jcarter1885

And whats the one thing that will be tested?

No. x2, but your pocket will fill the difference thats all.

Now that would be a good idea, hope they consider just might have to start saving up some money just in case.

Frakenwoofer went out like a champ, still retiring on top.

I might. Ok, so if they are dual 4 ohm, is there any way to run two of them off an MTX RFL600D at 2 ohms? I was never really good at figuring out multiple sub wiring. I'm basically trying to decide between 2 187's (I'd have to build a box) or a single LI (already have a box). Daily driver, all types of music. Yeah you probably would, glad to hear you dont care about your life. D1 ohm = .5 or 2 ohm load D1 ohm (2 subs) = .25 or 1 ohms D2 ohms = 1 or 4 ohms D2 ohm (2 subs) = .5 or 2 ohms D4 ohms = 2 or 8 ohms D4 ohms (2 subs) = 1 or 4 ohms

What do you mean by how is the electrical? It's a 99 Tahoe as already stated. The subs are wired the same as the image here http://akamaipix.crutchfield.com/ca/learningcenter/car/subwoofer_wiring/2DVC_2-ohm_mono.jpg except it's 1 ohm coils instead of 2. By electrical we mean did you do the Big 3, what batteries do you have, is it stock alternator or ho alternator (anything electrical that you updated to help your system out is what he is referring to).

Haha, take their asses out.

Thanks denim but it not quite the entire line. The others im missing yet is the 75.2, 120.2, 275.1, and the 475.1 but these are by far the most rare. Still on the look out though. I do understand collecting things, but why are you collecting (are you gonna do some all ESX builds in the future or are you just gonna keep them so they can collect dust).

No problem and good luck with install, dont forget to post pictures of your build log when you get started.

Have you even hooked up your system and played it for awhile at full tilt to be giving this advice. To the OP, you know you need a HO alternator when your voltage is dropping like crazy and you arent getting full output from your equipment. Get a voltmeter, a HO alternator and probably another batttery to be on the safe side. Just my .02

Just because someone says a sub can take double what its rated doesnt mean you should give it that (that is for more experienced people who know what their doing and can hear, smell or see signs of stress). Give it what they recommend, thats why they recommend that 300 rms rating. Just becasue someone said they jumped off a 3,000 ft cliff and landed with no problems would you go do it no, so dont always imply what you read or hear in your situation (every build, goals and preference is different in installs).

Get a better headunit, it seems like you got this installing under your belt (know just flip a coin between the 18" subwoofer you want and go for it). This decision process is up to you know, we cant tell you what sub to pick thats a choice for you.

I wish I could close topics because I would of closed all of these he made by now.

Give each sub what their rated for or less (since you have Q's then you dont have to give them rated power but since the BP Power is free you should get it and dont have to worry about sending each sub 1000rms all day). If .8 is what FI recommended then after displacement it will do fine (I doubt they would tell you what box to put it in and it not work, its just yeah most people achieve for the biggest recommended enclosure size when making enclosures).

see u dont fuckin understand this deff not my first install not even neer the first probably my 10 or 11 install. nad yes i am gettin two kinetik hc 2000 and a 250 amp alt You cant get mad and emotional (thats a females trait) when people are trying to help you. Stop acting so young and act grown becasue everyone your talking to is grown so respect your elders. If you were to follow the rules and post how you are supposed to then you wouldnt be getting all this grief (you brought this on your self).

Stop posting in all these topics you made, now people are giving you the same advice. Just post in one of them to make things easier, your crowding up the forum man with the redundancy. Stop with all the questions mark, you only use one in school after a sentence and we do the same here (correct grammar and spelling, part of the rules your supposed to be reading but obviously you dont care to read them).

only have the money for 1. iwant to run it on an ap 3000 i drive a volvo wagon! How bout you buy 1 and then another 1 later (you dont have to throw your system in right away). Either get another better amp and buy one sub or just buy some other cheaper subs that will take that power. Use common sense when buying things, dont buy a 3000 rms amp but dont have the money to buy a sub(s) that can take the amps power. Or just buy one amp and run it at 4 ohms instead of the two ohm final load it can take (just cause your amp is 2 ohm stable at 3000 rms doesnt mean you have to use it, thats why amps have other ratings at other ohm loads). i know that but see im only 15 and i rarley get money i first was going to get a dc level 5 18 but i want something thats going to have sound quality and be loud ass hell! No such thing as sound quality and loud ass hell, just stop trying to rush it. Exactly why I said save your money so you can do it right the first time instead of messing stuff up.

You dont want sound quality with 3000 watts that can beat hard, you want a sub that can handle what your amp can produce so you can be loud ass balls and disturb everybody.

If he says he has no more left then use the FOR SALE THREAD to find some or just wait like everyone else has to.

No wonder why your not following the rules, doing research or asking these type of question. I know youngsters dont like to follow the rules or do any work at all just want it to be done for them. Take some time out to read the rules of this forum and you will get better help and will be able to ask better questions. Stop rushing to buy something without searching or doing your own research ( if your intereseted in a subwoofer then email the company about what you want to do and your goals and see what info they share with you). Take some time with this since you pobably dont buy a car (you probably want to buy a piece of shit so you wont fuck up a $500 sub with your lack or knowledge, skills or experience). Also every subwoofer sold on this sites store is not a piece of shit sub, so thats the last of your worries. But rushing will leave you with fucked up equipment at the end of the day.

only have the money for 1. iwant to run it on an ap 3000 i drive a volvo wagon! How bout you buy 1 and then another 1 later (you dont have to throw your system in right away). Either get another better amp and buy one sub or just buy some other cheaper subs that will take that power. Use common sense when buying things, dont buy a 3000 rms amp but dont have the money to buy a sub(s) that can take the amps power. Or just buy one amp and run it at 4 ohms instead of the two ohm final load it can take (just cause your amp is 2 ohm stable at 3000 rms doesnt mean you have to use it, thats why amps have other ratings at other ohm loads).

Subs are gonna be loud regardless, pick what you want sound quality or loud. If you want sound quality then go 12's sealed and if you want loud then go 10's ported.

You cant only moderators can, just make sure you search or do research before posting.

Please read NOOB POSTING GUIDELINES before you keep making useless topics or moderators will give you a vacation till you learn how to post. This topic will help nobody including yourself, this is like the 10th ridiculous topic you made.

If you have to ask then run them at 1750 rms (why do people want to run 3000rms to their xcon, or double the power thats RECOMMENDED BY THE COMPANY to their subwoofer). Just because you see someone doing something does not mean you need to do it. There gonna perform how they should with 1500-1750 rms (what they recommend), give them 3000 rms and see how long it last.