jcarter1885

Who sings that In The Sun song and Subout Song.

C'mon man you know the rules, we need more information (if not please read new member posting rules) so this process can go smoother.

Head Unit Settings Bass Boost/Exend = Off Loud/Loundness = Off Sub Level: + whatever yours goes up to minus a few whatever your preference Bass = 0 or lower, whatever your preference Amp Settings Gain = Set with DMM, no more than 50-60% if you dont have one. LPF = 100Hz or lower whatever your preference Bass Boost = Off SSF = 1-5 Hz lower than box tuning, or until subs start to reach its excursion level. Check out your settings and see what you have wrong (let us know what was set wrong and if its better now).

My Kicker CVX's never made that noise and I have had three different setups and 6 CVX's between the three. There is some other kind of issue. Give us box measurements besides 1 foot by whatever. We need height x width x depth, is your box sealed or ported? Turn the bass boost off period on radio and amplifier.

There are plenty of topics already opened about this, next time use the search feature.

It says it is a class D amp. What's the difference between class d and ab? Like you said, a d will be lees strain on my electrical system, but is that the only difference? My fault I seen the M at the end of the model number so I apologize. If that was the only difference, then that is an important difference (less strain is a good thing on the vehicle and audio system which wil reguire less electrical upgrades and more money being spent). Class D Amplifier: For subwoofer applications, Class D amps are very efficient and their small size offers installation flexibility. Before amplifying an incoming signal, a Class D amp converts the signal to digital. Digital signals can be amplified very efficiently, so you get a lot more power with less current. Less input current reduces power supply size and generates less waste heat, thus reducing the heat sink size. The amp then converts the amplified signal back to analog.

I would personally look into a class D amp to push your subs, will be less strain on your electrical. Just my .02.

Well when you guys buy one dont forget to post a review so I can know which ones to get. Thanks

Read what he wrote above the pictures, those are two different sealed boxes, box between the seats is one box and the box behind the seats is the second box.

That was my first thought of were they could be but it looked like there wsnt any space behind those seats. Impressive!

I will be starting my build log as soon as I get a job, either this month (hopefully) or next month (at the latest) so I want to do everything right any buy the book. I drive a 2003 Saturn Ion with stock alternator for now(depending if I run my sub amp at 1 ohm or 2 ohms) and I have done the Big 2 (Grounds - Engine Block to Frame / 1run and Battery to Frame / 2runs) in Kicker HyperFlex 1/0 AWG. I will be using a Kenwood KDC-X492 (will be upgrading after the build is complete) for head unit with a Epic Center 160 for voltage and bass in older recordings since I listen to a lot of old school music. The subs have not been decided on and the interior speakers have not been decided on yet. I will be running the SAX-125.2 at 2 ohms on both channels and I will be running the SAZ-2000D at either 2 or 1 ohm (if one ohm I will be getting a HO alternator later on down the road once I find one). Question #1: I see people comparing Kicker HyperFlex to KnuKonceptz 1/0 AWG wire and saying Knu wire has more strands and bigger, I have both wire and cant really tell (is it true)? Question #2: Is Welding wire good and how does there 1/0AWG compare to Kicker HyperFlex and KnuKonceptz? Question #3: When is welding wire 2/0, 3/0 or 4/0 AWG wire required for an install? Question #4: My main battery is in the trunk (factory location, I will replace this with a bigger battery). I will be buying two batteries and using them as starting and system battery (either will be 2-80AH's if I use SAZ-2000d at 2ohms or 2-100AH's or more if I use SAZ-2000D at 1 ohm). What size wire should I use between the batteries I was thinking 1/0 AWG Knu wire from battery 1 to battery 2 (or should I use 2/0), 1/0 AWG from battery #2 to distribution block, 1/0 AWG (SAZ-2000D) and 4 AWG (SAE-125.2) to amps. ***To keep this a little clean and uncluttered with guesses, I would like people who have experience in this area and have actually used all three wires (just dont want someone answering just one question please try to give your input on all questions, thats why I want someone experienced otherwise it will turn into people answering just one question and the topic only centered around that answer). Thanks for input and help fellas.***

haha yes you are right but i dont want it to cost me an arm and a leg!! haha the paychecks in high school arent the best! haha Thank You Matt Cusack Well one thing you will learn in life, is when you pay cheap you get what you pay for. Just cause you cant get it right away doesnt mean you shouldnt get it, save up your money to do it right the first time or keep wasting money of things that will work for so long or cause you other problems and more money at the end of the day.

I think you will be fine with the amp unless you wanna go through the hassle of returning it and buying another amp, how much did they have it on presale for?

I wouldnt do it and if I went into a store that had these products I wouldnt want to buy them (the subwoofer say GREAT on it, haha).

After reading all that you wrote, I noticed you said you dont have any electrical upgrades (everything is factory right). I would get another battery / ho alternator or do the big 3, any of these would help.

Where are the other two subs, I only see two in the video unless Im blind?

Well appreciate ya, just looking for a better way to do it then duct tape (even though I know sometimes the cheapest and tackiest measures are the best).

Dont mean to thread jack but I was wondering bout this earlier when I seen Jacob with duct tape on his subwoofer. I was wondering could you just cut your top layer baffle that will make the subs look flushed to maybe a little bit bigger than speaker outer frame and fit it tight so no air will leak or it wont work as good as duct tape or weatherstripping?

Thanks guys I guess I could of done some research first and get a few answers, Kicker Hyperflex 1/0 awg wire has 4,704 strand count (Called Kicker Technical Support and got this answer) and my KnuKonceptz Kolossus Fleks Cable has 5,145 strand count (says on wire jacket and website) which is actually 2/0 awg equivalent. KnuKonceptz has 441 more strands than Kicker Hyperflex wire.

Need more info please and you could of kept this in the other post instead of making a topic for it. It doesnt really matter if there in the same chamber or different ones.Put it in an eclosure that is recommended and choose a tuning for your liking or music preference: under 30Hz - brutal lows 30-35Hz - Daily pounding

I would personally get the D2 version and wire all them in series and then together they will drop to 1.3333 ohms and just use them on 1 amp that is 1 ohm stable, just my .02.

2 SAZ-1000D's strapped will be the best option for you (since you have D2 voice coils).

Be smart and run your equipment they way the owner who makes and tests them says to do (yeah 1 ohms stable amps can be ran below 1 ohms but they may shorten the life of the amp), and for those extra watts which really wont be noticeable maybe barley by the meter and not ear is not worth it plus the extra stress on your amplifier. Get the Dual 2 ohm coils and wire it in parallel:

oh boo hoo Quit your bitchin', most would kill for that situation Ha, yeah I know I'm not in too bad of a situation. I just want 10 lbs danget, 10 lbs. Try eating late at nite, it helped me out in picking up weight anytime I need to. I want muscle weight, not to just gain weight in general. It will just take me some time. Well I do understand that, just work out more and drink some muscle milk (its hard to put on weight doing things the right way but everyone is different). I pick up muscle weight by getting picking up my weight first and then working out harder to make up for the added weight. I do drink about 30-35g of whey protein in milk after lifting. I've heard some people have been able to just add the weight then tone down as you said, but I can't really do that. I play basketball and run too much and I don't want to get out of shape at all for that. So I'm kinda stuck with the slow way I suppose. What running techniques do you have, I havent been able to get back into my running shape like I used to be in highschool when sports were my number one priority. During and after college I have been losing in my effort to get back in shape, I hate to even play basketball because I can barely lasts. Thankx.

oh boo hoo Quit your bitchin', most would kill for that situation Ha, yeah I know I'm not in too bad of a situation. I just want 10 lbs danget, 10 lbs. Try eating late at nite, it helped me out in picking up weight anytime I need to. I want muscle weight, not to just gain weight in general. It will just take me some time. Well I do understand that, just work out more and drink some muscle milk (its hard to put on weight doing things the right way but everyone is different). I pick up muscle weight by getting picking up my weight first and then working out harder to make up for the added weight.