jcarter1885

What a huge surround for 10", I know these will freaking pound and push some air.

Reading would help, he said he's looking at shallow mount subs and yes a custom box is the best instead of those prefab boxes.

Have you used them or heard them, and if so give him some more info on why you think there pretty good.

Do you drive around with your lights on all day, no (your gonna have voltage drops regardless man). Set the gain with a DMM or O-scope, the only proper way to do it unless you do it by ear which alot of people dont have that acquired technique. Yes voltage drops will fuck up and amp if you are dropping to low, by a voltmeter and place it somewhere is seeing distance so you can always check your voltage while riding around and bumping (never let the voltage get as low as 12volts, some say as low as 12.5volts just to be on the safe side). If your lights are dimming still after this is done and your voltage is dipping a little then do the Big 3 Wiring(search around if you dont konw what it is, there are plenty of topics with it around this forum and internet). If its still a problem then look into getting a high output alternator or extra battery.

Everybody on here may disagree with you on that, it seems like KnuKonceptz has this board on lock when it comes to wire(thats my next wire to use also, Im upgrading from Kicker Hyperflex which is supposed to be awesome).

From what I read about shizzzon and others trying to compete that you should just build a simple box and play tones on up to 80hz I believe (or less) and see have a mic handy (doesnt have to be accurate) to see what frequencies your hitting higher dbs at and that should tell you your cars' resonant frequency. If Im wrong then the SPL gods on here will help you, but check under the SPL thread on this forum and Im sure its a few topics that this is posted in. Good luck man.

It could be a number of things, distortion/port noise. Check your amp settings: LPF-80Hz or lower SSF-1/4 of the way or higher Bass Boost- Off Phase- 0 Gain - should be set with a DMM (check under Amplifeirs/Headunits/Electrical thread and look at Setting Amps Gain Correctly) Head-Unit Loud- Off Bass Boost/Extension- Off If it is still doing it then it may be port noise or the actual speaker itself. Get back to us when you have some more information.

I havent used it but will be when I start my install, alot of people on this site use and are very happy with it (it has more strands than Kicker Hyperflex 1/0 which I use now).

The first step to making this system better is building the proper enclosure for them, I would try a few things like trying to tie down the panel to rear deck or something along those lines to keep it from jumping. Nothing major just some minor things can be fixed from the info you gave us and the small footage you showed, for you to be 16 its not bad at all ( I know people double your age who still do shitty jobs) .

Instead of coming on here you should of talked to db-r.com, since he fixes amps he could probably give you the best troubleshooting advice or tell you if it needs to be sent in to him for his repair.

The size of the sub has nothing to do with the size of speaker wire you use, you can use 8 gauge to 14 or 16 guage (its a personal preference, I try to use 13 gauge or lower for my subwoofers). I just go to Autozone and buy there cheap rcas, they are all cheaper than $10.00 and work perfectly with my Sundown amps.

I had already corrected him, he meant laugh.

Note racing to any owner faults like he put out broke products, just not going to buy from someone who doesnt try to ship it packed better than what it was. That battery should of been wrapped better than that because it looks like it had a hard fall and it wasnt to much protection in that area, just my .02.

I think I was going to get some of these same batteries until you posted this, who did you get them from so I can steer away?

x2, I wouldnt mind a Sundown screensaver or background photo.

x2, that would be a good start. Did it come with a manual or something explaining the installation process?

Sitting at idle causes everybody to have some sort of voltage drops, just depends on how big of a drop. How much is the voltage dropping while at idle?

That is a good point if a BTL would be louder than a BL, then people should just grab a BTL from go and if they choose to throw more than 1000rms at it then they can ( I would just save up those extra duckies since I will always have the room to upgrade if need be). I personally would of thought a BL would have the potential to be louder at its peak rms potential while a BTL was only around halfway, what a funny issue.

Damn thats crazy because I would of thought a Jimmy was wider than my Saturn Ion, I have a 34" trunk opening and 35" is you remove the weatherstripping; I have 43" between both wheel wells.

Actually changing out the starting battery will help if the battery is bad or if you get a bigger one but if you get the same size with the same specs then it will be useless.

A 135 amp is not an ho alternator, any 2000rms system would benefit from a upgraded alternator, extra battery and bit 3. People are telling you this for reason, if all three are recommended then do all three (dont do one or two and think your fine). But if you want to shortcut the process then just add an extra battery and do the big three, buy a voltmeter and watch your voltage(thats the best way to determine if more electrical upgrades are needed by voltage drops).

Another question, If i don't get a secondary battery or new alt, and i have to get the dual 1 ohm sub and wire it to 2 ohms getting the said to be 1700w rms (probably 1500w) do you think it'll still pound? I was going to go with a jl audio 13w7 but i was convinced these were better subs and much louder, my goal is to beat my buddy in a db drag, hes got a stock alt, stock battery, 0 gauge wires, a rockford t1500.1bd amp and its powering 2 13w7s he said hes hitting 143's on the termlab. well since he has two and you have one and hes running about as much if not more power then hes gonna have you, but if you go big3 then another battery I think you can be right there next to him and easily beat him Thats the worst info ever, yes the sub will pound and still be loud (there is no such thing as UNDERPOWERING a sub, it will actual preserve some of the life instead of pushing it to its limits on a daily). Just because a sub is recommended to see 2000rms does not mean it needs all 2000rms or more, be careful with your equipment if you want to keep it. You may be able to beat him, you may not its all install dependent (box, tuning, power, electrical upgrades and vehicle all play a role). Nobody on this website will be able to answer that question, just be happy with you equipment and treat it right.

Just pick one, they are around the same price (nobody can make this decision for you, its one you will have to make on your own).

What does it stand for?

Your note supposed to blast your music really with it idling, that could cause some voltage drop, how far below the 14v is it falling? How does the voltage due when riding around? Yeah a battery charger would be smart since your alt cant charge all those batteries everyday, allday. I added an extra ground from my battery to my cars frame and that helped keep the voltage stabile even at idle, just a tip. Maybe someone with more experience with the electrical side of things will chime in.