jcarter1885

Nobody can tell you how many dbs you will hit if that was the case there would be no point in bying TL Meters.

No that is not true.

Glad you could join us.

I saw that episode also, I was tuned into that one.

Any way to check it? Only way to check it is by installing it, just make sure you can install in time before your warranty expires so you know it works.

ah gotcha well i am runnin it at 1 then thnaks for the info Great idea just in case something happens (which it wont it will still be covered). Make sure you buy Dual 1 ohm BTLs'.

Im enjoying the progress, take a break and have a .

Im on the same boat as the OP, I have been doing research on subwoofers (how they work, the different parts and what they mean). I got a handle on the terms and meanings of T/S Parameters but on how to apply it point of view or someone not so knowledgeable in this area. I been looking at subwoofers trying to decide what to get, lately its been a toss up between a 15" Kicker CVX and 15" Sundown Z15 in a ported enclosure around 28-30Hz to pick up some impeccable lows. I know the Kicker is 20.1Hz (Fs) and the Sundown is 28.585Hz(Fs), for example if I tune an enclosure at 28Hz (how will each driver be affected since the Kicker Fs is lower than the tuning and the Sundown is right in the area). If I tune the enclosure at 30Hz (how will each driver be affected). Any advantages and disadvantages for each woofer in that certain enclosure would be appreciated, and any other info about understanding subwoofers T/S Parameters in lamens terms would help also. Thank and Appreciate you guys.

Read this first : Get the dual 1 ohms so you can run them safely at 1 ohms. just my .02

Take some steps back and really plan this because your all over the place (just because you have to money for it now doesnt mean you should blow it). How much trunk space do you have to work with, give us max dimensions of trunk room if you cant figure it out. Dual 1 ohm Subwoofer Wiring: Parallel = .5 ohms (.25 ohms) Series = 2 ohms (1 ohms) Dual 2 ohm Subwoofer Wiring: Parallel = 1 ohm (.5 ohms) Series = 4 ohms (2 ohms) Dual 4 ohm Subwoofer Wiring: Parallel = 2 ohms (1 ohm) Series = 8 ohms (4 ohms) In Parenthesis is the ohm load when using 2 woofers with the same voice coil configuration.

Set your amps' Low Pass to 100Hz/80Hz or lower to what your preference is. Start at half way and work your way down, half way should be around 125Hz.

OK, I really misunderstood what you wanted to do... I made a second back pannel that I mounted the LCDs in/too, I did not cut a hole in the enclosure itself for the LCDs... I think this will have or develop leakage issues and be bad on the LCD.... Thay say not to even mount electronics on the back of a Sub enclosure because of the vibrations, but in it... Yea I was way off and mis-understood... Not trying to rain on your parade, just trying to be helpful as thats what were all here for... Well, most.. Well, you've already got it cut out, so hopefully it works out for the best!!!!! If this will upload, here is how I had just the two LCDs, one on either side of my amp... I can't find pics of it with the Amps in the front of the enclosure and the bigger LCD in the middle... We re-did it like 3-4, 5 times... I'm never happy... See I understood where he was wanting to go with it so thats why I was telling him not to do it, if he said something like what you have in the picture then I would of said go for it. Nice fucking install man, love the extra work and detail put into it. OP I do hope it works out for you in the end, will the displacement from the tv affect the box's size and tuning to where you wont want it or have you already calculated that into play before putting this idea into action. Just curious is your signature your future updates or what since I only see one sub and box?

Look at the little man J'd up from head to toe, looks like he has a Jordan fetish like me .

Hey guys how about yall calm down a little bit, how many companies besides the ones on SSA fill you in with new products and information, none. Yall should be patient and wait it out (Nick actually has a job during the day and a life) while getting a new product to its best shape ever is not an easy process since he has to work any kinks it may have if any. Just wait it out and be happy he posted this on the forum and Im pretty sure he doesnt sit here all day like some of us do, so give him a little break. Good job Nick on business and keep up the good work .

I apologize I didnt write that I got from the Maxxsonics guy on another forum, those were his words. The only way you will see those 1700rms is if your voltage stayed steady or at 14.75 volts. You are probably seeing the 1328 volts at 12.8volts (some where in that region and since music is dynamic you wont see 1200-1300 rms from that amp every second). Voltage can be acquired by doing the Big 3 Wiring, adding a HO alternator and batteries. In your case if you stay under 2000rms then you probably wont need an HO alternator right away, just do Big 3 get another battery and a voltmeter to watch your voltage (if it falls or is not steady then more upgrades need to be made). Naw all amps arent the same but the should be consistent with each other (but I dont test amps so I wouldnt reall know but from logic I would assume they would be a few watts off give or take some). If you want to test it then clamp it and bench test it a car audio shop or find a way to do it yourself.

Haha hilarious.

I would definantly do some research on my amp first before posting false facts and sell that amp and get something better. Here's the facts: OK! Let me give you just a little info on the crunch amps. The GP1500D and the 2500D are rated at Max power not rms. Also these amps are unregulated so the more voltage you give them, the more power you'll get (but they do have high voltage protection around 16.4 volts). The 1500 made 857 watts at 13 volts, but a whopping 1189 at 15.5 volts. This was at 1.1 ohm reactive and all of that power is usable. The GP2500D made 1328 watts at 12.8 volts and 1704 watts at 14.75. These test were also at a 1ohm reactive. So they do more than most people would expect. Oh! The cross-overs in these amps are incredible. They have really good control over your subs. I'll tell you about the 3000 later today!

Sometimes its just the thought of the equipment in the car that still gets you excited even though its not hooked up (you will be riding around listening to a song imagining the bass lines and how they would sound).

There is no way you can run a D2 ohm subwoofer at 2 ohms.

if somethign is wrong with the amp could i send it to us amps and get it fix? Yeah you could send it in to them to have it fixed or repaired (is it still under warranty, if so that should be the first thing you do).

When you tried all the troubleshooting and the problem is still there. Is your amp new, used? What headunit do you have in your car, check the head units settings and the amps settings (I mean everything just to make sure, even to see if the amp is LPF)?

Glad you could join us and no problem about not having a build as of yet. Be glad you didnt join this site with a system in your car like me and now Im changing everything I have in the car (scrapping some ideas and altering the ideas I wanna keep), it will give you time to at least get some decent info on products and car audio itself (not like you need some since you have PorkChop by your side).

More info would help: how long have you had it, how much power has it seen, how long have you used it and etc.

Yeah you could power the amp up with stock alt and battery (but I wouldnt want to fuck up my amp by sending it low voltage just cause I want to bump). Your better off doing it the right way and getting a ho alternator and at least one extra big ass battery in the back to play with it. If you notice voltage drops still then yeah it will be time for a second battery in the back. Just my .02

Not talking down on shops, but just becasue they hooked it up doesnt mean they did it wrong (I know it sounds weird, but believe me alot of us have been burned by car audio professionals or car audio shops). So take a look for you own good and it wont hurt, I would check my grounds on amp, my connections on amp (make sure positive and ground are in right spot), I would even take my subs out and check the wiring just to be safe. If you need any help on how to do so, there are plenty of helpful people like myself or CrazyKenKid and others who will give you a hand or walk-thru. Good luck and post some results after they switch amp out.