loving the all black look

Boss amps are overrated all day and that 3500 watts is PEAK NOT RMS, your amp is putting out anywhere from 800-1000watts RMS. So that amp will be fine your subwoofer now if you already have it in your possession but eventually I would suggest you step up the quality of the amp eventually. just my .02

I thought the SAX-50.4 was new and it is already leaving your portfolio Jacob.

Received my amp this morning and I appreciate the service guys.

I would first suggest to cross your sub at a higher hz around 70 or 80 to help out a little bit with the lack of bass a higher ranges.

Two Basic Definitions Active A word prefacing certain circuits in which the processing is performed by use of transistor or tube juctions, rather than passive componenets such as resistors, capacitors, and coils. Such items as crossovers and equalizers may be constructed either way. Active processing usually affords more more options, and greater precision, albeit at greater cost. Passive Component In a crossover system, a non-powered component used to separate an audio signal into a specified frequency band before it goes to a particular amplifier or driver. A passive device usually incurs some loss (expressed in decibels) to a system. Typical such components include capacitors, coils, and resistors. Passives are your typical component speakers, they come with the band width and frequencies already set in the crossovers that come with them. Actives are crossovered at the head unit/amplifier/equalizer.

its ok that way as long as you have room to drop your sub in, I like both designs and to me its a toss up (goes by your preference); but I would go with port back and sub back.

x2 because thats the next H/U I want when I decide to get rid of the Kenwood X, someone on here already has it maybe he could give you and me a good review on it. you woudn't happen to know his name off hand would you? it is fobanginvtek

measurements are the only way someone will be able to build you a box give us the max dimensions that you want to your enclosure to be (l x w x d), do you want a sealed or ported enclosure?