jcarter1885

Number one what amplifier will be running this, you may reach your goal but its to many factors to tell you if you reach 135db or not (depending how good the box is built and good of an installer you are). Not having enough power for a sub is not a problem, their is no such thing as underpowering a subwoofer (the only way you will clip the amp is not setting your gains correctly, use a DMM). The DC Level 3 comes in D2 and D4 voice coil configurations. Next time you post about a sub make sure you give us information on the actual sub itself, is it a 10", 12" or 15" and what voice coil configuration?

To answer your first question, it depends on how big of a battery you can throw in the primary location (starting battery spot). To wire a battery to another battery just go: battery 1(positive terminal) --------fuse--------------------------fuse-----------battery 2 (positive terminal)-----fuse-----amp battery 1(negative terminal)---------------------------------------------------------battery 2 (negative terminal) or you can just ground this battery to a part of your cars chassis. Oh yeah, purchasing a voltmeter will help you in understanding if you need more power or not (depending on how many volts your dropping or light dimming issues you have then you know you will need an extra battery or what not).

Excellent! First off, I hope I'm replying correctly. We'll see. Secondly, given the forum stipulations whereas a newbie's first 3 posts are posted in this section, I suppose I'll ask my initial questions here: I will be obtaining a 2001 Saturn L200 in a couple months, and I feel that, to properly introduce it to my ownership, it deserves to be punished a little with a single 15" slot ported subwoofer set up. I currently have 2 shallow mount Kenwood Excelon 12" sealed subs powered by a Rockford P1000.1bd running at 2 ohms in an old work truck. I plan to swipe that amp for the Saturn setup. The Rockford pushes 891 watts RMS at 2 ohms, and 1,300+ watts RMS at 1 ohm. After much research, I became quite interested in FI's 15" subwoofers. I have yet to see a negative review thereof. My questions are: 1). Would it be best to go with a dual 2 ohm subwoofer powered at 1 ohm, or a dual 1 ohm subwoofer powered at 2 ohms. I have no experience running any such 1 ohm setup. 2). If the advice I receive includes 1 ohm power, should I go with the 800 watt stock SSD, the SSD with the power upgrade, or a stock BL? I'm opting out on the Q model, as I want to build a box big enough to tune to 25 hertz or less, depending on RE Audio's brilliant box calculator. 3). If the 2 ohm power option is more suitable for my application, I'm aware that a stock SSD is about all that's feasible if I buy my subwoofer from FI. *** Whatever the case may be, I desire to listen to my setup as much as I feel like and as loud as I feel like without any concern over an over heating amp. I understand Rockford bds are 1 ohm stable, but does that mean it's daily driver stable? Thank you all in advance. Peace. If you wanna run the SSD(Dual 1 ohm version) subwoofer then run your amp at 2 ohms, if you get the BL(dual 2 ohm version) then run your amp at 1 ohms. Running an amp that is 1 ohm stable at 1 ohms is fine and good for a daily driver (just do the Big 3 Three upgrades and add a good secondary battery). I wouldnt tune any subwoofer setup for a car below 25Hz, the SSD requires 33Hz tuning and the BL requires 28-37Hz tuning.

Personally if your not louder than him, than you shouldnt be in car audio at all. Just my .02

Ditch the cap, upgrade the big three wires to 1/0 wire and buy a secondary battery (well if you dont want to do it then waste your money on damaging your equipment, alternator, etc.) If you can get the sub changed to dual 2 ohm(try emailing them tomorrow to get this issue fixed), the sub will see less than the rated 1700wrms @ 2 ohms but it will still power it well.

That should do you justice since you have an ho alternator and stock battery. Since you said you cant fit another battery then go ahead if thats what can fit, buy a voltmeter(if you dont already have one) and watch your voltage.

Glad you could join us.

OK thanks for the info. I'll have to remember that. On another note Texas smeared UTEP across the field today. Damn, that was a blowout. I definantly appreciate the update because I didnt watch a lick of College Football today at all, until now this Purdue and Nortre Dame game and cant catch the score of Texas's game on the bottom of ESPN because Im paying more attention to this forum.

He stays in Wisconsin not the West Indies.

I cant wait to see the build log for this, makes me wish I was still in Florida .

Regardless if you dont notice something, your subsonic filter really should be between 0-10Hz lower than box tuning.

No dont do it, bad customer service and reliability is iffy. If you cant even purchase a used Sundown then go Audioque AQ2200D and you will be fine, good luck.

Here's the correct link: http://sounddeadenershowdown.com/cgi-bin/index.cgi

Either talk to shizzzon or use the search function because there was two topics about this within the last month.

I personally would turn that sub-sonic filter back to where you had it, about 1/4 of the turn. Just my .02

It would work in his favor if he had a Dual 1 ohm sub, to get the full use of the amps. He is better off wire that sub to one amp at 1 ohm and call it a day.

Never heard of those before. But over all I am looking for a decent set to replace some 4" dash speakers, and 6x9 door speakers. All wiil be powered by an amplifier like the one in my signature. What is your thoughts on running set of 4" coaxial and set of 6" coaxial or 6x9 2 or 3 ways? Instead of running componet setup. I personally wouldnt run coaxials, either stick with the components or go active. Just my .02

If you want a used Sundown Amp check out db-r.com

8 gauge would fit in the terminals but I think its just overkill to use, I personally run 13awg from my three subs to an 8 gauge connector then just one wire leaving each connector (positive and negative) going to the amp. Its all personal preference but 8,10, 12, 13 is acceptable.

Im sorry to be that guy but hey it costs to do it right or eventually down the road you will run into problems and have to do what you should of did from start. Considering I didnt get an HO alternator yet, I havent upgraded 1 of the 3 wires in the Big 3 and thats the power wire leaving the battery(rear of vehicle) heading to front of car to fuse box, then starter and then alternator(I left it as 4 gauge). I replaced my grounds though: engine block to car's chassis with 1/0gauge and battery to cars chassis with two runs of 1/0 gauge (my voltage sits at 15.1v when car starts and no accessories with very small voltage drops with stock battery and alt running over 1300 watts and no light dimming at all). So if your not getting a HO alternator then you wont have to upgrade the power wire unless you just want to, so that should save you some money and yeah you can do it with 2 gauge(I would buy 2-2gauge wires for battery and 1-2gauge wire for you engines ground wire. Just my .02

Just to be safe I would put 4 gauge on both of the amps, coming from a distribution block and 1/0 wire leavin block to fuse to battery. I have had a 4gauge leaving battery to fuse to distribution block then 4 gauge to each each and it did okay. Once I switched to what i recommended earlier, my amps have cool to touch longer, even my voltage liked the upgrade but nothing major. You minus well do it now, never know if you will upgrade and at least this part will already be taken care of.

So your telling him to just let it sit over night, so if it is a problem with his settings eventually it will be worse. OP just give us some more info, the sub may be fine or you might be hurting it.

Can we get a lot more information than that, please. What electrical upgrades, equipment, box and enclosure, etc?

Keep it up, I bet you will have 150 by tomorrow and if not before the weekend is over with for sure. Good luck man and keep on working