jcarter1885

I know everyone has their favorite subs and I see your favorites are SSA, since your a box builder I thought I would ask you what is it about SSA subs that move you (just curious)?

Glad you could join us, Sundown Audio is awesome.

Yeah setting them with an o-scope is accurate and the best way to set the gain but the DMM is the way to set your gain for people who arent aware of setting gains correctly (it will help you from messing up your amp or subs also).

Well state your goals and equipment then tell us why you feel you need one? I dont like capacitors because they only do one job and thats hold power till you need it, instead of making power or helping make power. Just my .02

hifisoundconnection.com since they have refurbished items but you should check out db-r.com and look at Sundown Amps (the refurbished ones, better customer service).

hey jay cee your getting 15v with a stock alternator? After upgrading my main batteries ground from 4 gauge to 2 -1/0 AWG wires and upgrading my engine block to cars frame from 4 gauge to 1/0 AWG wire I sit at high voltages on a stock alternator and stock battery. Honestly it depends on the weather (since CCA are more on a battery than CA yeah my voltage does get up to 15.3 when I first turn car on but after it warms up its in the high 14's maybe at 15volts even till I move around just depends on how cold it is). Usually on a normal temperature day I will start at 15.0 or 15.1v and it will go down to 14.8 once car start warming up and moving.

Any amp within both subs rms range or more for headroom, it has to be 2 ohm stable with an adjustable sub sonic filter and underrated that fits inside your budget. What budget are you working with?

Any amp within both subs rms range or more for headroom, it has to be 2 ohm stable with an adjustable sub sonic filter and underrated that fits inside your budget. What budget are you working with?

Sweet!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Pictures or lies.

turn the bass boost all the way down.. ok i went and checked the amp... x-over freq is set to its lowest setting 50 hz. bass boost some how turned itself all the way up to max 18db+ and gain was about 30%. i turned bass boost completely down to 0. and turned the gain up to 50%. do you think that is ok for now? until i can set it using an o-scope? You should be fine were you are at now, see what I typed in most post earlier about head unit settings also (put tape over you knobs on amp because kickers have a problem with changing by themselves, this will help keep them in place). You can turn you LPF up to 80Hz or a little higher depending on your preference but it will sound a little better than on 50Hz. Good luck

Turn the bass boost off and turn the gain up some (but i suggest you use a DMM to set the gain accurately). Turn the Loud/Loudness feature off on head unit and Bass Boost/Extend Off as well.

Hook either another amp up to the sub in home or car, that will tell you if its the subwoofer or amp.

really they are not 1 ohm stable that kinda sucks where you useing it to run an fi Yeah a kicker zx1000.1 is 2 ohms stable (dont worry about what birth sheets say because if you try and run it at that power you will run into clipping (plus they just test one amp out of every 20 or 50 or so and write that number down as all amps birth sheet results). Actually it doesnt suck regardless the company brand your running with it because of its 2 ohm final load, what matters is the voice coil configuration that you have? I wouldnt buy a kicker amp either since they have set SubSonic Filters and you cant adjust them which will require you to tune your enclosure around the sub sonic filter instead of your liking.

Since I didnt upgrade my alternator and being my battery in the trunk, I just left the factory 4 gauge wire from the alternator to battery (positive) and still got excellent results, its up to you personally.

Read New Topic Guidelines, gives us more information (nobody can tell you what your electrical will need if we dont know what upgrades you have, what stock components you have and what all equipment you are using in the car ). Thankx

Check the link above and quit yelling. THNX AND I WASNT YELLING Acutally you are yelling so stop typing in all capital letters, turn your ALL CAPS/CAPS LOCK key off.

Its easier to hide than a BIG ASS WALL in your car, which everyone can see and if you get pulled over there is no way in hiding a big ass wall full of woofers if it were illegal (use common sense, I know people do shit that is illegal all the time including me).

If walls were illegal people wouldnt have them. You just gotta have side view mirrors on the doors if your rear view mirror is obstructed by something but since you have them your cool.

First we gonna need some more information as to what your goals are. But yes most people say ditch the rear fill if your gonna have subwoofers in the trunk and you dont ride with back seat passengers (since when you go to a concert the music comes from in front of you). I ditch my rear feel to let more pressure in from the trunk into the cabin from the subwoofers and worked out perfectly. I would run that front stage set of speakers to a 2 channel amp, are you gonna stick with regular component speakers or are you trying to go active?

I would just get a distribution block or find some wire reducers (I think thats what they are called and use them).

Are you sure you bought two Dual 1 ohm subwoofers because you stated in your first post that you wanna wire them down to .5 ohms, what voice coil configuration are you subwoofers?

Np problem and good luck.

Yeah I usually start with my grounds first so if you dont finish at least your ground wire will be bigger than your positive wire running from battery to alternator.

You will be fine with two different batteries, no isolator/solenoid needed unless you playing your system with car off alot. Just make sure to get an agm charger to charge your secondary battery from time to time to take some work off the alternator. Just my .02