jcarter1885

Yeah I think I know what you're talking about, was it the Router Buddy Circle Jig? Jasper Circle Jigs (needs a jig saw to use it) or the Router Buddy Kit (needs a router to use it). I would choose a Router though, after using a jigsaw on my last enclosure (since that was all I had); it reminded me of back in shop class in middle school and how easy a router was in circular cuts. Jasper Jigs are for a router. They work well, never had a problem with mine. Corrected, thanks thats what I meant.

Yeah I think I know what you're talking about, was it the Router Buddy Circle Jig? Jasper Circle Jigs or the Router Buddy Kit. I would choose a Router though, after using a jigsaw on my last enclosure (since that was all I had); it reminded me of back in shop class in middle school and how easy a router was in circular cuts.

I used a jig saw when I made my box, theres something on parts-express.com that makes cutting holes a breeze but I dont know what its called off the top of my head.

Yeah your best bet might be some 8"s if your trying to hit the lows, dont know to many 6.5" speakers that will cover the frequency range under 40Hz. Just my .02

Get at Shizzzon, he will help you out with this.

If you read up batteries they say most AGM are safe mounted in any location (it just depends on the type of battery), just do some research on batteries from their websites and you will get some of your questions answered.

It should be but nobody really know's for sure, your best bet is to install it and get a voltmeter and watch your voltage.

No problem.

Actually we said put it exactly where A is, not really between the two (the best output will come if you place it exactly where A is). The furthest away from the port hole and opening is the better for your sub.

Two sexy ass beasts .

I have been on this forum (http://www.fiberglassforums.com/) lately, someone from SSA recommended I go there and I been learning alot just still havent actually attempted any fiberglassing yet. Hopefully it will help you guys and good luck.

x2, I know that the sub should be farthest away from port if it is sitting in the box so I assume the same thing for inverted (I just never been a fan of inverted subwoofers). Just my .02 right on, i have heard of folks having preferances on the look, however i have not been able to find a test to show pros and cons of the inverted style. I guess if there was some info pointing out any considerations that should be taken acoustically, then i would be most interested in seeing the results. I have seen the same info that you and ///M5 have provided suggesting that the sub should be far away from the port opening, so it is looking like that is a simple enough solution for the sub placement. If someone has something to add toward the inverted sub, i would be interested in hearing about it. I guess it is okay to address it here , even though that was not what the poll was......... if there is more input maybe i should start that poll. thanks chop I would start a poll on inverted and ask people why the prefer one over the other, so that topic can be the only thing covered instead of jumping back and forth like it is under this topic. Good luck man on the decisions (thats the hardest part of the install, deciding what to get and where to put it).

Ah..... but the OP is asking about speakers not subs............... He is just going around saying things and giving suggestions(bad ones at that without explaining why), without even reading all the posts in the topics.

x2, just go to your local car audio shop or home depot and get some 8 gauge wire butt connectors.

What trouble shooting have you done since this problem.

Go get some cheap rca's, Sundown Amps do not like the expensive or top-notch rca's. I got my rca's from Autozone, the Tsunami kind for $9.99 (all sizes) and they work fine.

Another place for some low priced carpet is AutoZone, parts-express.com works for me and I use Internet Explorer.

Gain should be set using a DMM (digital multimeter) turn it down to about 50% or 60% until you get a DMM and set it right. The Low Pass Filter should be around 40%-50%, see which one sounds better. Sub Sonic Filter should be around 25% of the way up, Phase should be 0 and Bass Boost on Off. When you get the settings changed get back to us and give feedback if it does sound better.

The Sd can be two things (speaker displacement or speaker surface diameter/cone area), so yeah your right.

A is the best location man, and if FI says that your subs inside diameter is 11.7" then thats what it is (they have no reason to lie to you). Good luck with the install.

Any subwoofer can be blown, so whomever said that about the BTL steered you wrong. That amp will be fine, what is the enclosure's tuning frequency. The sub is supposed to be excurting, thats what they do. What are the setting on the amp? LPF= 80 Hz or lower SSF= depends on enclosure tuning Bass Boost= Odb Phase= 0 Gain= How did you set it? Shoud be set by DMM (read tutorial under Amplifiers, Headunits/ Electrical Thread called Setting Amps Gain). Head-unit Loud= Off Bass Boost/Extend= Off

x2, I know that the sub should be farthest away from port if it is sitting in the box so I assume the same thing for inverted (I just never been a fan of inverted subwoofers). Just my .02

If you had to stay with Kicker then I prefer CVX's over the L7's, they just sound better in my opinion but personally I would look at the SSA Store and see what subs they have to offer also (check out ficaraudio.com also).

What were the pros and cons of each if any.

There is no magical formula for making an SPL box. Testing differen't enclosures in your vehichle is what to do. Do you know what your vehichles peak frequency is? Find a shop or person with a Term Lab and find your peak frequency and tune your box to that or around that frequency . x2, the best advice given; plus lots of tuning/tweaking and adjustments to car and equipment to get numbers (it will take a lot of patience and time but it will pay off in the end). Good luck man.